Removing spark plug cap assembly

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Constant Mesh

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What's the proper technique for removing these caps?

At first I thought most of the required upward force was due to the friction of the cap against the plug insulator and the head cover. But you'd think after rotating the cap from side to side before pulling upward would greatly reduce this friction. But it doesn't help all that much. I've put a little silicone grease on the cap but it doesn't seem to make much difference.

Is the metal-to-metal connection between the cap and the plug why so much upward force is needed?

What's the best technique for grabbing the cap to pull upward on it?

 
At the top of the cap is a rather obvious grip area-that's what you pull on. It's tight, because it is also a seal to prevent water and dirt from entering the plug well.

 
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I have a pair (or something very close) of these.

They are left overs from my mechanic days. Life is soooo much easier with the right tool.

At least that's what she said.

 
Haven't really run into a problem myself, but no doubt a silicone spray on the boot would ease removal-just don't get it on the gripper on top, or it's never coming off. Actual spark plug contact is familiar cross wire that you can hear (and feel) contacting the spark plug tip threads-that's not a real show stopper. Nor have I seen any indication of tip-wire contact welding like one sees on automotive applications, but then I haven't left plugs in for 50k either, so while a glob of dielectric won't hurt, I don't think it's gonna ease boot removal either. The tool okie shows is handy for the common boots found also in automotive, but not really made for this application, but more for the round ones. If the boots stuck, any tool could very well just destroy them like what happened to Skoot.

 
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I may try pressuring the caps out next time. Insert an inflation needle down through the top and apply compressed air. Will leave a small hole in the top but it's not likely any moisture will get into the cavity.

 
Constant Mesh said:
What's the proper technique for removing these caps?
At first I thought most of the required upward force was due to the friction of the cap against the plug insulator and the head cover. But you'd think after rotating the cap from side to side before pulling upward would greatly reduce this friction. But it doesn't help all that much. I've put a little silicone grease on the cap but it doesn't seem to make much difference.

Is the metal-to-metal connection between the cap and the plug why so much upward force is needed?

What's the best technique for grabbing the cap to pull upward on it?
Click to expand...
2006A model:

Got the tank, t-bar, and heat shield off to install Brodie's terminal relay and though't I'd give a shot at changing the plugs - how in god's name did the stealer even get the spak plug caps off?!?! Use to change spark plugs on old 2 stroke 4wheeler and yami waverunners but those were the L-shaped caps - the ones you can easily remove with your hands.

On the FJR I can't get any of them off with my fingers, tried wiggling the plug back in forth and it won't budge- I feel as if I'm going to yank the wire right out of the cap. Considered using needlenose pliers/vicegrips as is done on the fjrtech site for removing plugs but thought otherwise after reading skooterG's mishap. Once I get a pair of the special spark plug cap pliers, how tight can I grip the caps w/o damaging them? I feel as if I have to use all my might to pull the plug caps out - does that sound right? Don't have compressed air in the garage for the drilling the hole mod. Aside from changing the oil this is the farthest I've ever gone in terms of regular maintance on this bike (I'm not a good do-it-ur-selfer.) Just feel a bit bummed having to stop now after coming this far -but would be pissed if I F-up those caps

First plugs were changed at 8k miles, have 17k on the bike now - am I good if I leave those plugs in until 26k when valve adjustment is due? Please help!

Thx

Joe

 
joeR6 said:
Constant Mesh said:
What's the proper technique for removing these caps?
At first I thought most of the required upward force was due to the friction of the cap against the plug insulator and the head cover. But you'd think after rotating the cap from side to side before pulling upward would greatly reduce this friction. But it doesn't help all that much. I've put a little silicone grease on the cap but it doesn't seem to make much difference.

Is the metal-to-metal connection between the cap and the plug why so much upward force is needed?

What's the best technique for grabbing the cap to pull upward on it?
Click to expand...
2006A model:

Got the tank, t-bar, and heat shield off to install Brodie's terminal relay and though't I'd give a shot at changing the plugs - how in god's name did the stealer even get the spak plug caps off?!?! Use to change spark plugs on old 2 stroke 4wheeler and yami waverunners but those were the L-shaped caps - the ones you can easily remove with your hands.

On the FJR I can't get any of them off with my fingers, tried wiggling the plug back in forth and it won't budge- I feel as if I'm going to yank the wire right out of the cap. Considered using needlenose pliers/vicegrips as is done on the fjrtech site for removing plugs but thought otherwise after reading skooterG's mishap. Once I get a pair of the special spark plug cap pliers, how tight can I grip the caps w/o damaging them? I feel as if I have to use all my might to pull the plug caps out - does that sound right? Don't have compressed air in the garage for the drilling the hole mod. Aside from changing the oil this is the farthest I've ever gone in terms of regular maintance on this bike (I'm not a good do-it-ur-selfer.) Just feel a bit bummed having to stop now after coming this far -but would be pissed if I F-up those caps

First plugs were changed at 8k miles, have 17k on the bike now - am I good if I leave those plugs in until 26k when valve adjustment is due? Please help!

Thx

Joe
Click to expand...
I replaced my plugs a few days ago (16,092 miles- they looked good!) and ran into the same problem. What worked for me: use a big flat bladed screwdriver to wiggle the cap loose. Not really prying on it, just slide the blade under the edge of the cap and twist it back and forth while pulling up. It'll pop right off. Also, before inserting your socket for plug removal, put a dab motor oil on the outside of the socket. This will allow it to slide easily past the seal going in and more importantly coming out. If your sockets and extensions don't have pin locks it can be a bitch getting the socket out past the seal. Be sure to check the gap of the new plugs- mine were too far open. and I always use a dab of antiseize on plug threads before installing, just my preference.

 
joeR6 said:
First plugs were changed at 8k miles, have 17k on the bike now - am I good if I leave those plugs in until 26k when valve adjustment is due? Please help!Thx

Joe
Click to expand...
My current set of cheap plugs have 22K on them and it seems to run fine. They are coming out this winter though. I put silicone grease on the rubber boot, bottom and top, to ease removal.

 
I did it!! :yahoo:

After visiting numerous auto parts stores with no luck looking for the special spark plug cap pliers I decided to give it one last try - I just really had to dig my fingers under the lip of the cap, wiggle the them as best I could while pulling up hard and whollla! They came off, took old plugs out - new iridiums in, little bit of silicone lube back on the caps - she started right up! I'm so happy! Thanks everyone for your excellent advice - this forum rocks!

Now to put brodie's relay harness on - I'll save that for another post.

 
I must have been real blessed. Or the FJR gods smiled upon my spark plug removal. I gave minimal force and they popped right off, no issues. I read many threads about this and heating the engine first etc. I did cold first thing in the morning and they seemed to be on fine and came off no problem. I was really surprised how easy it was.

The one small thing I ran into was the spark plug socket had to be thin wall. I had one that worked and one that didn't. The other thing was my rubber insert in the socket was too small to grip the plug, so I couldn't pull the plug out of the vast crater of doom. I had to rig a small piece of extra rubber under the insert rubber and it worked great. Now the real fun part was reinstalling them without leaving the socket below with the plug. You needed enough force on the plug to hold it as you lowered it in but, not enough to keep the socket on the plug. There is very little room to wiggle the socket off, it's real tight.

I started each plug a bit then pulled the insert out and then tightened it all down.

My old standard resistor plugs looked great, I replaced them with Iridiums. We'll see how that works.

 
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The el-cheapo spark plug socket that Yamaha provides, works better than anything else I've tried. A 14mm socket fits over it for the final tightening.

Theoretically, you should be able to use a sharp point like a long-taper awl or needle to poke a hole in the plug boot. Lube the football needle with some spit and blow that sucker right out. It should seal itself fine after the air needle is removed.

The whole thing could just cause one great big fart noise, but it will be fun to try on somebody else's bike this weekend.

:)

 
I know this is an old thread but I just did my sparkplugs for the first time and struggled with pulling the caps off too. I read what rbentnail sais above and thought I would try the same thing BUT... with a dirt bike tire spoon. Knocked the mud off my KTM fanny pack and pulled out my combo axle/tire spoon.

https://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0288/

Worked like a champ. Wider than a screwdriver. No sharp edges and there was enough room to wiggle the caps by twisting the spoon (not prying) while pulling up with my other hand. I heard "zzzzzz" and the popped right off. I guess it was just enough extra lift. Thanks guys. This forum rocks.

Oh and yes the Yamaha spark plug socket in the OEM tool kit worked great also. Sweet.

 
The first time I removed them, they were stuck pretty well and it took a little prying and coaxing to break the seal. At that time, I lightly lubed the plug boots with a little dielectric grease and they have come off easily every time since then.

The same applies to the rubber boots covering the back of the headlights. A thin film of dielectric grease makes future bulb changes much easier. (at least as far as removing and reinstalling the boots). I still have to deal with size XXL hands trying to maneuver a bulb in a size M space without touching the bulb's glass envelope with my greasy mitts.

 
Not the same vehicle but I recently had to do spark plugs on my wife's VW Rabbit! On the internet I got some good advise about using a zap strap as a puller under the hard plastic union attached to the down tube? In my case I was able to slide the strap under the cap? and use it to pull up if that make any sense?

 

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