Waterproof electrical tape?

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xcsp

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I recall reading somewhere on the forum about waterproof electrical tape but was unable to find it by searching, the tape was supposed to be far better than just off-the-shelf electrical tape.

Can anyone help? Have a GPS hardwire kit with a small in-line plastic box that I'd like to make sure is sealed from the elements.

 
Yep, the self-fusing tape. Back in my AF days, we used to call it F-4 tape because that's what they were held together with; kind of like duct tape but better and water proof.

 
The 3M brand designation is 130C. We used to use this as the main wrap for terminations on electric motors in the plants.

If you plan on ever getting back into that little box you will want to first wrap your box with some other tape. The easiest thing to do would be to apply conventional electrical tape backwards (adhesive side out) for a couple wraps. Then, come over with the 130C.

The critical thing is to stretch the tape as you wrap. The stretch is the most important part. Once the component is wrapped to your satisfaction you can go over it with a couple wraps of 33 (conventional electrical tape). That prevents the self-vulcanizing 130C from sticking to everything and makes for a cleaner, more finished look.

 
Good points, 'fish!
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Rockdude, the F4 tape was great with the fabric weave molded in. I use other stuff now because I want to keep my F4 tape for old times sake. I still have it in the metal tin!

 
Rescuetape.com Can find it locally, and has worked for me in different repairs on all sorts of stuff.

 
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Rescuetape.com Can find it locally, and has worked for me in different repairs on all sorts of stuff.
Just be aware that RescueTape is silicone tape, and the 3M referenced is rubber.

They have different properties which may, or may not matter.

 
As a 3M employee I am very fond of this thread. At least all the way until the liquid stuff was referenced. The 130c is used in telecom applications for building sealing collars to keep water from entering sealed closures.

 
As a 3M employee I am very fond of this thread. At least all the way until the liquid stuff was referenced. The 130c is used in telecom applications for building sealing collars to keep water from entering sealed closures.
I originally bought it for sealing connectors on Low Noise Block downconverters in satellite installations.

Never had one leak despite freezing weather and blazing sun.

 
I've owned saltwater boats for 25 years. I can tell everyone that categorically, there is no way to seal electrical connections in that evvironment forever. However, at least for 12V circuits with solderless connections, this stuff comes pretty close:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/16351039?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227009482987&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=42975821912&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=81467944112&veh=sem

To take my best shot, I use a dremel tool to cut off the plastic solderless connection cover. Then only crimp the actual connector tight using the crimping tool the right way (look it up). Then slide shrink wrap over it. Then coat the ends of the connection with liquid electrical tape. Soldering the connection is also effective, but not practical for large wires (say bigger than 12 gage).

It will last about 10 years before the saltwater corrosion gets it.

As a secondary (or tirchiary) barrier, if I have multiple wires I want to protect together, I put them in the accordian loom, and then wrap the loom in the 3M (or similar) tape.

 
The procedure that I outlined in post #5 is the one we use for 480 volt 3 phase motors. I have used this for motors pulling over 300 amps and have never had a failure. The main difference would be that if possible rather than the initial wrap being a "back wrap" of 33, I would use another 3M tape called Varnished Cambric. That would be my initial protection, then the stretched 130C, then a final covering of 33. This will withstand any reasonable operating condition. Temperature, water, vibration, and the inevitable wear caused by rubbing against the metal box are all defeated by this method.

If it can survive the hostile environments in the acid plants, refrigerant plants, vinyl plants, and refineries where I make my wife's money, it will certainly survive anything the FJR can send it.

 
... where I make my wife's money ...
I have this problem as well. But at least mine rarely sometimes buys me nice things.Click on image for larger view



I've used self-amalgamating tape over soldered joints. It works, but I've seen corrosion after 4 years (when I transferred stuff from my '10 to my '14), but it was unbranded tape. While it stuck to itself, it didn't stick well to the wire insulation it was wrapped round. So, get good quality tape.

 
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I also worked on F4's, RF-4C's to be exact. I bought my role of this great tape at the local Home Depot. It is 3M/Scotch Pro Grade 2228 Moisture Sealing Electrical Tape. Doesn't come in the familiar metal can but, oh well.

 
Rescuetape.com Can find it locally, and has worked for me in different repairs on all sorts of stuff.
Just be aware that RescueTape is silicone tape, and the 3M referenced is rubber.

They have different properties which may, or may not matter.
True, but I haven't found anything that leaks through it yet, including a fuel line on a four wheeler, a high pressure brake line on a M923 5-ton, or the power steering pump line on a M923 truck as well. But like anything, I am sure there is something out there that it won't work on.

 
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