I want/need a local tech session near Philadephia - who wants to join me?

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blassoff

Its just the dog in me, baby
FJR Supporter
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Location
Villanova PA
15 miles west of Philadelphia PA. I have a 2005 FJR with 45,000 miles, and I've yet to have a valve check done. I'm starting to get nervous and suspect it's time. Problem is I'm too lazy to trailer the bike to a shop. The only shop I really trust is an hour away and I can't ride there (of course I can ride there but the engine is supported to be stone cold before you do the valve check). So either I ride over at 3 am, sleep in the parking lot and wait for them to open, or do the work myself. I've done all the other maintenance on the bike myself (including tire changes), but I'm nervous as hell popping the valve cover.

So what I'm proposing is a tech session. Anybody need to change tires, come on by, I have a changer and balancer. Hell, I have the tools for the valve check, I just want someone more knowledgable then me to walk through the process. Also, anybody who wants to watch and ask questions is invited. I can supply the garage space, multiple lift options, and lighting. You'll need to bring your own tools, fluids, and parts. You can even have parts shipped here, they'll be waiting for you.

Anybody interested, let's talk! I'm thinking one Saturday or Sunday in April.

Baz

 
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Why so nervous? Have you read up on the "how to's" provided on this forum? It's time consuming sure, but can it really be that hard? I was nervous about doing my front forks, but thanks to the forum and a zillion guys that helped me out, I took them off, made the necessary special tools without much trouble, and completely rebuilt them. Now I could do it in my sleep: been there done that. Seems to me that most jobs we fear aren't really as formidable as they seem. I'll bet you could handle this easier than you think/fear. Good luck with your proposed tech day.

Gary

darksider #44

 
I agree with Gary. This ain't rocket science. You need a basic set of tools and a general mechanical understanding of things. Just to put this in perspective - I'd say if you are capable of changing brake pads and changing spark plugs, you clearly have enough aptitude to do the valve check. Seriously, taking the plastics off the bike is harder than doing the valve check, IMO.

There's enough help and interest on this forum to get you through.

Few basic suggestions:

1. Consider buying a set of shims. You are very likely not going to need any of them, and if so, you can return the shim set if you don't use any. But on the off-chance that you need a shim, you will have it and won't be delayed days (or weeks) to finish the job.

2. Also buy your t/s o-rings, proper coolant, and other soft parts you know you will need now. You could buy a cam cover gskt but it's really made to be re-used, so I wouldn't.

3. If you don't have a torque wrench, buy one.

4. Buy a set of spark plugs - you are 99% there, might as well put a new set in now.

5. You'll need a metric feeler gage. There is an art to "feeling" a feeler gage (PIPE it, you potty mouths!!!!). When you are checking the gap, if you "feel" metal on both side of the gage, but you don't have to force the gage to slide it back and forth, that is your measurement.

6. Keep in mind that as the valves wear, they will likely fall farther into their seats, meaning the valve lash measurement will get tighter (less gap). The valve lash is measured cold because that is why you have the lash in the first place. As the engine warms up, the metals expand and everything will naturally tighten up. If things get too tight, they bend and break. I'm not explaining this to scare you. I'm trying to explain that "loose-ish is better", "tight-ish is worse". This is more critical on the exhaust valves (that area is hotter than the intake area). It took me a while to get my arms around that.

7. So, if the measurement is on the "tight" end - meaning you are at the lowest limit of range, and the feeler gage feels tigher, consider moving to the thinner shim.

8. Get organized before you loosen the first bolt. Clear a nice spot next to your bike. As you take the parts off, place them in order in an organized fashion. Any fasteners removed should be "feaux" installed on the removed part so there can be no dispute with yourself as to "which bolt goes where". This concept is especially helpful if you have a particular part that has bolts with multiple lenghts on it. (don't think that applies for this job, though).

9. Get more organzied before you start. Print the valve check spreadsheet and the "how to" illustrated thread on the FJRinfo forum. The pictures and description on that thread beat the crap out of anything I've ever seen. Have your camera handy. If you are worried about how something should be re-installed, before you disassemble it, take a bunch of pictures. Use a pencil or similar to "point" out anything in your pictures you deem critical to yourself (Ex: "point to the wiring connector to show that it goes on 'this' side of the coolant pipe" - this example may or may not be factual).

Anyhoo - enough blab from me. You'll feel better if you do this yourself, trust me.

 
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I grew up northwest of Philly. I'm also interested in watching a valve check. I've done all the work on my steed, so far, but I've never done or seen a valve check.

 
Checking the valves is no big deal and not hard to do once you get the cover off, especially if you have all the pair plumbing out of the way.

Adjusting the valves is another story. IMHO, if you don't feel comfortable doing this by yourself, you shouldn't. I know this is contrary to the advice most will give on here, but if you end up being off more than a tooth on the chain, you will do major damage and I've seen plenty of GOOD mechanics on this forum get one tooth off. Even being careful and even using the tie wrap method.

You're doing the right thing, get a tech day going with someone experienced to help. If that doesn't happen, take it to a dealer and be without it for a couple days. At least if they screw it up, they'll have to pay for it.

 
I agree with Gary. This ain't rocket science. You need a basic set of tools and a general mechanical understanding of things. Just to put this in perspective - I'd say if you are capable of changing brake pads and changing spark plugs, you clearly have enough aptitude to do the valve check. Seriously, taking the plastics off the bike is harder than doing the valve check, IMO...
However, if you put the plastic on backwards, the bike is just ugly. The valve stuff on the other hand?? First time though is intimidating, but after I watched griff do it for me, I appreciated HIM walking it through with me. I would have missed something...cuz that's me. It does seem doable by myself if I have to.

All he is asking is to watch someone walk it through first, before he does it on his own. Reasonable. He probably appreciates the vote of confidence...but he is volunteering his place, etc.

That's how these Tech Days get started usually anyways. Good time to meet fellow riders, and mechanical helpers.

 
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...if you don't feel comfortable doing this by yourself, you shouldn't...if you end up being off more than a tooth on the chain, you will do major damage...
One tooth on the crank sprocket is serious and two teeth off on the crank sprocket can be wicked expensive. One tooth off on a cam sprocket will make your FJR will run like shit but it will still run, you may even be able to get away with two teeth off. In any case, one tooth off anywhere is going to make a lot extra work.

A new hire electronic test technician was sitting in front of a smoking, stinking piece of smoldering carbon that used to be a circuit board a few seconds ago is asked, "Why on earth would you have connected those two points together?" The answer, "Because it looked right to me." Which is why it is always good to have help or have seen a complex task performed before you do it for the first time by yourself.

 
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While I can't help with anything mechanical, I'm very interested in attending. I need some help with the way my GPS wiring is routed. Anything I can learn about this bike is a good thing.

But I've got plans the last weekend of April - taking my son to WV... any other weekend in April is good.

 
Phil, Wheaton, and Ion all make good counterpoints. If the help is available, why not use it? Now that I think about it, I didn't use it - but on my first valve check, I had good help readily available. That in itself was a confidence booster.

 
Just finished my first valve check and adjust a few weeks ago. I see you have a Gen1. If you haven't changed the CCT, now's a good time. Get a timing chain cover gasket just in case you need it. I found the most difficult part of the job to be getting to and the actual removal of the cam cover. Disconnecting throttle cables from the bar will help here. If you don't change CCT and don't need to adjust, the checking is easy.

Tips for CCT replacement and cam removal if needed.

Remove timing chain cover slowly and try to keep the pin on left side that locates cct in the case.

When cover is off, do the tyrap thing. I also tyrap the cam gears to the timing chain.

I removed the timing rotor from the end of the crank, exposing fully the crank gear/ timing chain. I cut a piece of closed cell foam, often used in packaging, and wedged it under the crank gear. This applies pressure to the timing chain 180* around the gear. It's not going anywhere. Also marked tooth and chain.

I cleaned the cam gears and chain and marked the gear and chain with a sharpie to align tooth to link.

Had to adjust my intakes requiring cam removal. Service manual has you take the cam out, but with CCT removed there is enough slack in the chain to roll the cam out of the way maintaining mesh with chain. Great tip I got here.

I used a micrometer and sanded the intake shims on glass to bring clearances from low spec to mid spec.

Take your time, be methodical. If your AIS is still in place, now's a great time for some WynnPro plates!

I searched the heck out of this site before doing this. Way better info here than the FSM. This place rocks
punk.gif


Have fun with your tech session. You can do it!

 
I just performed the first valve check on my '11. I was a bit nervous at first, but it turned out to be reasonably straightforward.

I pretty much followed this excellent how-to

There were a couple of minor differences, b/c mine is a Gen II, and I had to use a dab or two of gasket sealer to hold the valve cover gasket in place during re-assembly.

I also removed the gas tank, to allow easier access when torquing the valve cover bolts. Speaking of which, you'll want to take note of all the required torque values. They're in the FSM, but I found it easier to just copy the needed ones onto a sheet of paper.

Take your time, (I did mine over a few days, as I had other non-bike stuff to do).

You may wish to take photos showing the positions of various items, such as the layout of the throttle cables, plug wires etc.

Have fun!

 
While I can't help with anything mechanical, I'm very interested in attending. I need some help with the way my GPS wiring is routed. Anything I can learn about this bike is a good thing.
But I've got plans the last weekend of April - taking my son to WV... any other weekend in April is good.
I can help with the electricals, that's easy. Tires, brakes, fork oil and springs, changing the rear shock, and almost anything electrical I can handle. If I do wind up doing the valve check my self, I'll invite you to attend (and I'll be happy to walk through the electrical stuff with you). B

 
Having been honored to meet Dolly da Sheep in person let me press the EZ Button:

BustMeampDolly_zpsbe425253.jpg


Where b Dolly these daze?

 
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I'm about 2 hours west of you but would be interested in coming out to help/observe. Post up date once it's determined and I'll see if it works for me. I have vaccuum gauges I can bring if you want to do TBS.

 
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