Thinking about a Montana Trip

I know I just need to make up my mind, but I've always got great advice on the forum for our trips, so I'm throwing out my situation and we'll see...

We have been touring for about 7 years now, upgrading from a cruiser to the FJR in 2012. Our trips went from about 800 miles during a week of sightseeing, up to 2000 miles mostly riding great roads and a little sightseeing once we got the FJR. We typically get in two to three good trips a year, two of which are about a week long. I just traded the cruiser for a Goldwing a couple months ago and the Wing has become the current long-distance 2-up bike. Don't worry, I'll still put more miles on the FJR than the Wing even with the trips since I ride it almost every day.

We always find great places to go, but we always say, "maybe we should go to Montana this year." My mother-in-law's side of the family is all from far western Montana (Philipsburg, between Butte and Missoula) and my wife spent a few summers there. Her uncle still helps out in the candy store and she's got an aunt nearby and some cousins. The only time I've been there was in 2000 when the family got together out there. We flew to Spokane to see a cousin and then drove across in a car. Great family trip. Big sky country is the perfect name.

I don't know how fun or how interesting the drive itself will be when most of the 1800 miles from Western Kentucky to Western Montana will be Interstate (I think). We would have to squeeze it in under 2 weeks vacation so we'd probably have to do over Labor Day and try to do 4-5 days out, stay there 3 days and 4-5 days back, with maybe another day sightseeing somewhere along the way.

I really am thankful to admit I haven't done a lot slab riding. When I do, I find myself getting tired and there are always great side roads in the states I get to ride in. But I know I can't make it that far in the time allotted without sticking mostly to the Interstates. I wonder how we'll do on that. My max on the FJR has been about 350 miles, but again, that was on side roads, and always with some intense twisties in there somewhere. We did 250 Interstate miles on the Wing on our initial trip on the first evening and that was like gravy even though we started out with temps in the low 40's and got to the upper 30s by the time we stopped. But then we didn't ride interstate any more and did twisties and side roads the rest of the 1300 mile trip except for the last 80 miles from Franklin, TN. We rode the dragon down to 28 and then all the way down through Highlands, NC and back across N Georgia, staying at the Copperhead Lodge and then over to Mentone, AL to ride the Little River Canyon area a couple days before riding across Southern Tennessee on some great sweepers on Easter. Off topic, but that is our typical type of trip.

So I'm no iron butt rider by any means, and my wife's leg gets to hurting even when she's on her pillion couch. But I'm trying to see if this is the trip we "need" to do. I don't like just talking about things and I'd rather have a little regret from doing something a little stupid than just be comfortable while getting older. I'm turning 50 in two weeks, so this has got to be one of the more positive mid-life crisis options to be considering.

Anybody got any similar experiences? How bout experience with the roads between W KY and W MT? The route the wife's family always took goes through St Louis, Kansas City, Sioux Falls and Rapid City before driving all the way across Montana on 212 and then I-90. Having never done that I don't know if it's going to be like Kansas Interstate or if it is interesting. Also, I could go through Des Moines and see my niece one night.

So if you have opinions on whether to head off for the wild blue yonder, ideas on the route, or just want to call me a wimp for not doing the trip on the FJR like the real men of the forum, all thoughts welcome.

Paul

Paul,

From "Hop Town" I see. (I was stationed at Ft. Campbell) You have a beautiful ride on the tip of your thinking. There are so many great backroads to take and so much

to see on the route from Kentucky to Montana. Wow!

To tell you the truth though, I would go a much different route than the one you mentioned. Give me a few days on it and I will get back with you.

… Mississippi River road, Black Hills, Badlands, Mt. Rushmore …. Just a few places. I would be tempted to take a southern route one way and a northern route the other way.

Give me some time on this one!

Once you get to Montana though (or as you get close) . . . Chief Joseph, Bear Tooth, Yellowstone, and mmmm, even Glacier NP. Some gooood stuff to see and ride. I think it's worth some pushing on the way and the way back just to see it. Hope you get to do it.

(And 50's just freaking young.)

I plan to take a trip from Wisconsin out to Bozeman and back in late August/early Sept. You should definitely plan to visit the mountain area of Western Montana!

Enter the region via the Black Hills, SD; then into the Bighorn National Forest / mountains of WY; then to Cody, north out of Cody to the Chief Joseph Byway; over the Beartooth Pass to Red Lodge, Hwy 78 thru Absarokee to Columbus (alternatively enter Yellowstone Park from Cody then ride the Gallatin Valley, Hwy 191 up to 4 Corners). Either way use I90 long enough to get to a road headed north to Hwy 12 (191 out of Big Timber or 86 to 89 out of Bozeman). Hwy 12 west; good coffee shop in Harlowton and/or the Crazy Mountain Inn in Martinsdale on Hwy 294 which cuts the cornor and bypasses White Sulphur Springs. Hwy 12 to Helena to I15. North to exit 200 (7 miles) and west on Hwy 279 past my outpost over Flesher Pass (Continental Divide) to Hwy 200. West though Lincoln to Hwy 83 thru Seeley Lake to Columbia Falls and the west side of Glacier NP (may want to make a side trip to Kalispell and/or Whitefish). Do the park and the Going to the Sun Road (may not be open until late June or early July). That's one idea. If you have time head into Canada and ride the Balfour, Nakusp and Revelstoke area. You may defect to Canada and never come home.... until it snows.

Get this book: "Motorcycling Montana" which you can find by using this link https://motorcyclingmontana.com . The author is a forum member i.e. Big Sky.

Excellent information for planning the Montana portion of your ride. Western Montana and adjoining Idaho have many miles of incredible motorcycle roads! You will have way too much fun.

Sorry, but I can't help at all with your questions about the route from Kentucky to Montana.

BTW, we've experienced above normal snow fall this past winter, so rivers will be full, mountains will have plenty of lingering snow, and hopefully the wild fires will be suppressed!

Bob P.

Ok, I've been through Montana many times. Here are my thoughts:

1. See if you can't find an additonal week to tack onto the trip. Once you have put the effort into crossing the plains, that extra week would be spent enjoying the mountains, and see if you can go in July/August instead (rain is better than snow). You'll also get longer days and warmers temps, both of which are result in more enjoyable riding days in the mountains.
2. Slab it to Cody, WY. There are some good roads north in the black hills and the bighorns, but they are a little out of your way. Don't spend your precious time doodling around close to home (missippi river etc) when you ought to conserve that time for Montana. So slab it Cody (don't worry, you'll enjoy lots of good scenery anywhere in Wyoming).
3. Ignore Yellowstone NP. Traffic will be heavy prior to and over labor day weekend, and that time of year it will be cold and probably snowy at the higher elevations (we were stranded in the campgrounds for two days end of June in 2005 due to several inches of snow). Yellowstone is better in a car and camper, IMHO.
4. From Cody, take Chief Joseph Highway to the Beartooth pass to Red Lodge, from there up to I-90 to Bozeman. Note that US 212 summits around 11,000 feet and labor day is late in the season. Watch the weather and be prepared to go around as there might be ice / snow / hail / storms. 2/3 of my trips over Beartooth had solid precip (hail in July, snow in August). Just check the weather before leaving Cody. Chief Joseph + Beartooth are probably the most scenic US roads I have ever been on, and I've been almost everywhere.
5. Once you're in Philipsburg, consider day or overnight trips through Glacier (if it the roads aren't frozen over yet), or a trip down US 12 (Lolo pass) and back.
6. What I have found with Montana is that they don't have as extensive of a road network as KY, and fewer of the roads are paved. In other words you won't find a million little paved curvy roads reaching into the nooks and crannies. Many twisty roads are dead-end access roads for fly fishing, or ranches, or river access, etc. But what you will find is great scenery, little traffic and friendly people.

Not sure if this is much help to you, especially riding two up but - even though you mentioned not being the type has it ever crossed your mind to try an Iron Butt type of ride? Why I ask is because you mention taking four or five days each out and back. Something I didn't anticipate about doing an IBA ride, and I've seen others mention this in their comments as well, is that once you complete something like that the country seems to get just a little bit smaller. For instance if I had to, I know now that I could reasonably make it from home to say St. Louis in one day if I was looking to make time, something that I might not have considered prior. Yeah, all slab but it serves a purpose. And if you've done 350 mile days with the FJR on side roads and twisties, I wonder what that time and endurance would translate to in highway mileage. A sort of LD "test run" before this trip comes around might allow you to shave a day or two off your travel time and give you more time to explore your destination.

Whatever you decide, I am envious. Spent a summer out there as a kid and have really great memories of it all. Maybe somehow, some day . . .

Pterodactyl said:

Enter the region via the Black Hills, SD; then into the Bighorn National Forest / mountains of WY; then to Cody, north out of Cody to the Chief Joseph Byway; over the Beartooth Pass to Red Lodge, Hwy 78 thru Absarokee to Columbus (alternatively enter Yellowstone Park from Cody then ride the Gallatin Valley, Hwy 191 up to 4 Corners). Either way use I90 long enough to get to a road headed north to Hwy 12 (191 out of Big Timber or 86 to 89 out of Bozeman). Hwy 12 west; good coffee shop in Harlowton and/or the Crazy Mountain Inn in Martinsdale on Hwy 294 which cuts the cornor and bypasses White Sulphur Springs. Hwy 12 to Helena to I15. North to exit 200 (7 miles) and west on Hwy 279 past my outpost over Flesher Pass (Continental Divide) to Hwy 200. West though Lincoln to Hwy 83 thru Seeley Lake to Columbia Falls and the west side of Glacier NP (may want to make a side trip to Kalispell and/or Whitefish). Do the park and the Going to the Sun Road (may not be open until late June or early July). That's one idea. If you have time head into Canada and ride the Balfour, Nakusp and Revelstoke area. You may defect to Canada and never come home.... until it snows.

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Spot on advice. Plus if you will PM me I might be able to put you up when you come through the Black Hills either going or coming.

There's lots of outstanding advice in this thread, at least for the parts of your ride I know something about. In other words, I've got pretty much no idea what it's like between KY and MT. But the point of this ride is to get to MT, right? So I like the idea of maximizing your time there and thereabouts.

And if you do pass through Bozeman, make a point of finding the Pickle Barrel near the MT State U campus. Best funky little sandwich shop anywhere. If it's not lunchtime, get one to go.

SacramentoMike said:

And if you do pass through Bozeman, make a point of finding the Pickle Barrel near the MT State U campus. Best funky little sandwich shop anywhere. If it's not lunchtime, get one to go.

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Oh hell yes! "one" sandwich will feed you four times. Well, maybe two, knowing what the folks on this forum look like. A half sammich will NOT leave you hungry.

And right next door is a wonderful little ice cream shop with homemade waffle cones, serving Wilcoxson's ice cream. Warning: the scoops are HUGE!

You really should think of the Montana region as a riding paradise: South Dakota, Wyoming, Idaho, Southwest Alberta (Jasper NP), Southeast British Columbia (Lake District) and of course little ole Montana.

By the way give Northeast Montana and Northwest North Dakota a wide berth. That is where the new oil production is in full swing. Very heavy truck traffic, no place to stay (even camp grounds are stretched) and, unhappily, much more crime. But the money is rolling in.

Goodman4 said:

The route the wife's family always took goes through St Louis, Kansas City, Sioux Falls and Rapid City before driving all the way across Montana on 212 and then I-90. Having never done that I don't know if it's going to be like Kansas Interstate or if it is interesting. Also, I could go through Des Moines and see my niece one night.

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I-70 to I-29 to I-90 is the route which you speak. If a stop in Des Moines is desired may I suggest Your deviation be to turn north after St. Louis onto 61N (Ave. of the Saints), this connects St. Louis to St. Paul.

I took that route a few weeks back. Then take US 34W / 63 / 163 to Des Moines. It will add only 20 miles or so to your ride. Leaving Des Moines, the options are I-35 N (To #20 or I-90) / I-80 W to I-29.

The stretch of I-29 running up to I-90 is loaded with deer, and in September … careful riding is advised even in the daytime. I-90 across Dakota will usually mean strong winds.

I had a much more scenic route in mind but then realized getting there (Montana) was the goal with fewer miles ridden.

I-15 in Montana has some nice sweepers in stretches and around most of them is a view worthy of a jigsaw puzzle… Love Montana!

Have a great ride, and if you go through Ottumwa, IA :

A Nice Day In Iowa - Ride Reports - FJRForum

The Canteen is a treat. Make sure you have a Breaded Tenderloin in the Des Moines area too!

And for the wife's knees,"Aleve" some pain.

Pterodactyl said:

You really should think of the Montana region as a riding paradise: South Dakota, Wyoming, Idaho, Southwest Alberta (Jasper NP), Southeast British Columbia (Lake District) and of course little ole Montana.
By the way give Northeast Montana and Northwest North Dakota a wide berth. That is where the new oil production is in full swing. Very heavy truck traffic, no place to stay (even camp grounds are stretched) and, unhappily, much more crime. But the money is rolling in.

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+1 (like I already said) This area is fantastic riding, just get here, and not too early or late!!

Yes, we LOVED Glacier National Park. We were trying to remember what time of year we went in 2000, but I think it was the first week of June. Going to the Sun road had just opened that day, and we had a beautiful drive through. We saw on the news that evening there was a snow cave in on the road and they had to close it apparently right after we were done. We were in a rental car and as we were crossing the great divide somewhere on the way back down to Philipsburg it had started icing and the trees down below were all glistening. I pulled off to get a picture and the side of the road was solid ice. I was going very slow, but the car just kept sliding and hit the guardrail. Glad the guardrail was there. But we got that $1500 picture that I've got somewhere in an album.

We're thinking more seriously about the trip especially after these good reports. I'm estimating how many miles we should aim for per day. I think for us, 400 should be low end and 600 high end for the main stretch to Cody. Thanks for the advice. And I just ordered the recommended book.

101stpathfinder said:

From "Hop Town" I see. (I was stationed at Ft. Campbell) You have a beautiful ride on the tip of your thinking. There are so many great backroads to take and so muchto see on the route from Kentucky to Montana. Wow!

I would be tempted to take a southern route one way and a northern route the other way.

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101st, I've been here on the north edge of Ft. Campbell for almost 20 years now and call it home. Many of my friends are either stationed on base or have retired from there.

I am more likely to try to take the shorter route to maximize visit and ride time while there, but if you have suggestions for alternate routes that don't add over a day or two, I'd like to contemplate them. I like options and seldom end up with the same exact trip I start with when I first start planning. I spend a lot more time planning and looking forward to trips than anything else. My wife says I worry about them too much, but I think it's fun.

Goodman4 said:

Yes, we LOVED Glacier National Park. We were trying to remember what time of year we went in 2000, but I think it was the first week of June. Going to the Sun road had just opened that day, and we had a beautiful drive through. We saw on the news that evening there was a snow cave in on the road and they had to close it apparently right after we were done. We were in a rental car and as we were crossing the great divide somewhere on the way back down to Philipsburg it had started icing and the trees down below were all glistening. I pulled off to get a picture and the side of the road was solid ice. I was going very slow, but the car just kept sliding and hit the guardrail. Glad the guardrail was there. But we got that $1500 picture that I've got somewhere in an album.
We're thinking more seriously about the trip especially after these good reports. I'm estimating how many miles we should aim for per day. I think for us, 400 should be low end and 600 high end for the main stretch to Cody. Thanks for the advice. And I just ordered the recommended book.

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We are riding to Philipsburg this Saturday after a two day tech session at our place. Lunch at the Sunshine Station and a visit to the largest candy store west of anyplace.

Pterodactyl said:

We are riding to Philipsburg this Saturday after a two day tech session at our place. Lunch at the Sunshine Station and a visit to the largest candy store west of anyplace.

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You're going to the Sweet Palace! Really cool, but beware, I think they are closed most Saturdays. My wife's uncle, Don Bowen, worked there for 14 years. Before it became the candy store, it was Huffman Grocery store for 100 years. That was my wife's great-grandmother's family store.

Yes closed Saturdays for religious observance. We are actually going on Sunday.