bags locks

I use my bags 5% of the time if that . I needed to carry some stuff last week when i got back home i went to put the key in the lock and the whole lock came out with the key .The 2 screws came off lucky they were sitting under the lock .I suggest checking you locks you will need a small hex screw driver i used crazy glue before i screw them in .

Superglue has absolutely no sheer strength, only tensile, you'd do better with blue Loc-tite.

+1 on that superglue. Putting superglue on a screw wont really do much. In fact, in many racing applications, the techs superglue the lug nuts to the wheels, so then when the car pulls into the pit, no one has to fumble with the lug nuts for the new wheels. Toss 'em on, the slightest tap with the impact and that superglue is gone. But if you try to pull the lug nut off the wheel instead of trying to twist on it, the glue has some strength...

Of course, on the other hand, if those screws had been tightened properly in the first place, I seriously doubt they would have backed out all. But the use of loc-tite is cheap insurance against losing the screw/lock assembly out on the road!

chrisflock said:

Of course, on the other hand, if those screws had been tightened properly in the first place, I seriously doubt they would have backed out all. But the use of loc-tite is cheap insurance against losing the screw/lock assembly out on the road!

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Au contrere, mon ami! There is a history of empirical evidence to support the fact that the lock screws DO back out (from vibration, or...???). That's why the FAQ section points out to check them and add blue loctite if the dealer hasn't done so. IIRC, the instructions for installing the locks suggest using thread locker.

Another good to know item for a new owner. I use my bags all the time. Thanks for the heads-up.

madmike2 said:

chrisflock said:

Of course, on the other hand, if those screws had been tightened properly in the first place, I seriously doubt they would have backed out all. But the use of loc-tite is cheap insurance against losing the screw/lock assembly out on the road!

Click to expand...

Au contrere, mon ami! There is a history of empirical evidence to support the fact that the lock screws DO back out (from vibration, or...???). That's why the FAQ section points out to check them and add blue loctite if the dealer hasn't done so. IIRC, the instructions for installing the locks suggest using thread locker.

Click to expand...

I understand the lock screws DO back out, but I said tightened properly, which includes the white loc-tite like substance that the factory uses on some bolts (apparently it's application to screws/bolts is somewhat haphazard?)

I think this is similar to the large nut on the triple tree backing off. It's 'tight' from the factory but backs off from vibration and whatnot, but if it was properly tightened, as it apparently has been on most of the bikes, it won't come loose from vibration.

chrisflock said:

I understand the lock screws DO back out, but I said tightened properly, which includes the white loc-tite like substance that the factory uses on some bolts (apparently it's application to screws/bolts is somewhat haphazard?

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"Some" being the key word here. The allen head screws/bolts that secure the locking mechanism to the side case are not treated with any locking compound. That's why they are to be installed with blue loctite.

Some (there's that word again) dealers omit this step and the customer pays the price when the lock fails to keep the side case secure and it practices it's own ejection technique.

That's why it was one of the first items in the FAQ section...from the beginning.

madmike2 said:

chrisflock said:

I understand the lock screws DO back out, but I said tightened properly, which includes the white loc-tite like substance that the factory uses on some bolts (apparently it's application to screws/bolts is somewhat haphazard?

Click to expand...

"Some" being the key word here. The allen head screws/bolts that secure the locking mechanism to the side case are not treated with any locking compound. That's why they are to be installed with blue loctite.

Some (there's that word again) dealers omit this step and the customer pays the price when the lock fails to keep the side case secure and it practices it's own ejection technique.

That's why it was one of the first items in the FAQ section...from the beginning.

Click to expand...

Is it just me, or has anyone else noticed that most of the 'loose' bolt complaints seem to center around bolts that the dealer has to install? I had loose bolts on my brake caliper and the large nut on top of the triple clamp when I took my bike in for an early 500 mile checkup (about 150 miles) because I noticed that the front brakes were clunking and the nut on the triple tree was loose. I didn't have a big enough socket at home to use my torque wrench tighten that nut up, so I just used an adjustable wrench to get it tighter than I figured it was when I got the bike...

Anyway, the dealer I took it in to for that checkup wasn't the one I purchased the bike from, and they said they went over all the bolts that the dealer has to put on when they uncrate the bike, and he said about half of those were well below spec, and they checked a few other bolts that were accessible, they were all in spec.

So I suppose my comment about the loc-tite from the factory being haphazard is mis-aimed, its inattentive assembly/set up at the dealers that is the issue...

And by the way, when I took my bike in, for the brake clunk, one of the guys gave it a quick look, took off for a test drive. He drove out of the parking lot, and hauled on the front brakes...one of the loose bolts on the caliper popped off.

chrisflock said:

Is it just me, or has anyone else noticed that most of the 'loose' bolt complaints seem to center around bolts that the dealer has to install?
<major snippage>

So I suppose my comment about the loc-tite from the factory being haphazard is mis-aimed, its inattentive assembly/set up at the dealers that is the issue...

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Yes, sir, you are correct-a-mundo! That's why there is a comprehensive, though not exhaustive, list of things to "double-check" when accepting ownership of your new FJR from the dealer.

In the '06-'08 Bin-O-Facts

Copied here, for your reading enjoyment:

New Purchaser ChecklistEither personally double-check or ask the dealer specifically the following things before taking acceptance of the a new FJR:

* Are the saddlebag lock latch screws loctited? (validated this is still an issue with '07's, and:Security Torx Bit Link Clicky )

* Did you get theThird lock with bike in case you get a Yamaha top box?

* Are the Saddlebag body color caps included?

* Is the Toolkit under seat?

* Are the steering head bearings torqued? Many '05 were loose from the factory.

* Are the Mirrors tight? More than finger tightened. Consider changing to nylocs yourself when convenient. Or, alternatively, a tip from otrfjr: use 2 layers of teflon tape (the kind plumbers use & is $1 per roll) around the bolt. otrfjr found that this worked even better than the rubber washers on the mirrors.

* Point out any/all scratches

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