Oil drain plug + washer won't seal

I took delivery of my 2007 FJR with 20k miles this week. I immediately changed the oil. When I removed the drain plug, I noticed the crushable part of the washer was threaded into the threads of the drain plug. Someone way over-torqued it. I replaced the crush washer, oil and filter. Well, the drain plug will not seal. Yes, the washer is in the correct orientation. It gets to a certain point and then starts turning freely again. It won't tighten enough to stop oil from leaking. Anyone have any ideas?

That doesn't sound good. Stripped out threads? I'm thinking the FJR has a removable pan so you could remove it and use a threadsert like Helicoil or similar and be on your way.

In the future, don't "torque" the drain plug. Just a good snugging is all thats necessary.

I'd bet someone with firsthand experience will be along here at any moment. :clapping:

I agree with Tree Doc. Somebody probably overtightened. I personally think Yamaha went overboard with the 31 and aim for 27 ft-pounds.

TD and Ig double gunny. If it keeps going after tight, your threads are gone.

No worries that the crush washer is stuck to the drain plug threads so to speak. It crushes as designed, expands in two directions one of which is the (ID) threads, and is sometimes hard to remove. It's no biggie, I thread mine off it comes off no issues.

BTW - Most stripped threads (that I know of from this forum) come from those that use the Yammer torque specs form the manual, they seem to strip the threads. :huh: I use my calibrated wrist of, "that's tight enough". Never had a leak.

The pan isn't too bad to pull to fix this, the exhaust must come off though (don't forget to get new header crush washers or you'll regret it) or get a new pan. :blink:

Good luck let us know how it goes.

The oil drain bolt it pretty long, so why not try using a normal flat washer or two to space the bolt out a bit in case the stripped threads are only at the end.

Auto parts stores use to sell oversize drain plugs that would cut new threads as you screwed them into the oil pan. Not sure if they still sell them or not.

I appreciate the input guys. I think I will purchase a copper washer and use that in conjunction with the crush washer and see if that works. If not, a helicoil will be the way to go it seems.

I use the Honda flat aluminum "crush" washers (that don't crush) and the Honda torque spec of 22-24. Never leaks. But sounds like you got a problem with your pan threads. They are softer than the drain plug..... but check the plug threads just in case and get a new one if need be.

Honestly, if you have stripped most of the threads, you should fix it and not just try to get by. It would suck to be out on the road and have that bolt come out and lose all your oil and seize your motor.

PhilJet09 said:

Honestly, if you have stripped most of the threads, you should fix it and not just try to get by. It would suck to be out on the road and have that bolt come out and lose all your oil and seize your motor.

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Gunny.

Shatho said:

I appreciate the input guys. I think I will purchase a copper washer and use that in conjunction with the crush washer and see if that works. If not, a helicoil will be the way to go it seems.

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I wouldn't play games with this. That old saying comes to mind... "Pay me now or pay me later".

I've tried heli-coils, they leak. Not bad, but we ain't talking H-D here.

Your local Yammy dealer(or just about any dealer of motor vehicles) can put a "timesert" in. Reduces your thread one size but is solid, as the install tool swells it to seal the threads.

Used one last summer to repair my 1984 Honda Accord oil pan. Don't ask(involves using a 120lb torque wrench and not wearing the "readers").

Bluestreek said:

Auto parts stores use to sell oversize drain plugs that would cut new threads as you screwed them into the oil pan. Not sure if they still sell them or not.

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+ 1 with the self tapping drain plug if working in situ. Other methods create way to much metal debree.

If it was my ride I would not take any chances. I would replace the oil pan.

Wouldn't a self tapper push threads into the pan?

"aim for 27 ft-pounds."

I dunno but 20-22ftlbs has worked for me on any oil drain plug I've ever tightened.

Just throwing this into the mix,..but I wonder if a hydraulic ORB washer of the correct size might be a good replacement for crush washers? Takes very little torque to get them to withstand 2000 psi and the only concern would be the bolt backing.

Cheers

DB

DonRed7 said:

Just throwing this into the mix,..but I wonder if a hydraulic ORB washer of the correct size might be a good replacement for crush washers? Takes very little torque to get them to withstand 2000 psi and the only concern would be the bolt backing.

Cheers

DB

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Not a bad idea, but why not just keep it simple. Get the Honda flat aluminum washers, for about $0.35 each in packs of 10 if you want. As long as you don't overtorque (say 24 ft. lbs.), one washer will last you a very long time.

RaYzerman19 said:

Not a bad idea, but why not just keep it simple. Get the Honda flat aluminum washers, for about $0.35 each in packs of 10 if you want. As long as you don't overtorque (say 24 ft. lbs.), one washer will last you a very long time.

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RaYzerman19, would you happen to have the Honda part # for those Honda flat aluminum washers by any chance? I am not sure which Honda model to look up the p/n from.

Thanks for your help.

https://wingstuff.com/pgroup_detail/359_Oil_Filters_Wrench/27850_GL1500_GL1800_Gold_Wing_Crush_Washers_10_Pack/?goto=%2Fpgroup_list%2Fgl1800%2F359_goldwing_Oil_Filters_Wrench%2Fdes%2F

https://www.cyclemaxohio.com/inc/sdetail/58611

Here are a couple of sources. You can buy individually at Cyclemax and they will ship USPS I think. You could also try a hardware supply, as it is just an aluminum washer, 14mm ID, OD not that important. Note, you use this on the rear final drive also. My FJR had them on it when I got it (1800 miles), and had been changed by the dealer at first oil change.

The OEM Honda washer is more money, of course.