OES Frame Sliders - Why Different?

Hello Everyone,

 

I've been reading about every 'slider' thread I've come across here. I've decided I'll likely get a set of OES frame sliders. But, first, I'd like to know:

 

Why are the sliders different lengths?

 

One might 'assume' the bike was built more or less symmetrically. Mine's in the shop. I'm guessing, might it be to do with center stand lever, or some other appendage causing asymmetry?

 

Thoughts?

On my Gen I, '04 with R&G sliders, the motor mount bolts are different lengths side to side...so slider bolts and spacers differ, but the sliders themselves are same size (I think) and are definitely symetrical once installed

JT Pedersen said:

Hello Everyone,

 

I've been reading about every 'slider' thread I've come across here. I've decided I'll likely get a set of OES frame sliders. But, first, I'd like to know:

 

Why are the sliders different lengths?

 

One might 'assume' the bike was built more or less symmetrically. Mine's in the shop. I'm guessing, might it be to do with center stand lever, or some other appendage causing asymmetry?

 

Thoughts?

Click to expand...

Good Day,

The fairings externally appear symmetrical, but beause you using the engine mount bolts they have to fit slightly different.

Glenn

They don't start the same distance from the centerline, I would guess. Cam chain at one end of the engine, stator at the other, not the same size stuff hanging off either end, so the engine's not actually in the center of the structure. If it were, the left side lean clearance would be less.

Depth of mounting bolt location behind the plastic is different. As Patriot mentioned, once installed they will be visually symmetrical.

Hello Everyone,

Thank you for the responses. I'm trying to reach OES to get their input as well.

From the responses, couple thoughts:



Note, the bolts themselves appear to be the same length. Certainly closer to each other than are the sliders themselves in the picture. Clearly, the sliders differ ~3/4". For the person who cares to look from the front, I expect the discriminating eye will easily note the difference.

Cosmetically, from what I recall, there's no significant difference between left to right side as regards the Gen II engine mount positioning.

Anyone who has an OES install (not sure of the current respondents who may be an OES owner) able to comment specifically?

JT, my man... you are overthinking this whole thing!

As mentioned by previous posters, when the product is installed as per instructions, they are symmetrical in appearance on the bike.

If you are this wrapped around the axle concerning a couple of tip over guards, what the hell is going to happen to you when you consider something really important, like an aftermarket seat! :blink:

 

Just busting your chops a bit here, and hope you're not offended by my attempt at humor.

Trust us when we say they fit, they work well, they appear fine! :yahoo:

Oh, and a belated welcome to the forum from Washington State!

Don

JT Pedersen said:

Hello Everyone,

Thank you for the responses. I'm trying to reach OES to get their input as well.

From the responses, couple thoughts:

Note, the bolts themselves appear to be the same length. Certainly closer to each other than are the sliders themselves in the picture. Clearly, the sliders differ ~3/4". For the person who cares to look from the front, I expect the discriminating eye will easily note the difference.

Cosmetically, from what I recall, there's no significant difference between left to right side as regards the Gen II engine mount positioning.

Anyone who has an OES install (not sure of the current respondents who may be an OES owner) able to comment specifically?

Click to expand...

The bike's structure is asymmetrical, dude. The sliders are different lengths so they'll look the same once installed.

My R&G sliders are actually interchangeable, but the sleeve at the base of the slider, between the delrin and the bike's frame, is different left to right. Again, it's the bike that's lopsided at the frame, to offset the engine slightly to one side, to equalize ground clearance on each side.

Your basic assumption is incorrect: that the bike's structure is perfectly centered.

dsmack said:

JT, my man... you are overthinking this whole thing!

As mentioned by previous posters, when the product is installed as per instructions, they are symmetrical in appearance on the bike.

If you are this wrapped around the axle concerning a couple of tip over guards, what the hell is going to happen to you when you consider something really important, like an aftermarket seat! :blink:

 

Just busting your chops a bit here, and hope you're not offended by my attempt at humor.

Trust us when we say they fit, they work well, they appear fine! :yahoo:

Oh, and a belated welcome to the forum from Washington State!

Don

Click to expand...

Ha Ha Don

No offense, it is funny. And, I've no doubt they'll fit just fine. Figured it a simple question yet, yet the range of responses have proven entertaining. If OES sends me a response I'll share it, otherwise I'm done<g>.

By the way, I was in Washington on part of my search for work, this past February. Met with folks in Seattle and then in Spokane. Drove the length of the state twice (once on '90, then on '2). What a drop-dead gorgeous state you have. Still trying, but finding an opportunity there's proving elusive. Eugene seemed ideal from a weather perspective.

wfooshee said:

The bike's structure is asymmetrical, dude. The sliders are different lengths so they'll look the same once installed.

My R&G sliders are actually interchangeable, but the sleeve at the base of the slider, between the delrin and the bike's frame, is different left to right. Again, it's the bike that's lopsided at the frame, to offset the engine slightly to one side, to equalize ground clearance on each side.

Your basic assumption is incorrect: that the bike's structure is perfectly centered.

Click to expand...

+1 on what wfooshee said.

Basically, If you lift the bike on the centerstand and you had a proper measuring device, you'd see that the distance between dead center of the bike,

(I picked dead center between the front forks) and the end of both sliders are identical. NO! I'm not anal, It's Sunday and raining like Hell so, I'M BORED!

Welcome from the Sunny State of Florida (When it's Not Raining)! where there are No Hills, No matter what wfooshee says!!

I have OES sliders, and they look like they came on the bike. You wont pay attention to them anyway.

I have the OES sliders. See post #5.. Just remember to follow the instruction. Ensuring the two engine mount bolts are not removed at the same time.

+1 on the OES - I love em and there is no noticeable difference right to left once on the bike. Put 'em on and ride.

follow the instructions...one side is done first...definitely properly torque them per the instructions

there's some controversy over locktite...I did not use any...in fact, I used a bit of "never seize"

They are like that due to the mounting points not being identical from side to side. The length difference is .5". Not many models we make sliders for are built symmetrically in a way that allows us to make the right and left sliders exactly the same.

Patriot said:

follow the instructions...one side is done first...definitely properly torque them per the instructions

there's some controversy over locktite...I did not use any...in fact, I used a bit of "never seize"

Click to expand...

Mike: Timely comment. This was something I'd thought about as well. My expectation is, as long as they're properly torqued, nothing further should be required. I will consult my shop service manual as well as OES install instructions. The service manual will call out whether the OEM fastener needs a thread-lock.

JT Pedersen said:

Patriot said:

follow the instructions...one side is done first...definitely properly torque them per the instructions

there's some controversy over locktite...I did not use any...in fact, I used a bit of "never seize"

Click to expand...

Mike: Timely comment. This was something I'd thought about as well. My expectation is, as long as they're properly torqued, nothing further should be required. I will consult my shop service manual as well as OES install instructions. The service manual will call out whether the OEM fastener needs a thread-lock.

Click to expand...

On our Gen I's, the slider goes through a hole we make in the side panels

so everytime we need to check coolant or air filter, etc...we have to remove the sliders to get the panels off

I want to protect the motor mount holes in the engine...I'm sure they are aluminum and the bolts are steel

I figure no loctite and the never sieze tend to prolong or protect the engine mount holes

Gen II's...I understand the sliders are through the side panel vents, but I assume they still have to be removed to get the panels off

someone has mentioned the holes got stripped and now are helicoiled

JT ~ What kind of work are you looking for up here in the PNW?

It IS a great area for motorcyclists... February notwithstanding! :angry2:

We'd love to have you here...

Don

Patriot said:

Gen II's...I understand the sliders are through the side panel vents, but I assume they still have to be removed to get the panels off

Click to expand...

Nope. I pull my plastic all the time without removing the sliders on my Gen II.