Driveshaft Spline Lube

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Sparky.88

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My thanks to Warchild for ‘FJR Tech’ and particularly the write-up on performing a driveshaft spline lube.

I bought my ’04 FJR last year w/about 18K on the clock. I had no idea whether the driveshaft splines had ever been lubed since leaving the factory. And after reading accounts of FJR’s leaving the factory with very little driveshaft spline lube, I decided to take mine apart and have a look.

The pic’s below are what I found. Not good. Actually, there was a little grease on the gears back in the pumpkin; I had wiped them off a little prior to taking the photos. But they definitely needed some attention. The splines up front on the driveshaft were almost devoid of any lube. You can see the corrosion started there from being so dry.

The job when very smoothly thanks to the excellent ‘FJR Tech’ write-up. I slathered on a layer of Honda Pro Moly 60 before re-assembling everything. For those who have not done this maintenance item, it really is quite simple. Removing the rear wheel is probably the hardest part (and it’s not very hard either). Well worth the effort for the health of your bike.

DriveshaftSpline.jpg


DriveshaftPumpkin2.jpg


DriveshaftPumpkin1.jpg


 
Sparky,

good that you went in there to set things right. I don't think the splines look that bad but you've definitely improved their long term survivability by giving them a good lube.

Did you also do the u-joint? If not here's a link for next time.

https://www.bikes-n-spikes.org/maint/ujoint/uj.html

its only a few more minutes work and makes you feel that much better.

 
Oh that figures... <_< Didn't know about the u-joint. I'm still fairly new on this bike. Other than very basic maintenance (fluids / filters), I'm just getting into the more involved maintenance items. I suppose I'll dig back in there fairly soon to lube the u-joint. Thanks for the tip / link!

 
This is what my 0 mile 10 looked like when I did it.

spline%20front.jpg


spline%20rear.jpg


I was surprised by the rear part and all the rust, but at least the front had lube on it. Moly 60 and some sand paper, and I used bearing grease on the rest of it to help coat it as I did not like the rust at all.

 
Why stop there? Service the swing arm too! https://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/sa/sa.html
Good idea. Thanks!

I was surprised by the rear part and all the rust, but at least the front had lube on it. Moly 60 and some sand paper, and I used bearing grease on the rest of it to help coat it as I did not like the rust at all.
Ouch... That rust is really surprising. I applied a coating of silicon-based dry wax lubricant to the entire driveshaft to keep it coated and help keep oxidation at bay.

I can see myself attending to all these lubrication chores at each rear wheel change in the future.

 
Remember that these bikes are shipped (as in over the sea) here from the plant. Sea air ain't good for anything on the bike (paint, metal, electrics, hydraulics, etc.).

 
I have my rear wheel off right now to replace my rear tire. I am new to the FJR. When you remove the 4 bolts to get to the spines, do you have to drain the rear gear oil. And do you need to replace any gaskets or o rngs before you reassemble. My local deal has to order every single part it seems. I would rather order ahead if time if needed.

 
I have my rear wheel off right now to replace my rear tire. I am new to the FJR. When you remove the 4 bolts to get to the spines, do you have to drain the rear gear oil. And do you need to replace any gaskets or o rngs before you reassemble. My local deal has to order every single part it seems. I would rather order ahead if time if needed.
No need to drain oil or order parts. The pumpkin comes off as a unit,with the drive shaft attached. Yamaha did a great job on engineering the final drive. Very simple.

 
I have my rear wheel off right now to replace my rear tire. I am new to the FJR. When you remove the 4 bolts to get to the spines, do you have to drain the rear gear oil. And do you need to replace any gaskets or o rngs before you reassemble. My local deal has to order every single part it seems. I would rather order ahead if time if needed.
Yup, just pulls out.

A few pictures I took when I did mine:

(Click on image for largest view)



 
When you put it back together, leave the 4 nuts loose installed, reassemble the rear wheel and axle first, then tighten up the 4 nuts...... all so it is in correct alignment............

 
I have my rear wheel off right now to replace my rear tire. I am new to the FJR. When you remove the 4 bolts to get to the spines, do you have to drain the rear gear oil. And do you need to replace any gaskets or o rngs before you reassemble. My local deal has to order every single part it seems. I would rather order ahead if time if needed.
If you can plan ahead, it's easy to save 30% or more on part when you order them online. Places like ronayers.com or boats.net or yamahasportsplaza.com offer big saving on OEM Yamaha parts. I know some peeps like to support their local dealer when buying parts and there's nothing wrong with that, but I like saving money to put in my FJR tank to burn off.

 
Thank guys. Lubed the spines today. As you said, real easy. Darn tire didn't come in yet so I am in shipping limbo for a few more days. Another quick question though.. on the outside of the gear on the final drive gear there is a rubber seal that mates to a rubber seal on the wheel. Do you leave that dry or lube it with something?

Also, in looking at the shop manual on the final drive section, it doesn't warn about alignment before torquing the 4 bolts. I believe experience and will follow the standard forum proceedure. But I am scratching my head to understand how it can become "not aligned". :) I just hate not understanding fully. The shaft is spring loaded. The torque tube has no movement for and aft. Side to side for the shaft does not seem not possible. What goes out of alignment? Something else?

 
Nothing gets "out of alignment." Just people being cautious. May not make it any better, but doesn't hurt either. So long as you get it all back together without any extra parts in your hand, you should be fine.

 
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