How to resurrect Yamaha FJR1300 that's been parked in my garage for 7 years?

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I have the bike ready for the test start: turn the key on, bike is a neutral, the fuel pump running then stops but I found an issue. The rear wheel doesn't spin. I grabbed the rear wheel when it was on the center stand and it just doesn't move.

I didn't try to start it.

Any ideas? Let me know. Thanks.

I have the bike ready for the test start: turn the key on, bike is a neutral, the fuel pump running then stops but I found an issue. The rear wheel doesn't spin. I grabbed the rear wheel when it was on the center stand and it just doesn't move.

I didn't try to start it.

Any ideas? Let me know. Thanks.
If it were me. Start it up on centerstand. Then stand on rear brake.
I would agree, likely just clutch that needs a soak.
 
In neutral? Likely the clutch plates are a bit stuck and will likely break loose once you attempt to turn it over. You might take the bike off the stand, sit on the seat and rock it forward and back to break them loose. Worst case scenario is you may have to do a clutch soak but I'm betting it won't be needed. (Search clutch soak on this site.)
I had it rolling yesterday. Somethings amiss. I'll check after lunch and after watching the MotoGP race.
 
Tried to start it but no go, now need a new battery. Any recommendations as to where I can get a new battery besides my local mamayama?

Still not sure why the wheel spun yesterday and dosen't today.
 
Lots of places cheaper than the dealer. I still like to go with Yuasa, although not the cheapest option.
For now, I would probably jump start it and worry about the battery later.
 
Tried to start it but no go, now need a new battery. Any recommendations as to where I can get a new battery besides my local mamayama?

Still not sure why the wheel spun yesterday and dosen't today.
O'Reilly will have stuff like the stock lead acid (crap) yuasa battery. Pretty common size power sports battery.
 
Yuasa makes sense. I guess this is a good reason to buy jumper cables.
Just in case you don't know. Do not jump off a running car battery. Car off is the only sorta safe way. Although a car battery is capable of providing enough amps to blow the mc battery up if there is an internal problem.
 
^^^ Yes, car not running. Only time you risk blowing up a battery is if there is a dead short - an uncommon failure mode. On an old tired battery (not just discharged) it shouldn't be a problem. Seems that it has some life since OP mentioned the fuel pump coming on etc. I have a small lithium jump pack I use for this sort of thing. It can provide lots of amps to turn over almost any engine but capacity isn't great if extended cranking is required to overcome a fuel issue such as a flooded condition.
 
^^^ Yes, car not running. Only time you risk blowing up a battery is if there is a dead short - an uncommon failure mode. On an old tired battery (not just discharged) it shouldn't be a problem. Seems that it has some life since OP mentioned the fuel pump coming on etc. I have a small lithium jump pack I use for this sort of thing. It can provide lots of amps to turn over almost any engine but capacity isn't great if extended cranking is required to overcome a fuel issue such as a flooded condition.
He also mentioned leaving it on a trickle charger for 7 years. It is junk
 
O'Reilly will have stuff like the stock lead acid (crap) yuasa battery. Pretty common size power sports battery.
I called O'reilly and they said they had the battery in stock. Got there and it's the wrong size.

None of the cycle gears near me have the battery in stock.

Do you have a battery/supplier you can recommend?
 
I called O'reilly and they said they had the battery in stock. Got there and it's the wrong size.

None of the cycle gears near me have the battery in stock.

Do you have a battery/supplier you can recommend?
Seems odd. Although I use Shorai in everything, O'Reilly here could get a cheap lead acid battery next day. If not where you live then Amazon.
 
Seems odd. Although I use Shorai in everything, O'Reilly here could get a cheap lead acid battery next day. If not where you live then Amazon.
I'm planning to order a Shorai.

I believe I know the reason why the rear wheel won't turn. I overfilled the pumpkin with gear oil using a funnel that perfectly fit into the filling hole and I though the level was good. It sat overnight, probably compressing the oil. I drained out the oil and then set the level to just below the filling hole threads (in the daytime this time) and the rear wheel still won't move.

Anyone heard of this before? Did I screw up big time?
 
Seems unlikely that high oil would cause the wheel to not turn.
1) I would make sure rear brake is not seized
2) Do as Ross suggested, put it on ground and rock it in neutral
3) pull in clutch and see if it moves

No offense, but you seem like you might be a tad over your head mechanically. Maybe someone nearby could help you out?
 
Seems unlikely that high oil would cause the wheel to not turn.
1) I would make sure rear brake is not seized
2) Do as Ross suggested, put it on ground and rock it in neutral
3) pull in clutch and see if it moves

No offense, but you seem like you might be a tad over your head mechanically. Maybe someone nearby could help you out?
I don't think it was high oil, more like way too overfilled using the funnel. The bike is in neutral, it's on the ground and won't rock or move. The only thing that changed is my overfilling the pumpkin.

I never had problems wrenching on my bikes before, but my recent Illness in 2016, when I last rode the bike, has left me a bit scatterbrained.

Any ideas as to why its locked up would be helpful.
 
If not rocking even a little forward or back, I would expect the rear brake is stuck. Did you bleed them or do other maintenance?
 
One more dumb question - how sure are you that it is actually in neutral?
 
I don't think it was high oil, more like way too overfilled using the funnel. The bike is in neutral, it's on the ground and won't rock or move. The only thing that changed is my overfilling the pumpkin.

I never had problems wrenching on my bikes before, but my recent Illness in 2016, when I last rode the bike, has left me a bit scatterbrained.

Any ideas as to why its locked up would be helpful.

When you say the wheel is locked up do you mean it has a little movement forward / backward but not full rotation, or do you mean locked up solid with no movement at all??

First, if a little movement, be sure the transmission is really in neutral, not just the neutral light on. OJ beat me to that one.

Second, if locked up solid, something else did change besides re-filling the punkin. The fill and drain plugs were removed / replaced. Check to be sure the correct plugs are in there with the sealing washers. Maybe loosen them a little to see if the wheel turns. Be sure nothing else made its way into the punkin.


dan
 
When you say the wheel is locked up do you mean it has a little movement forward / backward but not full rotation, or do you mean locked up solid with no movement at all??

First, if a little movement, be sure the transmission is really in neutral, not just the neutral light on. OJ beat me to that one.

Second, if locked up solid, something else did change besides re-filling the punkin. The fill and drain plugs were removed / replaced. Check to be sure the correct plugs are in there with the sealing washers. Maybe loosen them a little to see if the wheel turns. Be sure nothing else made its way into the punkin.


dan
Ooh, I like that. Did you swap the fill and drain plugs? I wonder if the (longer) drain plug contacts the ring gear if you put it in the fill?
Easy check. Remove fill plug and see if wheel spins.
 

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