If you have a reliable dealer, I would suggest you get them to do the first service. Not because you couldn't do as good a job but because you want it to be their problem if there are issues related to initial assembly. For instance, some things such as oil pan drain bolts, oil filters etc. may have been tightened by a gorilla in the factory. Stripped oil pan threads are not unknown!My 2011 has about 550 miles on it now. What about the 600 mile service? What's involved? Do I need to pay the dealer to do it?
tia
And keep all receipts for legal proof that it was done just in case!If you have a reliable dealer, I would suggest you get them to do the first service. Not because you couldn't do as good a job but because you want it to be their problem if there are issues related to initial assembly. For instance, some things such as oil pan drain bolts, oil filters etc. may have been tightened by a gorilla in the factory. Stripped oil pan threads are not unknown!My 2011 has about 550 miles on it now. What about the 600 mile service? What's involved? Do I need to pay the dealer to do it?
tia
If, on the other hand, you do not have full confidence in the service department at your dealer, do it yourself if you have reasonable wrench-turning skills.
Ross
Actually what they do OR at least they are suppose to do is change for any bits of metal in any of the fluids.I had my dealer do my first one, for the same reasons mentioned earlier. They charged me $150, and I rather doubt they did all the things that the manual specifies. I had to argue with them about changing the final drive oil, even though it's clearly called for. If your dealer is anything like mine, they don't get a lot of FJR experience.
I did it, easiest oil change I've ever did.My 2011 has about 550 miles on it now. What about the 600 mile service? What's involved? Do I need to pay the dealer to do it?
tia
I can't remember who first posted this but it works for me - when mating the wheel with the splines insert the axle from the left hand side and use that as a guide. Keeps everything nice and secure while you are getting things lined up.No need to start a new thread so resurrecting this one to say I launched into my 600 mile service today and had fun. I had already done an extra early change of both engine oil/filter and rear gear oil at around 250 miles, but I noticed that the rear gear oil was still quite full of tiny shiny metal flakes this time around at 695 miles.
I used the Yamalube specified oil for the rear drive this time and will probably do that from now on for no particular reason. I did a finger tip consistency test between the Yamalube and the 75-90 weight Lucas Synthetic gear oil and noticed the Yamalube was actually much thicker, and seemingly more viscous. I'm no expert, it was just a noticeable difference.
That's all basic, but what I also did tonight for the first time was to remove my rear wheel and remove the pumpkin and lube all the gear splines. I bought the Honda Moly 60 and used it. Getting the wheel off was easy and removing the axle was easy. The factory had put very little grease on the splines. They weren't dry, but close to it. It's all buttoned up now and torqued to specs. Hardest part, which wasn't very hard, was getting the wheel splines to mate back up with the drive splines.
Later this week I will check the other things for the 600 mile service. I already checked the torque on the steering nut and it was good.
Man it feels good to maintain this machine. It purrs like a kitten, or more like a jet engine--I love the sound.
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