Electrical question

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Groo

The Endless Font of Useless Knowledge...
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I added an electric liner and gloves last winter, and have enjoyed them to a great extent during the few "cold" days we've had in Houston this year... heh...

Question is, I also installed a heat troller on my fairing panel, which has an indicator LED, letting me know when it's on. The heat troller when not fully on pulses on and off depending on how far I have it cranked. If it's turned up high, the LED is lit most of the time... if it's at middle, the LED is on for a while, then turns off for a while... you get the picture. My question is that when I'm at a stoplight, and there's a car in front of me... if the LED is on, and the electrics are drawing power, should I be able to see my headlights dim in the reflection coming off the car in front of me? They go slightly dim when the heat troller LED comes on, and brighten somewhat when the heat troller LED goes off. Is that normal? I'm not using any aftermarket aux lights, and usually only have my XM receiver, Mixit2, and V1 connected to power (sometimes GPS, but not in town).

So what's the verdict? I probably need to add a Datel to monitor the running Voltage, but haven't gotten around to it. I did just replace my battery (after I started noticing this, haven't ridden since installing with the heated gear on), since it was the original that came with my '05, and seemed to be struggling on occasion to crank the motor... that and I'd start the bike and the clock would be reset once in a while.

I was thinking maybe my stator was getting crispy... luckily I have an Electrosport replacement (with extra oomph) sitting in my garage for the eventual swapout... just don't know if I need to get serious about that upgrade just yet (plus I'm not looking forward to the connector splice/solder on the output wiring).

 
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Your bike is about to explode. Sell it.

Buy a Beemer. Invest in final drive fluid.

Okay, I'm afraid I am not all that helpful this evening. :lol: ;)

 
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Your bike is about to explode. Sell it.
Buy a Beemer. Invest in final drive fluid.

Okay, I'm afraid I am not all that helpful this evening. :lol: ;)
LOL... :lol:

I must really be up the creek if Dale can't answer it...

 
How old is your battery?

I doubt you are overloading your magneto.

It puts out around 590 watts.

Your headlights take about 60 watts each, that means you should have about 470 watts remaining for you other gear.

Unless you are running a bunch of other stuff, you are probably not overloading it.

Add up you total power usage. I already got it started for you.

Hope this helps.

 
not sure if this helps, I use a heated jacket liner (full sleeve) ad heated gloves almost daily this time of year. Turning them on doesn't affect the headlight brightness at idle.

 
Dale is being coy :)

The output of the stator is directly proportional to the engine speed up to 5k rpm. At idle, the output of the stator is very low, and won’t achieve full output power until the magic 5k rpm is reached. You will notice a significant power increase as rpms rise from 1,000 rpm to 3,000 rpm.

Just remember, that no matter what the rpm, when the main voltage drops below 13.2 volts the battery is no longer being charged; when it drops below 12.8 volts the battery is starting to provide ‘make-up’ voltage; but most importantly the stator is being over taxed and over-heated. The stator can take short duration over-load situations but the insulating varnish on the windings will cook a bit darker, be more birttle, and crack more at each instance.

 
How old is your battery?
It was the original until a day and a half ago... I got a replacement YUSA one from UM for a killer price. Like I edited into my first post... haven't ridden with the heated gear turned on since replacing the battery... so I don't know if it's still doing it.

 
How old is your battery?
I doubt you are overloading your magneto.

It puts out around 590 watts.

Your headlights take about 60 watts each, that means you should have about 470 watts remaining for you other gear.
Your information is based on a Gen II bike....not a Gen I which his bike is being a 2005. Gen I alternators are 490 watts and of that a whole bunch more than 60 watts per bulb is being used....in fact only about 120 spare watts are probably available. Watt management is MUCH more important in Gen I bikes.

Groo....spell it with me....D - A - T - E - L. Or use a multimeter temporarily.

Second, I'd look to see how well wired your electric gear is. What gauge wires, distance, and any marginal connections? You pirating off existing wires? Electricals....especially ones we've added....are hard to diagnose.

 
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How old is your battery?
It was the original until a day and a half ago... I got a replacement YUSA one from UM for a killer price. Like I edited into my first post... haven't ridden with the heated gear turned on since replacing the battery... so I don't know if it's still doing it.
Then, should you notice the same result, try raising the rpms and see if the "flickering" stops. That would mean that your alternator is working correctly when the rpms are high enough to provide enough replacement amperage/voltage.

 
Holy shit! Cluster fluster of nearly same time posts! If only we had a time stamp to show the sequence ;) :lol:

 
Groo....spell it with me....D - A - T - E - L. Or use a multimeter temporarily.
I know, I know... and I have a birthday coming up too!!! Now, should I go with Red or Blue digits.... hmmmmm...

Second, I'd look to see how well wired your electric gear is. What gauge wires, distance, and any marginal connections? You pirating off existing wires? Electricals....especially ones we've added....are hard to diagnose.
I had some electrical "oddities" happening last year, that I believe I traced back to a funky connection on my circuit activation switch (that was using the windshield autoretract for activation) a month or so ago. All the electrics go through my Centech under the seat... which I've checked for loose, broken, or generally messed up wiring just recently. All wire gauges are either the ones provided with the units, or well sized for the application (I tend to err on the cautious side).

Probably will wind up with the Datel and diagnose from there... allthough MM2s idea is worth a shot... and will add another data point....

 
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Dale is being coy :)
The output of the stator is directly proportional to the engine speed up to 5k rpm. At idle, the output of the stator is very low, and won't achieve full output power until the magic 5k rpm is reached. You will notice a significant power increase as rpms rise from 1,000 rpm to 3,000 rpm.

Just remember, that no matter what the rpm, when the main voltage drops below 13.2 volts the battery is no longer being charged; when it drops below 12.8 volts the battery is starting to provide 'make-up' voltage; but most importantly the stator is being over taxed and over-heated. The stator can take short duration over-load situations but the insulating varnish on the windings will cook a bit darker, be more birttle, and crack more at each instance.
Reading these posts, i was just thinking it would be handy to have a gyzmo that you could connect either in in series or controlling the relay (if applicable) with the high-demend, not critical gear like heated clothing that could temporarily cut the power off when the rpms are below say 1500 or the voltage at the Batt drops below 12.8 for more then a say minute.

Does anyone know if such a gizmo exists?

 
Reading these posts, i was just thinking it would be handy to have a gyzmo that you could connect either in in series or controlling the relay (if applicable) with the high-demend, not critical gear like heated clothing that could temporarily cut the power off when the rpms are below say 1500 or the voltage at the Batt drops below 12.8 for more then a say minute.Does anyone know if such a gizmo exists?
Should be able to fabricate one using a zener diode, a couple resistors and a 100 mfd capacitor, with the BlueSea or whatever control relay. A potentiometer to trim the shutoff voltage level that causes the relay to "drop out" for a minute.

Groo

Buy a Escort 8500 RD with blue display. Set the display to Voltage.

:)

 
Well, it's a good thing you don't have an a/c unit installed on the scoot, groo. That would really put that little city of lights on yer scoot in the dark ages. Where was that link someone posted aboot the scoot trailer with a generator on it?

 
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