New tire = new & improved handling

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Fred W

1 Wheel Drive
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Hey, I know I've where read people mentioned experiencing this phenomenon before, but I really can't figure out exactly how slapping on a new front tire transforms the handling so drastically. However, I am pleased as punch that it did. This is just by replacing the old worn out Pirelli Diablo Strada with an new copy of the same. Yes, the old one was completey shot, having given his all for me(I got over 8k miles).

On the old tire I had to keep a steady push on the bars while negotiating any turn, especially noticeable in long sweepers. With the new tire everything feels more balanced. After initiating a turn almost no bar input is required to keep the bike tracking on line. I'm sure this is a case of the effect having appeared so gradually that you don't notice it day by day. But then you put on the new sneaker and Voila!

The old tire, though worn, did not have a severe "V" shape, though there is a small amount of ridge on each side between the flat center and the sides. I'm guessing that this ridge is the culprit to the bad handling, but I can't visualize how this causes the bike to want to stand up and fly straight, thereby requiring the continual bar input.

As an aside, I found that by balancing the bare wheel first, experimentally finding the real "heavy spot" (per this website), then aligning the tire's dot marks to the wheel's heavy spot, I did not (technically) need any wheel weights. That is to say, the lightest spot was off by less than a 1/4 oz wheel weight. Of course, being the anal retentive with too much time on my hands, I went ahead and balanced the wheel to a gnat's ass, finally requiring only a cutoff piece of weight amounting to less than 1/8 oz (about 3 grams). I'm sure if that piece falls off I would not be able to feel it.

 
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I think you most likely had a worn tire where the center was flat rather than V shaped so the new tire and rubber fixed all that.

But, you are correct, a new set of shoes on the old hoss will make it perk right up and handle like a dream again.

I just replace the severely center-flatted rear tire on my FJR and it handles great again.

 
"As an aside, I found that by balancing the bare wheel first, experimentally finding the real "heavy spot" (per this website), then aligning the tire's dot marks to the wheel's heavy spot, I did not (technically) need any wheel weights. That is to say, the lightest spot was off by less than a 1/4 oz wheel weight. Of course, being the anal retentive with too much time on my hands, I went ahead and balanced the wheel to a gnat's ass, finally requiring only a cutoff piece of weight amounting to less than 1/8 oz (about 3 grams). I'm sure if that piece falls off I would not be able to feel it.

"

I'm not sure why, but getting a tire mounted without needing weights really makes my day :yahoo:

 
"As an aside, I found that by balancing the bare wheel first, experimentally finding the real "heavy spot" (per this website), then aligning the tire's dot marks to the wheel's heavy spot, I did not (technically) need any wheel weights. That is to say, the lightest spot was off by less than a 1/4 oz wheel weight. Of course, being the anal retentive with too much time on my hands, I went ahead and balanced the wheel to a gnat's ass, finally requiring only a cutoff piece of weight amounting to less than 1/8 oz (about 3 grams). I'm sure if that piece falls off I would not be able to feel it."

I'm not sure why, but getting a tire mounted without needing weights really makes my day :yahoo:
Yeah, me too. I guess it says two things and both of them are good: One, the tire was made well and doesn't have much of any mis-balance. And, two, the little bit of extra attention to get the misbalances aligned paid off.

 
I found that by balancing the bare wheel first, experimentally finding the real "heavy spot" then aligning the tire's dot marks to the wheel's heavy spot, I did not (technically) need any wheel weights.
Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the dot on the tire was the heavy or high spot on the tire, which in turn should be mounted 180 degrees out from the heavy spot on the rim....

Do I have that wrong?

EDIT:

Copied from TireRack's web site.

"Original Equipment (OE) tire suppliers are required to mark the tire's "high point" while OE wheel manufacturers mark the wheel's "low point." This helps the vehicle manufacturer match mount combinations that maximize new car ride quality while reducing the amount of balancing weight."

Can somebody apply this to motorcycle tires and how we "Match Mount"?

 
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I just hit 11K on the oem tires. Thinking about getting those dual compound tires. Dunlaps I think. I do so many miles back and forth to work I need something that's going to last extra long. I'll have to research it a bit.

 
I found that by balancing the bare wheel first, experimentally finding the real "heavy spot" then aligning the tire's dot marks to the wheel's heavy spot, I did not (technically) need any wheel weights.
Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the dot on the tire was the heavy or high spot on the tire, which in turn should be mounted 180 degrees out from the heavy spot on the rim....

Do I have that wrong?

EDIT:

Copied from TireRack's web site.

"Original Equipment (OE) tire suppliers are required to mark the tire's "high point" while OE wheel manufacturers mark the wheel's "low point." This helps the vehicle manufacturer match mount combinations that maximize new car ride quality while reducing the amount of balancing weight."

Can somebody apply this to motorcycle tires and how we "Match Mount"?
Dots are most often to mark the lightest spot, to be aligned with the valve stem, on the assumption that the stem is the heavy spot on the wheel. Refer to step 6 on this website. But even according to Dunlop this practice is not universal. For example, my front wheel is NOT heaviest at the valve stem. It was about 70 degrees to one side of the stem. And as you say some tire manufacturers may mark the heavy spot, or not at all (Avon).

That's where the truly anal retentive home tire mounter / balancer can do better:

Once you have balanced the bare wheel and temporarily affixed the appropriate weight to balance, mount the tire on at whatever orientation you believe to be correct. You can try looking on the tire manufacturer's website for a clue as to what their marks mean.

Before you remove the temporary weight you can put the mounted tire on the balancer and see for yourself where the heavy spot on the tire is since the wheel is still balanced, any mis-balance will be attributable only to the tire. Then, without dismounting the tire you can rotate the tire on the wheel to ensure the tire's heavy spot is aligned with the temporary weights (wheel's light spot). Then, remove the temporary weights and doing the final balance with the least possible added weight.

 
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It occasionally happens that a tire is just not round! Put bike on centre stand spin back tire and watch how much it goes in and out. My last new Avons had a runout of about 1/4". Then get your wife to sit on the back and do the same on the front. You can do this with any tire. Balancing does not fix this. technacally, you can balance a hammer, but you won't get very far!

 
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