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No need to change crush washers (if not damaged), but cheap so if you want to, go ahead. Also, if you do change the crush washer, the more flat side goes toward the rear gear casing (it is machined and will fit flat to crush washer); the bolt is forged (and not as flat) so this is where you want the crush-able side of the washer.

So as not to influence anyone who doesn't read the rest of the thread I'm striking what I posted earlier (still think I'm either right or it doesn't make any difference).

 
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Crush washers are designed by nature to be one time use (and the manual specifically calls for new ones at each change). Will they always leak if you reuse, no of course not. But if you plan on reusing, that's what copper washers are for as I went over. How I demonstrated it is exactly how they go - as they were on the bolts when I removed them. The taller edge goes to the case and gets crushed. If you don't believe it, take one off a new bike and see for yourself or just zoom in to my video
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He starts right off saying that the oil filter used to be hidden behind a panel before 2013, which is wrong.
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Very nice, thanks for taking the time to do the videos. Some may nitpick some points, but the videos are very well done and will be very helpful to owners that haven't done the work before. Good job Bryan.

 
Thanks.

It really is too easy to pay someone else to do. It's one of those "easy successes" to build on for the budding home mechanic.

 
Hey, Kaelaria...

Just watched your Ozello Trail video a few minutes ago. Looks like a great little ride I might take this weekend. Thanks for the vid!

 
And here I thought this process was always self-explanatory!

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Good job

 
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Sorry wrong person (previous edit) - you are right, it was still exposed I was thinking of another bike when I was speaking. None of that has any bearing on the job or topic at hand though.

 
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Thanks guys! Yes, on every how-to post I do, there are always critics and experts...oh well, I don't see any of them ever producing anything
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...there are always critics and experts...oh well, I don't see any of them ever producing anything
Actually, on this Forum that may not always be true. Many, many people have contributed how-to guides for even more complex procedures up to and including engine removal and tear-down for transmission repair, suspension fix/replace/upgrades, Intake and fuel injection how-tos, wire harness upgrades, all manor of electrical work, farkle installs, ignition switch replacement/upgrades/tumbler rekeying, wheels, brakes, drive line fixes as well as basic maintenance. In the Forum index you will also find links to other FJR owner's web sites dedicated to FJR maintenance and upgrades.

I believe you are the first to document basic maintenance on a Gen III.

 
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On his throttle body sync video he mentions that he is adjusting the throttle plate positions. On my Gen ! bike, the normal throttle body sync done at idle you adjust the bleed air screws. Is that Gen 3 different or was he actually adjusting the bleed air screws on each throttle body?

 
Normally the round portion of a sealing washer is for the sealing surface and is the part that compresses. So place that round portion towards the oil pan. Also remember to clean the mating surface BEFORE installing the drain bolt. We need to clean off any dirt or grit that may cause a leak path. Can the crush washers be reused, heck yes, and will not leak 90% of the time, but the washers are cheap, so you decide.

 
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