fjr diagnostic mode - please help!

Hi,

I have a 2007 FJR1300A. a while ago my headlamps just stopped working for no apparent reason. when i turn on the bike the dashboard lights up but the headlights don't. also the high beam blue tale light doesn't turn on.

I checked the bulbs and they look fine, I also checked the 25A fuse, and it looks fine also.

I just discovered that i can put the bike in diagnostic mode, hoping there was some setting i could fiddle with, but it doesn't let me change anything.

Anyway, can anyone check my Diagnostic codes and see if anything draws your attention?

D 01 16

D 03 100

D 05 52

D 06 88

D 07 0

D 08 6

D 09 11.4

D 20 ON

D 21 ON

D 30 00

D 31 00

D 36 00

D 37 00

D 38 00

D 39 00

D 48 00

D 50 00

D 51 00

D 52 00

D 57 00

D 60 00

D 61 14

D 62 4

D 70 0

please help!

thank you

damiano

Several comments... headlights won't light until after engine has been started. Second, off the top of my head, I don't recall any of the diagnostic codes are related to lighting functions. Finally, there is a factory recall regarding a grounding harness. Even if your headlights do light after starting engine, I would follow up with recall.

+1 The other possibility to look into is the relay that controls the headlights might be faulty.

diAG codes. There are readout codes that display sensor outputs and codes that display ON/OFF for switches like the side stand and neutral switch. Then there are Actuator Codes that let you do things like fire the coils, injectors and turn on relays.

If your headlight relay is not working the high beam light will not work. diAG code 52 is an Actuator Code that turns the headlight relay ON/OFF when the red Run/Stop switch on the right handlebar is turned OFF then ON again. There is one main headlight relay that supplies power to a second relay that controls low/high beams. If this relay is bad you will have no headlights, if the second relay is bad you will have low beams but no high beams. As previously mentioned, the ECU will not turn on the headlight relay until the engine is running.

Do check with your dealer to see if the ground harness has been replaced. Call or stop by a Yamaha dealer and give them your VIN, from that they can check to see if all the recalls on your Gen II have been done.

The power relays on Gen IIs do fail so that can't be ruled out. Getting to the relays requires taking the plastic off the nose of the bike (which requires taking all the other plastic off).

Edit: Cross post, I see that 'fitter has already outed the headlight relay.

ionbeam said:

diAG codes.

If your headlight relay is not working the high beam light will not work. diAG code 52 is an Actuator Code that turns the headlight relay ON/OFF when the red Run/Stop switch on the right handlebar is turned OFF then ON again. There is one main headlight relay that supplies power to a second relay that controls low/high beams. If this relay is bad you will have no headlights, if the second relay is bad you will have low beams but no high beams. As previously mentioned, the ECU will not turn on the headlight relay until the engine is running.

Click to expand...

ok, so I checked in diagnostic mode d 52, I turned on/off the red switch, I could hear something clicking inside, but no light whatsoever. Is that meaning that the headlight relay is busted? does the engine have to be running to see lights on/off in diagnostic mode? if that's the case you're a genius!

my wire harness has been replaced by Yamaha, but I cannot go back to the dealer because since then I moved to the UK and yamaha warranty doesn't work here

Anyway, I'm going to buy a electrical tester, check the headlight relay and report back.

PS what's the headlight relay yamaha code?

thank you guys for the input!!!

damiano

Denver_FJR said:

Several comments... headlights won't light until after engine has been started. Second, off the top of my head, I don't recall any of the diagnostic codes are related to lighting functions. Finally, there is a factory recall regarding a grounding harness. Even if your headlights do light after starting engine, I would follow up with recall.

Click to expand...

yes, after starting the bike, still no light.. grounding harness recall done, thanks

I am wondering since the entire harmess was replaced iff one of the connectors was not properly installed and has come loose.

Before you get too far into disassembly of all the tupperware it might be worthwhile to go back and recheck the fuse. I am assuming you where only able to do a visual inspection and sometime it is possible to miss the fault with the fuse. It is worthwhile to have some spare fuses anyways so I would just try replacing the fuse first to save all the work involved in getting the nose off.

If it is the fuse you just saved yourself a ton of work.

To access the relay I have to take the nose off? isn't it just behind the black plastics below the speedometer? Anyway, I just ordered an electrical tester, so before I start digging I'll do a quick check

Thank you

damianomigani said:

ok, so I checked in diagnostic mode d 52, I turned on/off the red switch, I could hear something clicking inside, but no light whatsoever. Is that meaning that the headlight relay is busted? does the engine have to be running to see lights on/off in diagnostic mode?...

Click to expand...

What you heard clicking was the coil of the headlight relay pulling in the mechanical switch contacts. If the contacts of the relay are damaged the relay can still click but not pass sufficient power to illuminate the headlights. Yes, the headlights should turn ON when the headlight relay is activated via diAG 52, even when the engine is off. I have done this on my FJR and can confirm that the headlight does turn on with the engine off. The Gen II FSM says the following:

Actuates the headlight relay (ON/OFF) for five cycles of five seconds. (ON 2 seconds, OFF 3 seconds).

Illuminates the engine trouble warning light and headlight.

 

If you hear the coil of the headlight relay clicking then the Headlight Fuse has to be good and power is going to the power contact in the headlight relay.

 

Assuming that the headlight relay is good (it may well be bad, but just saying...) power from the headlight relay passes through Coupler 5 (Front cowling wire harness) to the HI/LO beam relay. If the main headlight relay is good, the HI/LO beam relay will always power the low beams, it can't be turned off. If your FJR is a World model it will have a Flash to Pass switch, this switch should always turn on the high beams regardless of the headlight relay.

 

To access the relays you have to take the nose off. Quite unfortunately, the relays aren't accessible under the speedometer like you would expect.

 

Ok, so if I hear the clicking noise, it means the fuse is ok. If the clicking is not followed by headlights turning on/off, then it definitely means the relay is not working. It might be that is disconnected or that is fried, but that must be the cause.

I can't believe I have to take the headlamp off.. It's such a pain! Why didn't they put it in front with the other relays..

I guess I'll have a busy weekend!

I'll keep u posted.

Thanks so much!

Damiano

Edit: actually it can't be that it's disconnected, otherwhise I wouldn't hear clicking.. So. New relay it is.

Really good read #1 and really good read #2. Thank you dcarver!

Were it not for the inoperative blue high beam indicator I would ask if you checked to see if the headlight bulbs are actually bad. Us Forumites have seen simultaneous double headlight burn-outs happen before.The missing high beam indicator strongly says that the main headlight relay is bad or Coupler 5 has pin problems.

damianomigani said:

...I have a 2007 FJR1300A...Anyway, can anyone check my Diagnostic codes and see if anything draws your attention?

D 61 14

D 62 4

Click to expand...

D 61 (Malfunction History Codes) indicates that your ECU has seen error code 14 which is: Intake air pressure sensor: hose system malfunction (clogged or detached hose)

D 62 (Malfunction History Clear) shows that this code has been detected 4 times.

We have seen the hose to the Intake Air Pressure Sensor get plugged with spooge from the throttle bodies. A quick Q-Tip swish and things are good as new.

You may want to erase the malfunction history and see if it sets any new codes. Don't sweat Code 14, the ECU uses a look-up table if the sensor is out of range and you won't be able to tell it ever happened. The engine will always be Able with no operating problems and it will not leave you stranded.

ionbeam said:

To access the relays you have to take the nose off. Quite unfortunately, the relays aren't accessible under the speedometer like you would expect.

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Click to expand...

I read here that the headlight relay is located just next to the battery.. ConstantMesh has a GenI, so maybe it was moved in Gen II.

yesterday though while taking the cowling apart, I saw a relay just in front of the battery, but I didn't know if it was the right one. Are you sure I have to take the nose off? Just want to make sure before I embark in a major service..

Cheers,

damian

The other possibility is that you are experiencing a "spider bite" of the 2 spiders that are located in the nose. The Yamaha recall does not address these 2 spiders and the spider failure I had was one of them that caused my headlights to flicker occasionally and finally fail completely. For more info, check THIS THREAD .

If I remember correctly, the headlight relay is located above the headlights in the nose area and is very difficult (impossible?) to access while the nose is installed on the bike. Removing the whole nose assembly sounds like an impossible job, but its actually not too horrible. Check One of our members excellent guide to learn how to pull the nose assembly.

Harald said:

Check One of our members excellent guide to learn how to pull the nose assembly.

Click to expand...

I actually posted the wrong link above. If you just want to pull the plastic, use the link above. But there's a post somewhere that deals with pulling the entire assembly. When I pulled the nose assy off my bike, I pulled the WHOLE thing and I think that's the easier way to do it. You end up with the plastic and everything inside it (instrument cluster/windshield drive/mirrors/etc) sitting on your bench.

Harald said:

Harald said:

Check One of our members excellent guide to learn how to pull the nose assembly.

Click to expand...

I actually posted the wrong link above. If you just want to pull the plastic, use the link above. But there's a post somewhere that deals with pulling the entire assembly. When I pulled the nose assy off my bike, I pulled the WHOLE thing and I think that's the easier way to do it. You end up with the plastic and everything inside it (instrument cluster/windshield drive/mirrors/etc) sitting on your bench.

Click to expand...

Not quite.

Yes it's the easiest way to go for sure. DAMHIKT <_< .

But you will have to first remove the mirrors to be able to remove the front nose assy.

And you will remove the panels that make up the nose faring assy along with the headlamp bucket as a unit, but leave the instrument cluster still attached to the bike.

Fred W said:

Harald said:

Harald said:

Check One of our members excellent guide to learn how to pull the nose assembly.

Click to expand...

I actually posted the wrong link above. If you just want to pull the plastic, use the link above. But there's a post somewhere that deals with pulling the entire assembly. When I pulled the nose assy off my bike, I pulled the WHOLE thing and I think that's the easier way to do it. You end up with the plastic and everything inside it (instrument cluster/windshield drive/mirrors/etc) sitting on your bench.

Click to expand...

Not quite.

Yes it's the easiest way to go for sure. DAMHIKT <_< .

But you will have to first remove the mirrors to be able to remove the front nose assy.

And you will remove the panels that make up the nose faring assy along with the headlamp bucket as a unit, but leave the instrument cluster still attached to the bike.

Click to expand...

Maybe the Gen I is different, but I most definitely had the whole assembly off and that included the mirrors and instrument cluster on my Gen II. I could have included the windshield also, but removed it first because it's too bulky to handle the nose assy with windshield also attached. And the OP has the exact same year as mine, so I'd suggest taking the whole assy off. I'll have to look and see if I can find the post where someone detailed how to pull it.

Gen 1 must be different then.

Fred W said:

Gen 1 must be different then.

Click to expand...

No, it's only the folks riding Gen I that are 'different'.