Isabella going in shop -> Maintence time

I'm mainly bringing in the bike to my friendly independent repair facility which is 60mi away...

for repair/replace the broken mid exhaust mounts coming off the centerstand pivots.

And the shop has received my rebuilt stock shock from Sasquatch Suspension ready for installation.

Now, no discussion; I've decided to have the shop do this work...firm decision...

Now, first question is to have a valve check / adjust ???

Engine was replaced at 93k or 38k mi ago and would be the first

Second: I have a brand new, never used, Gen II CCT...would you have it changed for the hell of it

There are no unusual sounds, marbles in the engine, or other symptoms coming from the engine

Third: my tire keeps cupping, and then calming down, but still has a ridge along the center inside...PR2

I have a set in the box in my living room...the tire has 14k on it, but I always wait till 20k plus (24k last time)

Should I replace it ? That one is my cheapskate question.

All responses with constructive reasoning are welcome, regardless of being Friday

And the more I ask for, the longer they will have the bike...

Mike, do you have any idea what the valve check history of the engine was before you got it? Has one EVER been done. Regardless, after 38k of your own miles I would definitely have it done.

As for the CCT, I would wait until the first starts going bad. I too have an updated CCT on hand, but am waiting for the tell-tale sound before doing anything. My first one lasted 90k miles, the second had 116k when I totaled the DOW and was fine.

Tire is your choice. How bad do you want the feel/handling of fresh rubber?

Don't fix doodoo that isn't broke. A lesson, to my eternal consternation, I never learned.

Patriot said:

Now, first question is to have a valve check / adjust ???

Engine was replaced at 93k or 38k mi ago and would be the first

Click to expand...

Absolutely!! Per Yammie manual, check every 26K. Nuff said.

Patriot said:

Second: I have a brand new, never used, Gen II CCT...would you have it changed for the hell of it

There are no unusual sounds, marbles in the engine, or other symptoms coming from the engine

Click to expand...

Well.. I blieve this is really a Gen1 thing maybe not. If not, yes. It's only about $80 with shipping and Ionbeams and I believe Howie's just went, BOOM! no indication. Check out my thread on this.

Patriot said:

Third: my tire keeps cupping, and then calming down, but still has a ridge along the center inside...PR2

I have a set in the box in my living room...the tire has 14k on it, but I always wait till 20k plus (24k last time)

Should I replace it ? That one is my cheapskate question.

Click to expand...

Mike - Spare me. You got 14K out of the tire? You're good brother, it's done, replace it now. Most come no where near that. 24K last time, all I can say is it's a miracle.
You don't want Isabella in ICU. :dribble:

Good luck and ride safe.

SkooterG said:

Mike, do you have any idea what the valve check history of the engine was before you got it? Has one EVER been done. Regardless, after 38k of your own miles I would definitely have it done.

As for the CCT, I would wait until the first starts going bad. I too have an updated CCT on hand, but am waiting for the tell-tale sound before doing anything. My first one lasted 90k miles, the second had 116k when I totaled the DOW and was fine.

Tire is your choice. How bad do you want the feel/handling of fresh rubber?

Click to expand...

ah, well, 93k...new used 10k engine installed...130+ mi now...total 38k mi with no check...my old engine with 93k miles had a check at 50k with no adjustment needed and that was the only one

I don't feel like researching the stats of % needing attention after checking at 26k and 52k, but I don't see why not do it other than I can't seem to find a Mon-Fri I don't absolutely need the bike till June

Guess it's worth waiting for...I'll trailer it in on Monday morning and pick it up Friday...well as long as

it doesn't need a valve adjustment AND he has the correct shims to do it

Last two PR2 fronts 1) 26k 2) 24k ... riding the Run For The Wall all slab from Dallas to DC to Nawlins' put quite a ridge on the front tire...I don't remember any issue with it like the little to moderate vibration off the front now...I'll have it changed then...I'm riding 2k+ a month these days...so, geeze, that tire is really gonna need changing and I just might have to do it locally like my rear PR2 I waited too long

I'll leave the CCT in the box for now

keep the opinions coming

I would do the valve check, the CCT and the tire. Just get it done. Why hold the CCT when you have the new improved better part. If it blows again and the new one is on your shelf you will never forgive yourself. They are already tearing most everything down when they do the valve check so do the CCT too.

johnny80s said:

I would do the valve check, the CCT and the tire. Just get it done. Why hold the CCT when you have the new improved better part. If it blows again and the new one is on your shelf you will never forgive yourself. They are already tearing most everything down when they do the valve check so do the CCT too.

Click to expand...

+1

20k out of a set of tires? I won't even go there other than to say my tire bill in those 20k miles would pay for valve check and the cct. Do all of it.

I just had Desert Valley Power do the first valve check on my 05. I was at 40k and last fall, I could swear I could hear a little rattling from the right side when idling. The valves all checked within tolerance and there was hardly no charge for labor to put the CCT in while they had it apart. Now she sounds like butter.

You with no apparant sounds coming from the right side, it's a hit or miss. But if you have the tensioner, ask the mechanics how much to put it in. If not too much go ahead.

I would install the newer CCT, why not? if you've already bought it the peace of mind will be worth it. Clearly you ride a ton so get it done while it's already torn down for the valve check.

update:

Shock installed, new front tire installed...bike returned on 3rd day

scheduled for hottest week of summer when I won't ride anyway (July?)...

Aaron checked under the tank and plan for valve check is to have on hand a valve cover gasket and ??? chain cover gasket?

bring it in on a Monday...will check late Mon or Tue and determine if and what shims are needed...either button it up with no additional attention needed, or 2nd day order shims or shim kit so bike can be picked up on Friday. CCT also will be replaced. I have a chain as well, but seems no need to replace with engine having 45k mi.

report:

all quite positive...

to be fair, the entire combination of Ebach fork springs, total rebuild of stock shock by Sasquatch Suspensions, and a brand new front PR2 have made the bike anew. I've ridden 600+ miles since getting the bike back from my local shop on Thur evening. Half those miles on the slab, but half on other roads and highways including today's to and fro hwy 90 sweepers where the bike easily let me take them at a constant +15mph over what felt safe before.

I could hardly be happier with $100 fork springs + $475 shock rebuild + $103.37 Derby Cycles front PR2 making the bike feel stable, planted, and safer.

It's even more funner to ride her...

let's ride safe and be careful out there,

Mike in Nawlins'

Mike I would ride that old girl till she spit up blood. Then I would trade her for a hotter younger genII with a sluttier name!!!

Barry 07 FJR1300AE said:

Mike I would ride that old girl till she spit up blood. Then I would trade her for a hotter younger genII with a sluttier name!!!

Click to expand...

no way could I afford to "RE" Farkle a Gen II...plus, why purchase inferior equipment

Patriot said:

Barry 07 FJR1300AE said:

Mike I would ride that old girl till she spit up blood. Then I would trade her for a hotter younger genII with a sluttier name!!!

Click to expand...

no way could I afford to "RE" Farkle a Gen II...plus, why purchase inferior equipment

Click to expand...

I knew that was coming.

My 2003, which I acquired this past winter, is currently in the shop for a pre-season check-up. I have no idea what the maintenance history was.

The valves were all within tolerance, but the CCT was pretty well shot (I didn't notice it, because I'd never ridden an FJR before and didn't know how they were supposed to sound.

The mechanic said the FJR valves tend to stay in proper adjustment, but CCT's routinely wear out. Mine has 72K on it.

Barry 07 FJR1300AE said:

Patriot said:

Barry 07 FJR1300AE said:

Mike I would ride that old girl till she spit up blood. Then I would trade her for a hotter younger genII with a sluttier name!!!

Click to expand...

no way could I afford to "RE" Farkle a Gen II...plus, why purchase inferior equipment

Click to expand...

I knew that was coming.

Click to expand...

Do you really want to see a 130db Stebel frame slider on a Gen II.... I don't

Mike, How would you compare the shock rebuild -vs- newish OEM?

Ol' Patriot's got me thinking: I shouldn't have tossed OEM shock #1 and OEM shock #2, because I would consider having them rebuilt when OEM #3 starts to feel sacked.

ScottyUSN said:

Barry 07 FJR1300AE said:

Patriot said:

Barry 07 FJR1300AE said:

Mike I would ride that old girl till she spit up blood. Then I would trade her for a hotter younger genII with a sluttier name!!!

Click to expand...

no way could I afford to "RE" Farkle a Gen II...plus, why purchase inferior equipment

Click to expand...

I knew that was coming.

Click to expand...

Do you really want to see a 130db Stebel frame slider on a Gen II.... I don't

Mike, How would you compare the shock rebuild -vs- newish OEM?

Click to expand...

newish was maybe 25% better...I'm comparing the same sweeper road near me I ride all the time

'04 bike with 70k miles, and coming off a 750 cruiser and a '83 Goldwing, the bike felt fast and stable

now that was at 199#, but with two up pretty often with my wife or one of my two daughters

I however had to run the preload on "hard" or the bike would "wallow"

newish OEM shock at 93k mi (Zorkler reported it had like 12k on it when he replaced it with aftermarked)

bike was like 25% better and I had grown to 210#

now I feel with it custom valved and sprung to my now 221#, it's 100% better than new OEM

now we must factor in the additional of Ebach fork springs (stock everything else) per GP suspensions recommendation to my weight/riding style

and a brand new front PR2

At 133k mi, now I can ride that ride with confidence not feeling I'm on the edge 15mph faster than before

it's set on "soft" and only will kick to "hard" with two up per Jay

I need to ask him if the rebuilt includes adjustable damping...compression and/or rebound...I have no reason to change it, but I thought I'd find out anyway

PRICELESS

I'm not certain that all 2nd gen CCTs are the new and improved version. Make sure that yours has a blue dot and the plunger sticks out further (have to compare to pictures unless you have an old one to compare to).

Having held (and fa-diddled) two different copies of the older, unimproved, wimpy spring-ed, original version CCT, and a my new and improved (currently installed) version, in my own hands, I would put the new one in whenever it is convenient (like during a valve check) rather than waiting for the dreaded bad noises. You've already been bitten once. Why risk it? It can go bad in a short time and is one of the very few things on these bikes that can leave you stranded in BFE.

Besides that, all I have to say is: How the hell to you get that much mileage on your tires? My rear PR2 gave out at only ~ 9k miles and I ride like an old man. I find your mileages truly amazing.

Fred W said:

Besides that, all I have to say is: How the hell to you get that much mileage on your tires? My rear PR2 gave out at only ~ 9k miles and I ride like an old man. I find your mileages truly amazing.

Click to expand...

I think he puts it on the center stand and runs it a few hundred miles each week! That or he can't add and subtract! Only because I know you Mike!!!