Adjusting brake pedal

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isuftin

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Just took delivery of a brand new 08 FJR. Excellent bike, but I find that the brake pedal position makes my right leg feel very cramped. I'd like to move the pedal down a bit and I tried working with the two nuts (lol) that control the level but it seems all I've accomplished was creating less free-play on the pedal to brake. I'm tempted to remove the pedal from the joint it sits on and reposition it, but there are markers on the pedal and the joint it sits on that meet up that hints at me that I shouldn't do that. There's nothing in the manual on how to adjust this and from experience on doing it on my Honda Shadow, those are the two nuts (lol) that I should play with (lol) to move the pedal up and down. Does anyone have any tips on moving the level of the brake pedal? Pictures would be VERY welcome.

 
From looking at the parts manual (I used the exploded view to double-check my first thought) that is exactly how you adjust the pedal position.

When looking at the assembly, the hex nut is what turns the rod, the bottom hex nut is the locking/jam nut.

Soooo, if you lossen the bottom nut (closest to the rear of the brake pedal) you should be able to turn the top hex (rotating the brake rod) to adjust it shorter.

Clear as mud? :unsure:

[SIZE=8pt]OMG, I was going to suggest lubricating it...tight spaces, short movements, etc., then I thought better of mentioning that with O.M., Bustanut and Barb lurking about.[/SIZE]

 
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From looking at the parts manual (I used the exploded view to double-check my first thought) that is exactly how you adjust the pedal position.
When looking at the assembly, the hex nut is what turns the rod, the bottom hex nut is the locking/jam nut.

Soooo, if you lossen the bottom nut (closest to the rear of the brake pedal) you should be able to turn the top hex (rotating the brake rod) to adjust it shorter.

Clear as mud? :unsure:

[SIZE=8pt]OMG, I was going to suggest lubricating it...tight spaces, short movements, etc., then I thought better of mentioning that with O.M., Bustanut and Barb lurking about.[/SIZE]
And that's exactly what I did, but it seemed to mess up the amount of free-play the pedal has. So I was under the impression there might be a different way of doing this WITHOUT messing with the free play. The other concern I have is is there a point where if I adjust the brake pedal to where it will be engaged without me pressing on it or the brake light will constantly be on? An exploded view of the parts manual would certainly be helpful. Is the parts manual available for purchase only or..?

Thanks for the quick reply,btw.

 
isuftin ~ Welcome to the fold! You're going to love your new ride...

The parts manual is widely available online, try BikeBandit, Mondak Motorsports, or even Mama Yamaha's home page.

If you start buying parts from Gary at Mondak, he will send you the parts fiche on CD if you ask... at least he did a few months ago.

Good luck!

Don

 
And that's exactly what I did, but it seemed to mess up the amount of free-play the pedal has. So I was under the impression there might be a different way of doing this WITHOUT messing with the free play. The other concern I have is is there a point where if I adjust the brake pedal to where it will be engaged without me pressing on it or the brake light will constantly be on? An exploded view of the parts manual would certainly be helpful. Is the parts manual available for purchase only or..?
Thanks for the quick reply,btw.
Have you tried adjusting the screw the other direction so as to lower the pedal. That shouldn't lessen the free play but allow the pedal more room to move.

There's always the "bending" alternative. :rolleyes:

Just kidding..... :huh:

Well...sort of.... ;)

__________________________________________________________________________________________

________

Parts catalog on line:

https://www.yamaha-motor.com/

I have this link as a bookmark for easy access.

Click on "SPORT"

Once that window appears, in the "black bar" click on "Parts and Service"

In the blue side bar, click on "View Parts Catalog". That will bring a window where you must enter your bike information: Product line (motorcycle), Year, Model (mine is: motorcycle, 2005, FJR1300ABS (Galaxy Blue) (CA Edit.) FJR1300ATC.

That will open the parts catalog window.

You "might" have to register, I don't remember.

 
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are you talking about moving the brake lever or rotating the lever down?

i don't know of how to move it. but rotating it is very easy.

i just took my brake lever assembly off for lube maintenance. i took the lever off of the splined shaft and did my clean up. after appling a light coating of grease i noticed there are two alignment marks one on the shaft and one on the lever to put the lever back on at the factory position.

i would think that you would loosen the pinch bolt on the brake lever, lightly tap it to remove it and move it a few teeth on the shaft to get the clearence you need.

cadman

 
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are you talking about moving the brake lever or rotating the lever down?
i don't know of how to move it. but rotating it is very easy.

i just took my brake lever assembly off for lube maintenance. i took the lever off of the splined shaft and did my clean up. after appling a light coating of grease i noticed there are two alignment marks one on the shaft and one on the lever to put the lever back on at the factory position.

i would think that you would loosen the pinch bolt on the brake lever, lightly tap it to remove it and move it a few teeth on the shaft to get the clearence you need.

cadman
yes, I was thinking of doing that but was concerned about the alignment marks having more reason for being there than just eventually putting it back at the factory position. If not, I can definitely take it off the shaft and put it back on where I want it.

 
are you talking about moving the brake lever or rotating the lever down?i would think that you would loosen the pinch bolt on the brake lever, lightly tap it to remove it and move it a few teeth on the shaft to get the clearence you need.
yes, I was thinking of doing that but was concerned about the alignment marks having more reason for being there than just eventually putting it back at the factory position. If not, I can definitely take it off the shaft and put it back on where I want it.
Yes, that's the way to do it: Remove the pinch bolt, prise apart the gap, move the lever 1 (one) spline down, re-pinch to tight w/bolt -- then adj. push-rod as nec.

(imo, If more FJR riders would've done this early-on?, we wouldn't now be saddled with mandatory ABS due to over-active application of the rear brake pedal...?)

 
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are you talking about moving the brake lever or rotating the lever down?
i don't know of how to move it. but rotating it is very easy.

i just took my brake lever assembly off for lube maintenance. i took the lever off of the splined shaft and did my clean up. after appling a light coating of grease i noticed there are two alignment marks one on the shaft and one on the lever to put the lever back on at the factory position.

i would think that you would loosen the pinch bolt on the brake lever, lightly tap it to remove it and move it a few teeth on the shaft to get the clearence you need.

cadman
yes, I was thinking of doing that but was concerned about the alignment marks having more reason for being there than just eventually putting it back at the factory position. If not, I can definitely take it off the shaft and put it back on where I want it.
I just replaced mine after a get off. Mechanic told me to do just this procedure to remove the bent one and replace with the new. Easy. What type grease did you use cadman?

 
(imo, If more FJR riders would've down this early-on?, we wouldn't now be saddled with mandatory ABS due to over-active application of the rear brake pedal...?)
Perhaps, or maybe if more riders rode with the ball of their foot on the peg instead of the arch....

;)

There's nothing wrong with the Yamaha ABS. What, you think it's too heavy? :lol:

 
are you talking about moving the brake lever or rotating the lever down?i would think that you would loosen the pinch bolt on the brake lever, lightly tap it to remove it and move it a few teeth on the shaft to get the clearence you need.
yes, I was thinking of doing that but was concerned about the alignment marks having more reason for being there than just eventually putting it back at the factory position. If not, I can definitely take it off the shaft and put it back on where I want it.
Yes, that's the way to do it: Remove the pinch bolt, prise apart the gap, move the lever 1 (one) spline down, re-pinch to tight w/bolt -- then adj. push-rod as nec.

(imo, If more FJR riders would've done this early-on?, we wouldn't now be saddled with mandatory ABS due to over-active application of the rear brake pedal...?)
Yes, I did this on both my FJRs. I loosened the pinch bolt worked the brake lever off and moved it down one notch on the splined shaft. Much better.

GP

 
(imo, If more FJR riders would've done this early-on?, we wouldn't now be saddled with mandatory ABS due to over-active application of the rear brake pedal...?)
What, you think it's too heavy? :lol:
When it comes to road-going motorcycles, in America, it appears that there's no such thing as too heavy?

(the benefits of) Road-hugging weight..., I guess? :unsure:

 
are you talking about moving the brake lever or rotating the lever down?
i don't know of how to move it. but rotating it is very easy.

i just took my brake lever assembly off for lube maintenance. i took the lever off of the splined shaft and did my clean up. after appling a light coating of grease i noticed there are two alignment marks one on the shaft and one on the lever to put the lever back on at the factory position.

i would think that you would loosen the pinch bolt on the brake lever, lightly tap it to remove it and move it a few teeth on the shaft to get the clearence you need.

cadman
yes, I was thinking of doing that but was concerned about the alignment marks having more reason for being there than just eventually putting it back at the factory position. If not, I can definitely take it off the shaft and put it back on where I want it.
I just replaced mine after a get off. Mechanic told me to do just this procedure to remove the bent one and replace with the new. Easy. What type grease did you use cadman?
Worked like a charm. Thanks! :)

 
After I took delivery of my FJR, I felt that the break pedal height was forcing me to hold my foot in the air to keep pressure off of it. This was annoying and tiring. The pedal position is easily modified by loosening and removing the locking bolt and screw. The break pedal can then be easily slipped off the spline and moved a notch or two. The original position is indexed if you want to return to the stock position. Lowering the pedal by one clockwise spline made a world off difference for me.

 
I replied earlier but I don't see my response.....here goes again. My brake pedal felt high to me after I got my bike. I had to hold my foot up all the time and it got uncomfortable. It's easy to do. Remove the locking nut and bolt from the pedal. Slide the pedal off the spline and rotate it down in a clockwise fashion. One or two notches should be all you need. Replace the bolt and torque. The original location is indexed if you want to return to the factory setting.

 
I replied earlier but I don't see my response.....here goes again. My brake pedal felt high to me after I got my bike. I had to hold my foot up all the time and it got uncomfortable. It's easy to do. Remove the locking nut and bolt from the pedal. Slide the pedal off the spline and rotate it down in a clockwise fashion. One or two notches should be all you need. Replace the bolt and torque. The original location is indexed if you want to return to the factory setting.
Worked on mine no problems.

 
shiny,

i used some honda moly 60 paste.

isuftin,

your welcome glad we could help ya out!

cadman

 
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There's nothing wrong with the Yamaha ABS.
ABS sux as a general thing. It's a crutch. It's almost always doing things exactly when you don't want it to. When taking a MC track day course at Willow Springs, one of the first units of instruction is on how to brake. The instructors inform the riders the what, when and where of braking, then you spend a short amount of time practicing before heading onto the track. They tell the riders with ABS to do the best they can with what they have because it's clearly not as good at scrubbing energy as a hefty set of manual binders. In my Evo, I've installed a switch to turn ABS off. I use it whenever I'm throwing her around in anger and the results are dramatic.

Maybe Yami has good ABS in so far as ABS goes, but ABS sux.

W2

 
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