Question about farkle wiring

Have a couple of questions about wiring my new Zumo to my '09.

I have a powerlet on my left panel, that is fused, but unswitched, wired directly to the battery both + and - , I use it to power my tankbag, and anything in it. I also use it to charge my battery in during extended down times.

I also have the OEM switched socket in the glove box. I use this typically for my phone, or one of my sena's while traveling.

I want to add a small fusebox under the seat, and send power the Zumo from there. I was going to us a relay, or a waterproof rocker switch (lighted, to remind me to cut it when I stop for extended periods)

My questions is this : do I worry about charging in the future? Since both the powerlet and this new fusebox will be direct to battery, is this a problem? I figured the rocker switch would put an interruptor in the circuit so that I wouldn't actually have to worry about charging as long as I kill the switch before plugging in the charger.

My other question is : Am i overthinking this?

I don't plan to add too many other farkles. The only thing I can think of is heated garments someday.

My other idea is to skip the fuse box for now, put the zumo direct to battery, with a switch so that I can leave it on if I stop for short breaks but still want to use it.

Take it easy on me, I am an electrical novice...

The Zumo 550 draws VERY LITTLE power. You have to leave it on a LONG time before it'd come close to draining the battery. Just wire it direct to the battery.

I ran to an always-on power block for the rear Powerlet set. This lets me pull into the garage and plug in the Battery Tender; hanging on the peg board to the left of the parked bike.

I ran to a switched power block for the front single Powelet that power my tank bag and other things to.

I ran the hard-wired GPS power to the always-on block because I want an accurate overall average speed, etc. I remove the GPS when not actively riding the bike (either at the end of each day or the end of a rally). That avoids the additional power draw on the bike when parked.

power: https://www.fjr-tips.org/mods/pdb/pdb.html

Originally under the seat (easy to do) but moved to a cleaner location.

Your on the right track.

I have a BlueSeal fuse box under seat fed from a fused supply with a weather proof switch and relay.

That way I can leave the Zumo on while I fill up etc, it also supplies the Autocom and CB radio.

Also have a separate fused pig tail wired direct to the battery that I can plug in either the battery charger or the Slime pump.

The FZ1 Fuzeblock has 6 circuits with a relay. You choose whether the circuit is always hot or off when the bike is off by placement of the fuse. I use a circuit thats always live for general use and the Battery Tender, a switched circuit for the Mondo Motos. It's a handy, compact device.

I have been looking at all of these fuse blocks, but I guess my question really is :

Do I need to worry about plugging a charger into my bike while these electronics are also connected?

On my 09 FJR, I have a switched Centech fuse panel under the rear seat that all the electrical goodies plug into. I also have a weatherproof marine 12v socket on the right dash that's directly connected to the battery under the panel below. I mostly use this connection for charging my Sena and iPhone when camping, but my primary motivation for installing it was for trickle charging and emergency boosting.

Since most fuse boxes are usually switched, a dead battery isn't going to pull the relay to open the circuit for the panel to the battery. Maybe the external boosting battery will pull the relay open, but ... I want to make sure the charging is actually charging.

So for charging - emergency boosting or trickle charging - I'd far rather have that connection go directly to the battery with nothing in the way and nothing to get shocked, shorted, fried or cooked.

It could be argued that this is just my opinion, but it's worked so far for me.

Ian

HelzBelz said:

I have been looking at all of these fuse blocks, but I guess my question really is :
Do I need to worry about plugging a charger into my bike while these electronics are also connected?

Click to expand...

If I read your question correctly it is a very smart question. As long as the electronics are turned off when you connect the trickle charger all should be OK.

Older car chargers are hard on modern AGM batteries like the one in the FJR and would be hard on any electronics that are turned on too. Many modern trickle chargers have an automatic desulfation mode which puts out short, high current pulses and I would recommend that the electronics not be turned on in this mode. If you can switch the desulfation mode off you should be able to have the electronics on while on a trickle charger.

Not sure why you would want anything on while the bike is off. I have a Fuseblock and select switched power for everything, including my Zumo 665. The GPS gives me 15 secs to decide if I want to keep it on when I turn the ignition off. I selected it to stay on on my recent SS1K whenever I stopped for the same reason Bounce mentioned and achieved the same result.

Both of you hit the nail on the head. My zumo 665 cradle will be hard wired and permanently connected to something. Since I like to charge my bike through my un switched powerlet, my concern was whether I could damage things with a trickle charger. I was thinking that instead of a relay I install a switch, that will effectively remove my fusebox from the electrical system when charging, and allow me to keep stuff on for short stops (or kill my battery when I forget.. )

I am an intuitively logical guy. Sometimes I sense logic problems but I can put my finger on why. Kind of like Spock with Alzheimer's.

I have the Eastern Beaver PC-8 fuse block which has six switched circuits and two un-switched circuits. I have the Zumo wired to one of the un-switched circuits and a Powerlet connector to the other un-switched circuit. I keep the Zumo un-switched because I don't always remember to keep the Zumo powered on when turning off the ignition key while traveling. The un-switched Powerlet socket is used to power my tank bag or for charging the bike's battery.

Never an issue on my 03 and have been running it that way since year 1. (fused direct to rear set that the Battery Tender uses and fused/relayed for the switched block used for other accessories). The reason to run a GPS as always on is so that your overall averages and such don't get screwed up when getting gas.

Bounce said:

... The reason to run a GPS as always on is so that your overall averages and such don't get screwed up when getting gas.

Click to expand...

Tomtom doesn't turn off, runs happily on its internal battery when you turn off the ignition. However, I usually take it off the bike to prevent it "walking" when I'm paying for fuel/having a cup of tea/taking a leak, then I turn it off to put it in my pocket. Can be useful if I want to do some re-planning away from the bike. Putting it back onto its cradle and turning on the ignition turns it on again.

Tom Tom is still on version two here in the states. I think your guys are up to version six out across the pond.

(sometimes, i put the gal with the British accent on, and pretend I am listening to a TomTom.)

HelzBelz said:

Tom Tom is still on version two here in the states. I think your guys are up to version six out across the pond.(sometimes, i put the gal with the British accent on, and pretend I am listening to a TomTom.)

Click to expand...

Tomtom Riders have always had an internal battery

Deleted. Not the best place to ask the question

Intech said:

Not sure why you would want anything on while the bike is off. I have a Fuseblock and select switched power for everything, including my Zumo 665. The GPS gives me 15 secs to decide if I want to keep it on when I turn the ignition off. I selected it to stay on on my recent SS1K whenever I stopped for the same reason Bounce mentioned and achieved the same result.

Click to expand...

I can see why he would want some things to remain ON, with the engine off.

In my case I want the GPS units to remain on until I decide to turn them off manually, so I have them "Always On" at the Fuzeblock. The Garmin 2720 has a hard power switch but the Nuvi 765T doesn't. This can be a problem if left on inadvertently for a long time because even when it is "off" it draws 1/2 Amp. This is okay for a lunch break, but not overnight as the bike battery is only 12 AmpHour to begin with. I have to remove that item from the rack for long stops.

Is there a resource one could point the novice to that is considering installing a fuse box...like the one for the FZ-1 that apparently has the ability to be switched or not switched? I'm very limited in knowledge on all thing electrical. I need something step by step. The question comes up with the hard-wiring of my Zumo 550. Between a fuse box and attaching it directly to the battery like my battery tender, not sure the best way to go. With a direct hook up to the battery, I assume there will be a draw constantly coming off the battery. Not sure to what extent or if an issue in the first place.

Is there not an unoccupied spot or two on the Gen III fuse box to hook a powered accessory into like a Zumo 550? If not, is there a recommended switched and not switched set of wires (depending on the route one wants to go) that can also handle the draw of Zumo 550 if "tapped" into?

Sorry for the several questions.

Don't apologize.

The best way to add circuits to any vehicle is through an accessory fuse panel. The FZ-1 is one of the better ones. It will carry a total load of 30 Amps and allow you to select "switched" or "Un-switched" power for each of six separate circuits, each of which can be fused to 10 Amps.

Doing it this way allows you to add all your electrical extras with minimal disturbance to the bike's original wiring, and is a neat and flexible solution. You are, btw, not limited to one such panel, but one is usually enough.

You select a location for the panel, run a positive and ground from the battery and protect the circuit to the panel with a 30 Amp fuse as close to the battery as possible. For the switched power you need a trigger that comes on with the ignition, and a lighting circuit cover that. Then you simply wire your accessories to the panel, fitting a fuse in the correct location for switched or non-s.

Be sure to use a decent gauge of wire to the panel from the battery and cover it well.

This is a simple job that most owners can undertake with care.