Engine Removal Progressing

My engine removal progress is going quite well. I did most of what I could before getting the service manual today, and did a bit more.

I am having to remove the left foot peg panel and there is a large Torx screw I don't have. Anyone know what size it is (maybe a 50?) so I can pick one up on my way home from work tomorrow? Here's a picture of it and my current progress (if you have any helpful hints, I'd appreciate the input):

Click Image to Enlarge

Good guess. It is indeed a T-50. I just went out to the garage to verify.

Sweet, thanks. I have a T-40, so it was an educated guess.

Still sorry to see you have to do this, Scott.

BTW - While you have the engine out is the time to replace the clutch line with a new one. This also makes it a whole lot easier to open the electrical connectors and apply dielectric grease to the pins.

Bob

Checkswrecks said:

Still sorry to see you have to do this, Scott. BTW - While you have the engine out is the time to replace the clutch line with a new one. This also makes it a whole lot easier to open the electrical connectors and apply dielectric grease to the pins.

Bob

Click to expand...

What pins?

What pins?

Click to expand...

[guess] Pins in connectors located in main signal connectors that reside in the vicinity of the middle Tee Bar bolt hole. As you dig down between the cylinder head cover and the frame you will see the connectors. Some people have found the pins that carry higher currents through these connectors have started to corrode. By cleaning these pins and packing with dielectric grease mysterious electrical gremlins were cured.[/guess]

checkswrecks is an advocate of dielectric grease for preventative maintenance.

Oh, those pins!

That and I've also noticed several bolts that have some serious corrosion on them as well.

ponyfool said:

My engine removal progress is going quite well. I did most of what I could before getting the service manual today, and did a bit more.
I am having to remove the left foot peg panel and there is a large Torx screw I don't have. Anyone know what size it is (maybe a 50?) so I can pick one up on my way home from work tomorrow? Here's a picture of it and my current progress (if you have any helpful hints, I'd appreciate the input):

Click Image to Enlarge

Click to expand...

Scott, I probably missed something earlier but inquiring minds want to know...WHY ARE YOU REMOVING THE ENGINE????????????Motorcycle-Ed

He blew his tranny. The tranny was happy about it, though.

my back hurts just looking at all that.

would a motorcycle lift make it any easier? sorry, don't have one to loan you, jus wunderin...

twowheelnut said:

He blew his tranny. The tranny was happy about it, though.

Click to expand...

That also explains why the bike is so exceptionally clean.............. :huh:

I am removing it because I apparently have a bent shift fork and/or worn engagement dogs. Here is the previous thread

The part that bugs me the most is, this is a 2 year old bike with only 12,000 miles on it. Everything is still in like new condition.

Oh well. I'm learning a lot in this process. If I am successful, I won't be intimidated by having to do this kind of work in the future.

That is a tough situation. Since I also have a 2006 (but an AE model), now with 8k miles on it bought 2 months ago, I would sure hate to know I had this repair in front of me.

Motorcycle-Ed :angry:

Seeing as how you appear to be pretty close to the engine dropping from the frame, do you have a plan of action for lowering it once you get all the mounting bolts out? Is the bottom of the engine flat enough to use some form of floor jack/racing jack?

chrisflock said:

Seeing as how you appear to be pretty close to the engine dropping from the frame, do you have a plan of action for lowering it once you get all the mounting bolts out? Is the bottom of the engine flat enough to use some form of floor jack/racing jack?

Click to expand...

Yes, I have a pretty good hydraulic floor jack and the bottom is flat enough. However, it will only be on the jack long enough to get it out from under the bike. After that, it's going on a bench.

My biggest concern now is timeliness. If it takes more than 4 weeks for the parts, I could be in a lot of trouble as far as NAFO is concerned.

ionbeam said:

What pins?

Click to expand...

[guess] Pins in connectors located in main signal connectors that reside in the vicinity of the middle Tee Bar bolt hole. As you dig down between the cylinder head cover and the frame you will see the connectors. Some people have found the pins that carry higher currents through these connectors have started to corrode. By cleaning these pins and packing with dielectric grease mysterious electrical gremlins were cured.[/guess]

checkswrecks is an advocate of dielectric grease for preventative maintenance.

Click to expand...

Ion, you're right that I use the dielectric in the connectors, but if you have a better way to prevent corrosion in there, I'm sure willing to listen!

Good luck Scott. I've got my fingers crossed you'll get that thing buttoned up by NAFO.

Keep us posted on your progress and think happy thoughts!!!

Burk

ponyfool said:

chrisflock said:

Seeing as how you appear to be pretty close to the engine dropping from the frame, do you have a plan of action for lowering it once you get all the mounting bolts out? Is the bottom of the engine flat enough to use some form of floor jack/racing jack?

Click to expand...

Yes, I have a pretty good hydraulic floor jack and the bottom is flat enough. However, it will only be on the jack long enough to get it out from under the bike. After that, it's going on a bench.

My biggest concern now is timeliness. If it takes more than 4 weeks for the parts, I could be in a lot of trouble as far as NAFO is concerned.

Click to expand...

Here's a little trick that might work for you. Put the jack towards the front of the motor for support. Remove all the engine mounts/bolts except for the rear bottom bolt (just loosen it). Have a friend help you rotate the engine down till it contacts the floor/lift. then you can easily remove the remaining rear bolt and slide the engine out. Might even be able to guide the universal off the splines and back on this way also. I've never done a FJR (yet), but it should work on it too! Might be something I'm not seeing though. Done many yamahas/Kawi's/Suz. like this. Pretty easy to do.

twowheelnut said:

He blew his tranny. The tranny was happy about it, though.

Click to expand...

I guess that is better than blowing a seal! Fencer says the flippers keep hitting him in the face.