Custom LED Arrangements

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During the buildup of my compact sport touring bike https://www.fototime.com/CF592B8F6C93712/medium800.jpg I wanted to add LED lights to the Givi top case. Admore has a kit for the V46 case but it only utilizes the center red circles for tail/stop and it costs $99. I'd seen where others had done there own thing with LED strips you can buy at auto parts stores or Walmart. These will work but are pretty costly...about $30 for two 6" strips. I was searching Amazon for a better deal on those 6" strips when I came across these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EHHLD8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

How could I go wrong with 16.5 feet of waterproof LEDs? That is 300 12 volt LEDs that only need 1.2 Amps for all 300 for the whooping prices of $8.67. The nice thing here is that you can cut the strips to the size you want as long as you only cut at marked sections of 3 LEDs. I chose the white, but as you can see there are lots of color options.

Here are some 3 LED strips I cut and wired but didn't need for my project.

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Further googling and searching brought me to Custom Dynamic: .https://www.customdynamics.com/

While digging through the site I came across dual converters.

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These tiny devices take your tail light circuit and your brake light circuit, combine them into one lead that now controls both functions. The way it works is to cut the LED output for tail lights and give you full illumination when the brakes are applied all for $4.95. These components are buried down in the website. Search for TruFlex and scroll to the bottom on that section.

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The camera makes the lights appear orange, but the are in reality a bright red when showing through the case's lens.

BTW, I also have the attention-getting flashing brake lights on my bike's main and top case brake lights. That cost me a whole $10, also from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00COGWYTI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have a turn signal function built into my top case. I used two 3" amber strips per side, separate from my tail lights, and they show up as amber through the red lens. If you like to combine turn signals and stop lights on your project, Custom Dynamics has a tiny component that will handle that job. It is considerably more that the dual converter I used but still reasonable at $25 for both right and left.

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While I placed all my lights under the lens you can place these pretty much where ever you have a flat surface adding lots of visibility for way less than most of the devices sold for that purpose.

The other nice thing about these strips is they can be used on a wide variety of applications. The power needed is so low that they can be powered with a $10 plug-in power supply: https://www.amazon.com/Hitlights-110VAC-24-watt-Adapter-Transformer/dp/B007ME2HMQ/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1406137441&sr=8-14&keywords=12+volt+led+power+supply or if no AC power is available you could power them for many hours using a 12 volt sealed battery like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Volt-Alarm-Battery-12v5ah-Hour/dp/B0010Z4MDK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1406137666&sr=8-3&keywords=12+volt+battery

 
How did you arrange the plug so the top box could be removed from the bike? How did you run the wires through the top box?

 
How did you arrange the plug so the top box could be removed from the bike? How did you run the wires through the top box?
Keep in mind that the wire can be very small, 22-26 gauge is fine. I ran a 4 conductor cable through the bottom of the case on the left side. I purchased a computer fan extension cable https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058DN7B8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 because it had a male and female end and could only be connected one way. I attached one end to the bike's wiring and one to the cable from the box. They snap together under the rear seat. The box will be on the bike most of the time so a quicker way to disconnect wasn't required.

I drilled holes under the lens on each side to get the wires inside the box. Again, because the wires are small they can be taped to the inner side of the lid and looped around to the left side where everything is connected to the 4 conductor cable and that cable is taped along the lid to the front (the hinged side) of the case. It then runs down the case and out the bottom. I chose to solder the connections and insulate with shrink tubing.

I'm happy to answer any questions.

 
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