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cheapskate2

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Anyone experiencing this?.....Bike starts fine, idles ok, first time I pull back on the throttle it just dies. The bike starts right back up and never dies again. I've only noticed it after the bike has been run and then sits for awhile (i.e. after stopping to eat). The thing that bothers me the most about this is that it has happened in front of my buddies, one who rides a honda and the other a harley :glare: . It makes it hard to brag about how the FJ eats either one's lunch when it does that. As far as the bike goes, I've got about 2700 miles and the ECU upgrade. I don't know if it did it before the upgrade or not, only had a couple hundred on it when it was replaced. I'd take it in to the dealer except my local doesn't impress me.

Thanks in advance.

Cheapskate2

 
Go over there to them and discuss it anyway to see what they say. That will really give you a handle on their ability to fix things. And, while you are there you can show them what you are talking about.

The worst thing that can happen is that they will call Yamaha Tech Support and PROBABLY get a line on the problem. You don't have to leave the bike for repair.

 
Mine does the same thing.

I've noticed it only does it when warm. When I drive straight off after a warm starting (and consequently stall), or blip the throttle within 10 (approx.) seconds of a warm start.

If I let it idle for 10 seconds then it's fine.

When cold, no problem as it's idling higher anyway.

I too have the upgraded ECU, as well as the G2 tube and a PCIII (basic map).

The issue doesn't bother me much. After all the problems I've had with the surging off closed throttle that is finally cured (well 95% after the afore mentioned mods) I can live with this. I just let it idle 10 seconds following a warm start.

John

 
Happened to me only once that I can remember. That was what caused me to notice that the idle was set too low. Anyway, I cannot confirm that is what caused it or fixed it.

 
Mine does the same thing.I've noticed it only does it when warm. When I drive straight off after a warm starting (and consequently stall), or blip the throttle within 10 (approx.) seconds of a warm start.

If I let it idle for 10 seconds then it's fine.

When cold, no problem as it's idling higher anyway.

I too have the upgraded ECU, as well as the G2 tube and a PCIII (basic map).

The issue doesn't bother me much. After all the problems I've had with the surging off closed throttle that is finally cured (well 95% after the afore mentioned mods) I can live with this. I just let it idle 10 seconds following a warm start.

John
Check the WARM idle speed.

It should be at 1050 to 1100.

You can adjust it under the right side fairing by turning the knurled knob in the fairing opening by hand or with a phillips.

If that doesn't do it, take it back to the dealer.

 
I have had the same problem (08FJR) Mentioned it to the dealer machanic and when he did a test drive it didn't happen to him. A couple of weeks ago it stalled 5 times in a row evan after warmup. Only happens ocasionaly. It doesn't seem to have any consistant circumstances.

Other times i can ride for week and not have it happen. Go figure?

 
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My 08 did this occasionally until I changed the warm idle to 1100 rpm. It was set at 900 when I took delivery. It has never happened again. In my case it didn't seem to matter if it was cold or warm.

 
I'm not convinced that it's the idle speed. My bike dies on occasion too when I abruptly roll-on throttle from idle and the warm idle is set at ~1100 rpm. The reason, I believe, is that it's running too lean (I do note some evidence of a lean surge when holding a constant cruising speed). I've ordered a Power Commander which I expect to alleviate some if not all of the lean condition. (I'm not doing the Barbarian Jumper Mod. Like ScooterG, I have a hard time believing that arbitrarily changing CO values without measurement is the right way to go.) As an aside, my bike does have the revised ECU, but this problem did occur (occasionally) prior to the ECU change in October last year.

 
I'm not convinced that it's the idle speed. My bike dies on occasion too when I abruptly roll-on throttle from idle and the warm idle is set at ~1100 rpm. The reason, I believe, is that it's running too lean (I do note some evidence of a lean surge when holding a constant cruising speed). I've ordered a Power Commander which I expect to alleviate some if not all of the lean condition. (I'm not doing the Barbarian Jumper Mod. Like ScooterG, I have a hard time believing that arbitrarily changing CO values without measurement is the right way to go.) As an aside, my bike does have the revised ECU, but this problem did occur (occasionally) prior to the ECU change in October last year.

This is where I was leaning when I posted the question. I have also noticed the surge you're talking about. Just out of curiosity though, what are you going to use to dial in your bike? Is there a map that you are looking at or are going to use a CO monitor and custom map?

Thanks for the reply.

Cheapskate2

 
I'm not convinced that it's the idle speed. My bike dies on occasion too when I abruptly roll-on throttle from idle and the warm idle is set at ~1100 rpm. The reason, I believe, is that it's running too lean (I do note some evidence of a lean surge when holding a constant cruising speed). I've ordered a Power Commander which I expect to alleviate some if not all of the lean condition. (I'm not doing the Barbarian Jumper Mod. Like ScooterG, I have a hard time believing that arbitrarily changing CO values without measurement is the right way to go.) As an aside, my bike does have the revised ECU, but this problem did occur (occasionally) prior to the ECU change in October last year.

This is where I was leaning when I posted the question. I have also noticed the surge you're talking about. Just out of curiosity though, what are you going to use to dial in your bike? Is there a map that you are looking at or are going to use a CO monitor and custom map?

Thanks for the reply.

Cheapskate2
To meet emission standards, I think Yamaha has tuned these right up to the tipping point of running or not. Damned EPA anyway. ;)

The big problem for me is the infrequency of the "blip-n-die" issue. I'm going to start with the stock exhaust, stock air filter map (M419-001) from Dynojet and see how that works. If the little annoyance continues thereafter, I'll take it to a tuner and have it tweaked.

 
This is just a guess: Is the stock bike starving for air?

Perhaps when the bike is sitting still, with no air movement, it can't breath fast enough for a throttle blip. Perhaps it's a temporary flodding episode?

Both my 07 and 08 were prone to stall when twisting the throttle at a dead stop. The higher idle speed helped, but since I chopped the airbox, it hasn't stalled again.

 
I'm with you SockMonkey, the infrequency pretty much makes it pointless to take to the dealership (especially mine), as I'm sure that it won't reporoduce itself. I was just wondering if anyone else had experienced it too. If you wouldn't mind, I'd be very interested in hearing how you like the bike after trying DynoJets map, or if you notice any difference at all. I have thought very seriously about getting the PC3 myself. I put one on the Stratoliner I had after installing an air kit and new pipes and it really did help. I'm not looking for any performance gains really, this bike rocks the way it is. But, I do know that they ship the bikes LEAN to meet all the emissions, and I would be willing to shell out the $3-400 to make sure that it's running the best it can. For the record, my idle appears to be at 1100 when the bike is warm (according to the bike). The one other possibility that I was thinking of is that I have put on an Audiovox Cruise Control. So I'm wondering if maybe the vacuum canister I added has affected the bike in anyway. I tested it and the check valve for leakage when I installed it. I have never done a TBS on the bike. I figured I'd do it around the 4,000 mark.

Another question to all you brainiacs out there, did I read that there was a way to put the bike into diagnostic mode so that the CO would display on the LCD or did I dream that up?

Thanks to all for the help, this forum is awesome.

 
I have a stock 07A with 3,000 miles and it still has the stock ECU. It stalls after a hot soak. ( hot day, ride to the store and buy a soda then get back on the bike and it starts okay but idles a touch lower than normal (1000 even rather than the 1050-1075) then stalls easily when taking off. Runs fine after a less than a minute. With how lean these are programmed to run and combine it with the heat shield under the fuel tank......is it boiling the fuel in the fuel rail? ( kind of like vapor-lock in a car from the old days) The overly hot fuel in the rail would explain the light throttle surging that I can only feel when it is over 80 degrees outside.

Just a thought :blink:

 
If you wouldn't mind, I'd be very interested in hearing how you like the bike after trying DynoJets map, or if you notice any difference at all. I have thought very seriously about getting the PC3 myself.
When I installed the PCIII it was to try and fix the surging problem when opening the throttle, the bucking bronco effect, and the standard map was very effective, solved my problem 80%. I don't remember having this problem before I installed the PCIII. It could probably be fixed with a custom map, but since I installed the G2 throttle tube, the surging problem is 95% fixed and I can live with the other 5%.

I've considered having the bike dyno'd, it'd cost $250ish, but all in all, I am OK with the way things are at the moment. Another reason I haven't dyno'ed it yet is I'm thinkin about adding an after market exhaust, if I do, then I would dyno it for sure.

As I said in a previous post, I can live with this issue by just letting the bike idle for 10 or 15 seconds before opening the throttle. THen I have no problem.

 
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The one other possibility that I was thinking of is that I have put on an Audiovox Cruise Control. So I'm wondering if maybe the vacuum canister I added has affected the bike in anyway. I tested it and the check valve for leakage when I installed it.
If it's not leaking, then you can be pretty darn sure it's not causing any problems. In the grand scheme of things, the vac canister is way too small to affect operation of the engine, as far as I know.

I have never done a TBS on the bike. I figured I'd do it around the 4,000 mark.
I see no reason to wait.

dbx

 

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