Error Code. 12

Dunno what happened. All of a sudden i got code twelve. bike wont start. I looked in the FSM and code twelve is the crankshaft postion sensor. Anyone run accross this yet. I'm assuming it's the do hickey near the oil drain plug. there is some kind of sensor there. It's an '07 AE. least it happened in the garage, and not at work.

So how do I get rid of the error code. I went in to Diag mode. And tried d-62 to erase the code, but i cant shake it. I never used the diagnostic screen before today. so I'm a little un familliar with it. I looked in the bin-o-facts, which is where i got the procedure to enter the diag screen and try to clear the code. So I am assuming since I can't clear the code, I must really have a bad sensor. After I replace it will the code dis-appear, or do I have to clear it myself?

Anyone replaced one of these sensors? Before I order it is there anything else I should check.?

I'll appreciate any help here..... Little stumped on it cuz I've never heard of any problems with this little guy, so i'm thinking there might be something else here.

lemmy know.....

The Crank Shaft Position Sensor (CSPS) is installed in the lower right side, near the front of the engine. The sensor is actually under the timing cover (the timing cover has a big ol' honkin' slot head screw), the wires exit from the front of the cover through a rubber grommet. The wire snakes up and over the top of the engine, goes through a two wire connector then directly to the ECU. The wires are Gray & Black/Blue. The sensor should measure 420 to 570 ohms. The error code will automatically go away the next time the ECU receives a valid signal from the sensor. FWIW, the sensor works like an ABS wheel sensor -- every time a tooth of a gear goes past the sensor a voltage spike is generated which the ECU reads.

Been doing any work under the tank?

Not lately, Alan would you mind if I phone you?

Chris

Ionbeam was nice enough to spend about 45 minutes with me on the phone and give me a few things to check. When I get home later(had to work tonight) I will check it out and post my findings with pics. We are leaning toward a cut or chaffed wire between the sensor and the ecu. Or some corrosion at the connector plug in between them. Ill let you all know when I figure it out.

The FSM lists the possible causes for code 12 as:

Faulty ECU

Faulty crankshaft position sensor

Open or short circuit in wire harness

Malfunction in pickup rotor

Improperly installed crankshaft position sensor.

So ill be turning a few wrench's later around 2 AM to figure this thing out.

I know I won't be able to sleep if my feejer needs help so I'm not going to try.

Update on my post 4 wks ago on a code 12(different problem from yours) It ran poorly 3 different times at 35-40 mph in traffic, for maybe 200-300 feet with the red abs and check engine light on. Then it ran fine???? After the third time, when I returned home, I learned how to pull a code, which was a 12. I did an ohm check from the computer harness through the crank sensor, which was around 500 ohms and to ground was open. Good so far. In #62 diag., I cleared the code with the kill switch. Since the last post, I drove it another week before it ran crappy again for a good distance with the abs and check engine light on. I tried pulling a code this time and there was none, which leads me to wonder if the code 12 was stored along time ago and had nothing to do with this problem?

However, this time I pulled the right side engine cover off to inspect the trigger wheel, which was fine. I also boiled the sensor in water while doing the ohmmeter test to see if it would go open with heat. Tested fine. I inspected the wires as best I could. The connector for the crank sensor is below the throttles, making it difficult to get to. I have heard some bad stories about the E10 ethanol gas we are starting to use here, so I added Seafoam gas treatment. I also raised the idle speed to 1100 rpm I have put about 400 miles on locally in the last two wks without a glich???

Stay tune? I am leaving after the July 4th for SD, WY, CO before visiting family in Wisconsin, so I hope its not a problem!!!!.

Code 12. I didn't get much time last night to disassemble a lot of shit, just enough to see that the plug in connector is hard to get to. I think I will check it at the ECU like you did. I did see in the wiring diagram that the blue/black wire goes to "coupler 3" which is item# 32 in the diagram on page 8-62. So as best I can tell, if I unplug the connector at the ecu and check the resistance value there, then the coupler#32 resistance value will be included in the number. In the diagram on page 8-61 item #43 is the crank position sensor. You can follow the wires and see that the gray goes straight to the ECU; BUT the b/l wire is tied into coupler 32. So I am hoping that there is a connection issue there, rather than the connector that is burried under the air box.. Here's another question: on page 8-227 "checking the crank position sensor" it shows it as black and gray; but in the wiring diagram on page 8-61 it shows the colors as gray and black at the sensor then changes to gray and black/blue. So now I'm not sure if the plug I was looking at last night is even the right one. The wires looked like they were white and black.???If someone with a FSM could refer to the pages I indicated, and give me their thoughts I would be forever in your debt.

Code 12 revisited:

Well everything is disassembled, no corrosion on the connector for the crankshaft position sensor. The portion of the harness between the ECU and the plug ohms out fine. The sensor on the other hand does not.

The value is supposed to be between 4 something and 520 ohms. I am getting .435 ohms. And yes I double and tripple checked the range setting on my meter. I guess the sensor is fried. I'm goin to look for a new one.

Is U-Motors still an option. I remember reading about the deterioration of the situation there. Edit: I just read in the dealer vendor section didn't see any negitives on u-motors. I don't remember where I saw the comment so nevermind. What I said before. I need a good dealer to find me one or have it in stock. Doubt it but ill try.

On the upside I can get to the throttle return spring s little easier to give it the un-windification... Silver lining right?!?

Maybe see if I can get my ECU swapped on the re-call while its out too.

With a resistance value that low, less than 1 ohm, the wires are likely shorted somewhere between the sensor and the disconnect plug. Don't know if the wiring is exposed to physical damage behind the fairing?

If your resistance reading for the sensor is virtually the same as when you touch your meter leads together you either have a harness problem or a defective sensor. But for the decimal place it is suspicious that your ohm reading is within the correct range for the CSPS.

To change the sensor you are going to have to access the inaccessible to unplug the sensor. You might as well do that now and pull the wire out, this will give you a chance to inspect the wire for pinch, crush and chafe damage just in case before ordering a new part.

Unless you have some really good goo to seal the rubber grommet that the sensor wires run through exiting the timing cover you may want to order some Yamaha FSM specified sealant.

You can try Ron Ayres for parts.

I have it all apart already. I checked the wires all the way to the sensor(outside the grommet) I stripped the protective coating off because I thought the same thing about a short. No short unless its inside the cover. The wires look funky though, like they've been overheated. The wire coating isn't smooth and shiny like it should be, its dull color and the insulation has a texture to it. Also they are supposed to be gray, and black(they change to gray and blue/black after the plug) but the colors are gray and white?!? Like black faded to gray and gray faded to white from heat? I don't know, but the wires don't look right to me. I know I have the right ones so that's not the issue.

Apparantly my friend Doug told me he looked on a R1/R6 forum and the crankshaft position sensor is a common issue on them. Wonder if I got one of those in my feejer, ya know because of the color difference. Doubt it but can't rule it out until I see a new one and see the colors on those wires.

At any rate the hunt is on for a new CPS from somewhere. Hopefully a large dealer will have one?!?.

Sounds like the sensor shorted out and melted some wires. You may have a bit more work to do then just change a sensor......

Yeah maybe...

Originally I was chasing a crankshaft position sensor, as that is what is tied to code 12 in the FSM. After fully disassembling the bike to get to the connector plug, and testing the resistance of the sensor, I found that the 2 am test I did while frustrated with the problem was a mistake.

What I mean is I read the meter wrong! It gave me a resistance value of .493 ohms(I thought). What it in fact said was .493K ohms. Which is 493 ohms. Dummy. Oh well.

Problem is... Why am I getting that error code then?

After methodically taking every plug apart in the harness looking for some sign of corrosion or a loose connection, I unplugged the plug on the right side of the rectifier (3 white wires) that plug was shiny new and clean. The second plug on the rectifier is on the left side of the unit(black wire and red wire) I unplugged it and water poured out. I mean it way watterlogged! Don't think it was loose or unseated to start with but it was definitely not water tight.?!

Blew it out with compressed air, sprayed it with contact cleaner, and brushed it clean.

I wasn't sure at this point if I wanted to put the whole bike back together not knowing if this was the only problem but there was only one way to find out.

I went ahead and re-installed the airbox, the gas tank, and the tool test under the seat so I could connect the MCU, ECU, and the rest of the harness related stuff.

I also tested the battery at this point, because I figured I wasn't getting good charging because of the water in the rectifier, the battery had 12.3 volts with no load on it so I let it sit with the battery tender over night.

In the morning I crossed my finger and tried starting it. It fired right up and ran fine.

Moral to the story; don't immediately trust the error code diagnosis in the FSM. It wasn't totally useless but I did a whole lot of un-necessary work.

Check those plugs on yours, they also may not be properly seated. I'm going to keep an eye on mine from now on.

Thanks to Ionbeam once again for time spent with me in solving this problem.

DailyCommuter said:

Originally I was chasing a crankshaft position sensor, as that is what is tied to code 12 in the FSM. After fully disassembling the bike to get to the connector plug, and testing the resistance of the sensor, I found that the 2 am test I did while frustrated with the problem was a mistake. What I mean is I read the meter wrong! It gave me a resistance value of .493 ohms(I thought). What it in fact said was .493K ohms. Which is 493 ohms. Dummy. Oh well.

Problem is... Why am I getting that error code then?

After methodically taking every plug apart in the harness looking for some sign of corrosion or a loose connection, I unplugged the plug on the right side of the rectifier (3 white wires) that plug was shiny new and clean. The second plug on the rectifier is on the left side of the unit(black wire and red wire) I unplugged it and water poured out. I mean it way watterlogged! Don't think it was loose or unseated to start with but it was definitely not water tight.?!

Blew it out with compressed air, sprayed it with contact cleaner, and brushed it clean.

I wasn't sure at this point if I wanted to put the whole bike back together not knowing if this was the only problem but there was only one way to find out.

I went ahead and re-installed the airbox, the gas tank, and the tool test under the seat so I could connect the MCU, ECU, and the rest of the harness related stuff.

I also tested the battery at this point, because I figured I wasn't getting good charging because of the water in the rectifier, the battery had 12.3 volts with no load on it so I let it sit with the battery tender over night.

In the morning I crossed my finger and tried starting it. It fired right up and ran fine.

Moral to the story; don't immediately trust the error code diagnosis in the FSM. It wasn't totally useless but I did a whole lot of un-necessary work.

Check those plugs on yours, they also may not be properly seated. I'm going to keep an eye on mine from now on.

Thanks to Ionbeam once again for time spent with me in solving this problem.

Click to expand...

I am the other guy with the code 12. Can you please tell me the exact location of the rectifier to save me a lot of time. I looked in the manual and didn't find it. Does the gas tank need to be off again to get to it or just side plastic? Thanks

JR'SFJR said:

I am the other guy with the code 12. Can you please tell me the exact location of the rectifier to save me a lot of time. I looked in the manual and didn't find it. Does the gas tank need to be off again to get to it or just side plastic? Thanks

Click to expand...

Found this in 7 seconds by entering rectifier location site:fjrforum.com at Google.

I checked the connectors at the rectifier on mine and they were dry. Still don't know why I got a code 12 on mine either, but it is still running good after raising the idle and adding Seafoam gas treatment????

JR'SFJR said:

I checked the connectors at the rectifier on mine and they were dry. Still don't know why I got a code 12 on mine either, but it is still running good after raising the idle and adding Seafoam gas treatment????

Click to expand...

...perhaps that's because the idle is supposed to be 1100?!? FJRs are known to have idle problems if the idle is set any lower.

We have had 10% rthanol for over 2 years in mass basically since before I bought the feej. Never had a problem.

In the diagnostic screen go to D-09 and flip the kill switch on, you will hear the fuel pump kick on and you will see a number value on the screen, it should be 12'according to the FSM. I am only getting 11.4 but I get 13.2 when I check the battery not sure why I get the voltage drop, but when I find out I will post it.

I got a code 12 code on my bike a few months ago. It would not start, a new solonide was the fix