Bike starts up full throttle

While trying to change the CO settings on my '07 FJR (after doing the BJM) I apparently went to the wrong submenu. When I realized this I shut off the bike and restarted it. But now the bike starts up full throttle. I shut it off immediately and checked the throttle cables and linkage. Nothing is sticking and the linkage is at the rest idle position. Start the bike again and its full throttle.

I pulled out the plug from the ECU thinking it might reset but this didn't work.

The submenu I got to had a "d" instead of the "c" for the CO adjustments. I must have changed something.

Can anyone suggest how to fix this or at least reset the ECU to all factory default settings. This is very embarrassing since I posted the directions on the Gen II BJM and CO adjustments.

All help appreciated.

Jon,

I am not sure it this is it, but see if your Diag Code -D01 (Throttle Angle) settings should be 15-17 (with Throttle Closed) and 97-100 (with Throttle Wide Open). Perhaps you changed this setting by accident?

I don't know of any other D Change that would cause this problem.

Hope you find your problem.

There is nothing that can be set from the diAG mode, only from the Co mode. In the diAG mode you can toggle things like the coils, headlight relay, fan relay, etc; you can view fault history and reset the codes but you can not set anything, not even the TPS. Did the check engine light come on? Are there any stored codes at diAG 61?

For the engine to run WOT the butterflies in the TBs must be wide open, this the only way it can run full throttle. Either your throttle tube (handlebar) is stuck or the pulley between the TBs is stuck. Even if the TPS were stuck at 100% it would need the throttle plates to be wide open to supply the air.

With the ignition off try snapping the throttle open/closed and see how it feels and listen for mechanical noise.

?????

That happened to me too, but I accidentally left the throttle wide open with my throttlemeister while synching my TBs. It scared the crap out of me. The fact the engine took a while to fire up should have been a red flag. It was during break-in, but at least engine was warm.

Ion is correct. Without 'throttle-by-wire' (like R1s and R6s), there's no way to run your engine to redline without the throttle plates getting manually opened (not electronically). I said 'redline' because it only takes a fraction of throttle to do that, so you might not have it at WOT at all, but the fact your engine races to redline makes you believe that. Bottom line is you can feel your throttle returning, but something is keeping it from fully closing, and that's what you need to investigate.

I'd lift the tank and remove the airbox before doing anything else, and physically check the butterflies. They should be fully closed. Let us know what you find and we go from there. Good luck.

JC

Another reason not to be messing with the BJM!!!

Sorry, couldn't resist.

Well, we have some results in the problem. First, thanks Hiyosilver for the D codes, but as ionbeam pointed out, I didn't change anything in the ECU (thanks ion). It is a throttle cable issue, prompted by my installation of the new Heli triple clamp and rerouting of the throttle cables (something I didn't mention because I was SURE it was something else).

So, now the racing idle is gone and the bike rides OK, but we have a new issue -- or issues:

1. The throttle will snap back to idle with the bike off, but when running it returns slowly to idle, and

2. It doesn't go all the way to idle. I have to actually roll the throttle forward a little bit to get it all the way back to idle.

I also have the MCC cruise control, which adds three cables (can you farlke too much?). The MCC cables have caused no problem before and the bike ran and idled fine with it installed up until yesterday.

I'm going to keep checking the throttle cables, but can't explain why the bike slowly returns to idle when running.

So once again I look to the gurus on the Forum. Help!

Have you released throttle springs? Do you have a G2? Have you changed grips? Have you recently done a TBS? Have you recently fiddled with the vacuum caps or vacuum tubes around the TBs? How much free play does your throttle grip have?

Assuming your throttle springs are in place, no fiddling and you do not have a G2, the reason your engine speed is slow to return to idle is due to sticking or dragging of the throttle cable, throttle grip or throttle tube. The cable could be a routing issue caused by a sharp bend or pinching in the cable. Your throttle grip may have slid inboard (toward the key) and is dragging on the switch housing. The FSM specs the throttle cable free play, measured by the amount of free rotation of the throttle grip as 0.12" to 0.20" max. There should be some free play in the cable.

Well, these are a few ideas.

Jon,

Glad you found your fix and it was not more complicated. Far as your current problem, seems like something is binding some where.

Hope you find you solution.

I had a cable binding problem after I installed my bar risers on my '03. Didn't take long to discover that the throttle grip would not return all the way when released, I'd have to "push" it closed. A bit of un-twisting of the relocated throttle cable and all was well. And as said, it doesn't take much throttle to make an unloaded engine race away wildly.

My problems began with the installation of the new Heli triple clamp and rerouting of the throttle cables. I was sure I got it right and that the cables were not binding. What made it so confusing was that when the bike is off I can twist the throttle and release it and it snaps back to its rest (idle) position every time. I've verified this by checking the position of the throttle body linkage (tank, T-bar and heat shield removed).

I have the MCC cruise control installed, have unwound the return spring one turn and do not have a G2 tube. Everything worked fine until the triple clamp installation.

Sunday I took the bike for a 150 mile ride. It rode fine except that, when released, the throttle would slowly return to idle and then only to about 1500-1700 rpm. I had to rotate the throttle grip forward, and hold it there, to get the bike all the way back to idle (about 1000 rpm). Again, with the bike off, the throttle snapped back to its idle position.

From the comments and assistance offered here it sure looks like a cable issue. I will be back at it next weekend and hopefully find the source of my problem. Please feel free to offer additional advice. Thanks to everyone for assistance and advice already given.