Impending ignition switch failure or not?

This morning made about the fourth or fifth time that my ignition switch failed in 46,000 miles (16 months). It seems to happen when the bike has been sitting outdoors in cool (70F or below) temps and exposed to moisture. Flip the key on, instruments bump on and die. Push on the key and maybe they react, maybe not. Keep flipping the key back and forth with appreciable force and eventually the contacts close and you get power.

But this morning it took almost a full minute of flipping and jiggling to get the thing working. Once it made contact, bike started and zero problems all day long.

So does this sound like what happened to you guys BEFORE you had total switch failure?

I have a big trip coming up in exactly two weeks. Should I scramble to replace the switch now, or just focus on somehow cleaning the contacts?

Inquiring minds want to know!

Jeff,

Sounds like the switch might have a cold solider joint or has some moisture in it causing the contacts to spread apart, opening the circuit. If it happens again, get a hair dryer and heat the switch with it and see if it helps, if so then it might be what I said above. In any case call the dealer and let him know that you're having the problem and to get a switch on order. I don't have time to search the forum but this problem has been an issue. As far as your trip is concerned, I get a new switch ASAP or learn how to hot wire the ignition (it is in that same thread).

Jay

Mine had similar symptoms. I took the switch out and drilled the screws out and found a very simple switch that was full of crap. I cleaned it up and filled it with dielectric grease and reassembled. Its been fine for almost a year now. I did make provisions for a quick hot wire while it was apart.

Feeling desperate and uneasy about the whole switch thing, last night I decided to spray some ether in the weep hole and used compressed air from above to quickly blow it through. I placed a clean white shop towel underneath to catch what came out.

You would be amazed at how much gunk and debris exited that weep hole in three or four cleaning passes! Of particular concern to me was the size and amount of plating fragments from the ignition keys themselves. Most fragments were silver (plating material), but many were tiny flakes of the brass itself.

I wound up "flushing" the entire switch with repeated passes of ether, compressed air, WD-40 and compressed air again. It seems to me that mileage is as much a factor as time. After all, my 2007 is barely 16-months old, but has appreciable mileage at 46,000. Perhaps it's plausible that the weep hole is doing more than weeping, and that gunk may be accumulating upward into the weep hole? Perhaps there is enough of an air flow dynamics change in Gen-II to cause such an issue? Just sayin...

In any case, the switch has regained its discernible "click" that it originally had and I THINK I feel better about its operation and reliability. I'm going in search of a good contact cleaner to use for the next cleaning session. Old-fashioned tuner cleaner that's safe for plastics is almost impossible to find nowadays.

Uh-oh! You shouldn't have messed with it!

You just flushed out whatever good karma that switch had left!!!

You're screwed.

Just the way mine did (does). Flushed with contad cleaner and follower with Lock-ease. Problem persits at random but has not left me stranded or failed while underway. I for one am living with it.

Based on my experience I'd say its just dirty contacts because the wire thing had no intermitant warning in my case, good on second and dead the next. You can check the wires though without dismantling the switch and everything, turn the key on and start it if you like. Then reach down to the wire bundle going into the bottom of the switch, if the solder joints are getting weak you'll know. Just tug on the wires. If you can duplicate your problem by juggling them I would get ready to replace the switch. Or resolder it like I did. If nothing happens when you pull on the wires, the you got junk in side of the switch and that is the source.

Jeff,

There is most defiantly a positive air flow coming up from the triple tree/radiator and into the bottom of that ignition switch! Watch out on using WD-40 in an electrical switch environment, two things happen; WD-40 eats up plastic/nylon parts and WD-40 will conduct electricity. If you have a good electronics repair shop/supply around (might need to head down into Wilmington) there are several good electrical contact cleaners on the market. But believe it or not, the Radio Shack Contact/Control Cleaner & Lubricant (pt# 64-4315) is pretty darn good stuff. Cleans, lubricates, drives out and prevents moisture. It's pricey though, last can I got was $9.95, ouch!

Jay

Does she or doesn't she...

'07 A w/7K odo

heated grips and horn on thier own relays

End of longest ride to date, @ 400 mi w/pillion and full bags

Raining for about 2 hours...hot/humid...stop/go traffic for about 2 hours....lovely...

Stopped to call the dog kennel....we're a little late...

try to re-start. System bumps, then nothing.

Fiddle with the key, powers up, cranks and cranks, no start.

Fiddle some more, key half cocked, power, starts, I'm outta there.

Tried to recreate this today, and everything seems kosher. Wife says don't bother, replace it immediately. Since we are in a foriegn country, and never ride unless it's out to bumf*ck egypt, I don't want to risk it.

Jeff: I believe that you are on to something with the "dirtyness" of the ignition switch. I have noticed this for some time, that the thing seems to be a dirt magnet. Not that I am anal about keeping the bike clean, but it is amazing that the just about the dirtiest spot on the thing is the spot where the key goes in...WTF???

Violione said:

Jeff,...But believe it or not, the Radio Shack Contact/Control Cleaner & Lubricant (pt# 64-4315) is pretty darn good stuff. Cleans, lubricates, drives out and prevents moisture. It's pricey though, last can I got was $9.95, ouch!...

Click to expand...

Never, ever let the RS contact cleaner even get near the black plastic of the dash panels, it will permanently turn the panels a gray-white where ever the mist or droplets touch!!!! Mask the area completely before using and use extra diligence.

ionbeam said:

Never, ever let the RS contact cleaner even get near the black plastic of the dash panels, it will permanently turn the panels a gray-white where ever the mist or droplets touch!!!! Mask the area completely before using and use extra diligence.

Click to expand...

Thanks Alan. I've been laying a light rug over the instrument panel before spraying anything like contact cleaner or solvents of any kind. I will add that covering your Zumo is also necessary. Don't ask how I know.

I've had one occasion when I turned the key, the instruments responded as usual, the engined turned over, but didn't start. I turned the key off and back on and the engine started ( it was 1am and raining hard).

I cleaned the switch with "CRC QD Electronic Cleaner" ( available at auto parts stores) and haven't had the problem since. I carry the recommended repair items and instructions from the forum with me , just in case.

Has anyone used "Du Pont Teflon Multi_Use Dry Wax Lubricant" in the switch or know of any reason I shouldn't?

Thx