If it's really tight, slow the bike right down until the clutch disengages (see note below), then a bit of throttle to get drive, but keep the clutch slipping. If possible, use the rear brake to steady your speed. You can control the speed with just the throttle if you want to keep your foot hovering over the ground (I often lack the confidence to keep it on the peg), but on the '06 (and '07) it's not easy with the abrupt throttle tube cam.
I think the techniques above are good advise. You need to know the 2006 is not exactly blessed with a finesse throttle. Many owners have changed to a G2 throttle tamer to make the initial roll-on a bit smoother, and also take out the slack in the throttle cables. The original throttle had a tendency to come-on quickly and was difficult to modulate in the lower RPM range. You can decide if it is something you want as you gain more experience with the bike, but be aware that the rear wheel has overpowered some riders.
You are quite right about the falling over bit, particularly on an up-hill hairpin, been there, done that. It's not always practical to keep the speed up enough to prevent the clutch disengaging (3000 in 1st is about 9 mph). That's why I suggested slowing sufficiently to disengage the clutch before the turn.from what I've heard on this site, you drag the rear brake to keep the speed in your turn controllable and the RPMs up high enough that the clutch does not disengage below 1300rpm. If the clutch disengages while in the turn, you may fall over. :no: Me? I'm a clutch guy, always will be.unk:
You still have a clutch it's just controlled by your right hand (RPMs). The trick is in training the right hand, takes a little getting used to. So follow the same proceedure drag the rear brake and modulate using the right hand, after a while it becomes second nature.
Except that if you've stopped in 1st gear, you can't select 2nd. You need to be able to do it in 1st for when there's no option.
Purdie much ^THIS^
I realize that (of course), but there is also a lot of talk about the rear brake, right? Adding to that angle.
At slow speeds, as I understand it...the AE rider keeps his engine speed up, while modulating his forward speed with the rear brake...letting the FJR AE computer modulate the clutch. So at slow u-turns, combined rear brake application and throttle application are required. Unless I have totally misread the AE operations, you must use rear brake for slow speed small radius U-turns.I realize that (of course), but there is also a lot of talk about the rear brake, right? Adding to that angle.
But on second thought, maybe I'll just put a heading for clarification. (You know I'm all about being crystal clear.)
It's not quite that simple. What you are trying to avoid is the situation where you ease the throttle off so much that the clutch disengages altogether. Instant bike-drop. This can happen whether you are using a slipping clutch or a fully engaged clutch, but the latter is more dangerous.
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