A cure for stiff bag locks

There have been several posts about the stiffness of the bag locks, with various inputs on lubricants or whatever to try to free them.

I had a bit of an issue with my first FJR's locks, but a periodic spray with thin oil was usually sufficient to keep them tolerable.

My new FJR was much worse in this respect (though better in many other ways). I've stripped down the locks a couple of times, cleaned them and used oil or PTFE spray lubricant, which helped a bit, but never stopped them being too stiff.

So I had another go to find out exactly what was causing the problem. It turns out the metal plate was rubbing quite hard on the plastic.

(Click on any image for larger view)



The arrows in the third pic show where it rubs.

So I undid the screws, then put thin washers between the metal plate and the lock barrel, so leaving a small gap between the plate and the plastic.



The washers I used were stainless to avoid corrosion, but probably a little too thick, the lock feels fairly loose (but doesn't affect its security at all).

At least my key won't bend!

If you do try this, be very careful not to drop the washers into the works, they just disappear (don't ask how I know). I used a little dob of Vaseline to hold the washers in place while I put the screws in.

Oh, yes, the "book" says use Loctite. (I didn't; nor did I on my first, my calibrated wrist seems able to do the screws up sufficiently to stop them loosening, but use your own judgement .)

I had the same problem with mine, good tip with the washer, another option is to file some of the plastic down, I'm going to do the same thing.

Thanks

I was told by the mechanics when I first got my bike in 2007 to just apply a little pressure on the lock before turning the key and have never had a problem since. Thought that this has already been mentioned in the archives. No additional work needed, I would rather be riding.

The loctite is suggested because over time, even if torqued tight, the screws seem to loosen up from vibration, so I suggest using loctite to others even if you wish not to.

You can buy thin teflon washers at many Lowes stores, I think these might work too. If I understand this right, the metal plate is keeping the lock from falling out, meaning if the screws fall out and the metal plate falls off, the lock will fall out to.

That gap controlls the "looseness" of the lock cylnder in the bags clasp then right? How does it get tighter over time? Is it gauling up the plastic...thus decreasing that gap?

Luckily I have not had a problem with tight locks, but I also think that when I turn the key I am pushing the key in...which may be taking the pressure off that plate.

Thanks for the tip however, it may come in handy later.

KM

rue56 said:

I was told by the mechanics when I first got my bike in 2007 to just apply a little pressure on the lock before turning the key and have never had a problem since. Thought that this has already been mentioned in the archives. No additional work needed, I would rather be riding.

Click to expand...

Mine was very tight even with pressure. Also, if you want to take your key out with the bag off the bike and carry handle up, it's not so easy to apply the pressure. Much better to have it move freely without needing any.

Knifemaker said:

...

You can buy thin teflon washers at many Lowes stores, I think these might work too. If I understand this right, the metal plate is keeping the lock from falling out, meaning if the screws fall out and the metal plate falls off, the lock will fall out too.

That gap controls the "looseness" of the lock cylnder in the bags clasp then right? How does it get tighter over time? Is it gauling up the plastic...thus decreasing that gap?

...

KM

Click to expand...

On mine, the cylinder turns freely within the plastic, no binding at all, so yes, it's just the length of the cylinder relative to the length of the plastic "tube".

I'd thought about using some form of plastic as a spacer, but decided it might "give" over time, and the screw would become loose (with my non-Loctited screws). Even Loctited, i wouldn't like to think of that plate being loose, goes against my view of what is "right".

As for the "tightening over time", I guess that initially the plastic is very smooth but does roughen with use. Maybe its dimensions change a little with temperature and humidity cycles? My dealer did lubricate them, they were then just about acceptable when new, but obviously the lubricant gets washed out and mud gets washed in. Even the PTFE spray was ony good for a week or so.

Now they turn as easily as anything, no pressure, not a hint of binding.

That's a great tip. Now if only Yamaha could make stronger keys, perhaps a titanium alloy

I've used powdered graphite on both my FJRs and my old Venture Bag locks. Works great. Hardly ever have to reapply it. Just shoot a little down into the lock and work the key up and down and turn it several times and you will be able to tell the difference.

GP

Good idea adding a thin spacer to the lock. Both of my saddlebag locks are loose enough that with a little downward pressure the key turns easily.

--G

Thanks MC, Great idea but, you have got to stop giving me all this neat stuff to do!

Great idea and post with pix, thank you.

Another option, push down on latch before turning the key.

**Edit**

rue56 said:

I was told by the mechanics when I first got my bike in 2007 to just apply a little pressure on the lock before turning the key and have never had a problem since. Thought that this has already been mentioned in the archives. No additional work needed, I would rather be riding.

Click to expand...

Gunny! I missed this one. :huh:

Great tip, thanks. Mine on my '10 are very stiff and I would prefer not to have to push down on them each time I open them. I'll put this on my to-do list. Thanks again.

I'm OK with stiff..altho sometimes a little boy butter is useful. Wait- never mind..

lnewlf said:

I'm OK with stiff..altho sometimes a little boy butter is useful. Wait- never mind..

Click to expand...

Ok...we don't need to know what you do with little boys :blink:

Before this becomes a NERT, I have not had an issue with three FJR's bag locks being hard to operate. It did not take long to figure out if you somply press down on the lever and turn the key it opens with very little resistance. I lube the locks with silicone spray from time to time,

Someone mentioned using graphite in the locks. That may be OK on locks but do not use it in the ignition key hole.

art miller said:

.... It did not take long to figure out if you somply press down on the lever and turn the key it opens with very little resistance. I lube the locks with silicone spray from time to time,...

Click to expand...

If pressing works for you, that's fine. It doesn't work for mine, with or without lubrication.

After putting in my spacers, turning the key is completely free of resistance, no pressing or anything. When you've arms full of stuff to put in the bag, it's so much easier, and no chance of bending the key when turning it.

Okie dokie, what ever works for you. Using Vaseline in that area and no Loctite is asking for a future Ah shit! You already shortened the thread length by shimming. That's my unsolicited 2 cents.

art miller said:

...Using Vaseline in that area and no Loctite is asking for a future Ah shit...

Click to expand...

In a diabolically clever way, he planned to trade it in before the locks could become a problem. Good planning in '11 when this thread started. So, did the locks come asunder before you upgraded your model year?

art miller said:

Okie dokie, what ever works for you. Using Vaseline in that area and no Loctite is asking for a future Ah shit! You already shortened the thread length by shimming. That's my unsolicited 2 cents.

Click to expand...

Let's see. Thickness of spacing washer: about 0.5 mm. Length of thread: about 8 mm (from memory). So, I've reduced the inserted thread by 1 part in 16, or about 6.25%. I don't think that's going to affect the strength of the threaded part to a dangerous degree.

Using Vaseline? So It's a lubricated thread. Now I know that whatever torque I apply is going into tensioning the thread, not some unknown amount of friction that reduces the feel of when it is tight, so that it might really still be not properly tensioned.

How loose did any of the 4 screws come over the three and a half years since I did this, until I prevented any problems by trading it in? (ionbeam obviously has a good handle on my thinking ) Zero. Zilch. None. Nada.

And I've done one of my 2014 bag locks, I'm shortly going to do the other one. (Obviously thinking of trading it in 2018 ) On my new one, the dealer did use Loctite, I've not used a thread lubricant, I've left the old Loctite to keep the thread stiff. As with the first pair I did, I will check them periodically, but I don't expect a problem.

Meanwhile, I can simple push my key in, and turn it so easily you wouldn't know it was moving anything.

Wouldn't it be simpler and easier to have rubbed the plastic down a mm or two with some emery paper, wouldn't even need to take the plate off, just loosen a little insert price of emery paper and drag back and forth over plastic till plate is not binding.