Close Call! No oil in shaft drive.

Came home on the bike after doing some work on the boat and after parking and finishing outside work, the dog dropped her ball at my feet and it rolled to the rear tire. As I bent down, I noticed some fine droplets near the licence plate. I figured it was spray from the neighbours hose or something but as I looked closer I realized that didnt make any sense. I then saw a film of oil all around my rim and ultimately saw the shaft oil drain bolt was missing. There was also a small pool of oil beneath it.

I couldnt have been with oil for more than 40 miles as that was round trip from home. More than likely though I think I lost it in the past few miles. Before I take it out again (after getting a bolt and putting new oil in), is there anything I should check for to ensure no damage?

I would just refill and good to ride, Who changed the final drive oil last?

With a small oil pool under the drive there's hope. I'm with ahchiu^^^ fill'r back up and listen for any odd noises.

--G

First, good dog! Give her a tasty biscuit!

Yamaha final drives are pretty tough, so for such a short ride, and seeing as there was still some lubrication in there, I wouldn't worry overmuch.

You can check for any weird noises by using an engine stethoscope. With the bike on the center stand, spin the rear wheel while listening for any grinding/clunking/grating noises.

(If you don't have access to a real steth, you can simply use a stick: Press one end firmly against the drive housing, and the other at your ear)

And make sure your back tire is clean!

I always add a little "Auto Goop" to enusre the drain bolt does not back out. I also safety wire the engine oil drain plug.

Canadian FJR

New drain bolt, new gear oil, spin to check for for noise, sit back, have a nice cold beer, thank the gods of speed, cause you're one lucky fucker.

It might not be a bad idea to change the oil after 50 to 100 miles. Look for chunks as well as get em out of there.

NMRoadRunner said:

New drain bolt, new gear oil, spin to check for for noise, sit back, have a nice cold beer, thank the gods of speed, cause you're one lucky fucker.

Click to expand...

Lucky for sure.

I was washing my bike the other day and saw oil around the rim, the shaft oil drain bolt was halfway out and since then I make sure it is properly torque to 17 ft-pound with a torque wrench.

TouringRider said:

NMRoadRunner said:

New drain bolt, new gear oil, spin to check for for noise, sit back, have a nice cold beer, thank the gods of speed, cause you're one lucky fucker.

Click to expand...

Lucky for sure.

I was washing my bike the other day and saw oil around the rim, the shaft oil drain bolt was halfway out and since then I make sure it is properly torque to 17 ft-pound with a torque wrench.

Click to expand...

Damn! What the hell is going on? 350,000 miles on FJRs and never once has that bold loosened on it's own. Now my anal-retentive side does make me replace the crush washer every time, but that make's it easy-peasy to properley torque without a torque wrench. Just tighten until you feel it get significantly harder.

If not real busy roads, take a slow ride retracing your steps. You may find the bolt as they are pretty big and then you would know how far you went with little lube. Would save you the cost of a new drain plug assuming it is not damaged by tires hitting it.

SkooterG said:

Damn! What the hell is going on? 350,000 miles on FJRs and never once has that bold loosened on it's own. Now my anal-retentive side does make me replace the crush washer every time, but that make's it easy-peasy to properley torque without a torque wrench. Just tighten until you feel it get significantly harder.

Click to expand...

Scooter uses Gunther's method, GoodnTight

bucky said:

If not real busy roads, take a slow ride retracing your steps. You may find the bolt as they are pretty big and then you would know how far you went with little lube. Would save you the cost of a new drain plug assuming it is not damaged by tires hitting it.

Click to expand...

Or just follow the oil slick back to it's beginning!

NMRoadRunner said:

New drain bolt, new gear oil, spin to check for for noise, sit back, have a nice cold beer, thank the gods of speed, cause you're one lucky fucker.

Click to expand...

aMEN TOO THAT! :yahoo:

ahchiu said:

I would just refill and good to ride, Who changed the final drive oil last?

Click to expand...

I did. About 700 kms prior.

gixxerjasen said:

And make sure your back tire is clean!

Click to expand...

Twas good advice! Left side was an accident waiting to happen. :good:

Canadian FJR said:

I always add a little "Auto Goop" to enusre the drain bolt does not back out. I also safety wire the engine oil drain plug.

Canadian FJR

Click to expand...

Please explain. You mean that gooey goo glue? You put that over the bolt?

NMRoadRunner said:

New drain bolt, new gear oil, spin to check for for noise, sit back, have a nice cold beer, thank the gods of speed, cause you're one lucky fucker.

Click to expand...

Agreed. I was about to head 'home' (700 kms away) when I noticed.

Chuck35 said:

It might not be a bad idea to change the oil after 50 to 100 miles. Look for chunks as well as get em out of there.

Click to expand...

Never thought of this. I shall. Thanks.

SkooterG said:

TouringRider said:

NMRoadRunner said:

New drain bolt, new gear oil, spin to check for for noise, sit back, have a nice cold beer, thank the gods of speed, cause you're one lucky fucker.

Click to expand...

Lucky for sure.

I was washing my bike the other day and saw oil around the rim, the shaft oil drain bolt was halfway out and since then I make sure it is properly torque to 17 ft-pound with a torque wrench.

Click to expand...

Damn! What the hell is going on? 350,000 miles on FJRs and never once has that bold loosened on it's own. Now my anal-retentive side does make me replace the crush washer every time, but that make's it easy-peasy to properley torque without a torque wrench. Just tighten until you feel it get significantly harder.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I don't get it either. I have NEVER had this happen. You might recall a year ago when I got the bike and changed the shaft oil I made some post about the the crush washer and the fact I had never changed it (it was squished onto the bolt and I didnt notice it was there). I made a point to make sure I installed one (after removing the other one) this time. It's quite easy to 'feel' when the bolt it tight when a crush washer is installed. I use a torque wrench when I put the lid back on the pickle jar for Cripe's sake but never bother when it comes to drain bolts or spark plugs - too afraid the proper specs will result in a broken plug or stripped thread and instead always go by feel. I reefed on this SOB and cannot believe it turned itself out!

RossKean said:

bucky said:

If not real busy roads, take a slow ride retracing your steps. You may find the bolt as they are pretty big and then you would know how far you went with little lube. Would save you the cost of a new drain plug assuming it is not damaged by tires hitting it.

Click to expand...

Or just follow the oil slick back to it's beginning!

Click to expand...

Tried that but came up with nothing.

Thanks everyone for the advice. I did retrace my steps, more for the peace of mind that I hadn't driven very far more than to save a buck by finding the old bolt. Turn out I drove minimum 80 kms with the bolt gone including a 2 hour stop. Could have a lot more than 80 kms, who knows.

I promptly ordered a new bolt but alas, it wouldn't be in until Monday. Damn! What's a guy to do? Decided I had no choice but to take the new boat out and wait the 5 days since I was miles away from home. :beach:

Comox->Powell River-> Secret Cove -> Vancouver->Nanaimo->Comox.

Turns out the boat and motorcycle have the EXACT same range on a tank of gas, however the bike costs $24 to fill, the boat - $420 :shok:

I'm a robot...and know it...changing the oil...in the middle, the phone rang

I know now to ignore it till job finished...bolt was hand tight in the pan and stayed that way till a gas stop then waited for my riding buddy to show up, I sat on the curb and glanced at the bike. Saw a drop of oil fall to the concrete...reached over and only 1/4 of the threads holding the oil drain bolt in...yikes...my handy cruz tools crescent wrench saved the day

btw, my anal self carrys 2 quarts of oil, an oil filter, a funnel, and a spare oil drain bolt

(fits both rear drive and crankcase)

Change the oil ride for about two tanks and rechange oil again .They are are really tough rear drives do not worry too much.

If tou are waiting to get the bolt and and can't ride in the interim, you can always go to a discount auto parts place and pick up a generic oil drain bolt for cheap. Not sure of the thread size and pitch but it isn't anything strange. As someone mentioned, its the same thread for the rear gear oil as for the crankcase. Should get you on the road sooner. Note: the only difference is that the rear drive bolt has a magnet.

Ross

Edit: Think its M14 X 1.5 X 16

gixxerjasen said:

And make sure your back tire is clean!

Click to expand...

MajBach said:

Twas good advice! Left side was an accident waiting to happen. :good:

Click to expand...

Whew! I've read too many stories about guys losing the oil drain plug and oil going right down into the path of the tire and then coating the tire and down they go. That drain plug, while not in line with the tire, sure is too close to ignore a careful inspection.

Sure would suck to worry about trashing the final drive from no oil only to trash the entire bike on your first left hand turn!

And heck, while we are at it, gotta love how an FJR can run just fine with no oil in the final drive but a BMW will spontaneously combust even if recently serviced. FJR's RULE!!! :yahoo: