Battery question

I'm hoping this is just my battery getting on the weak side, but I thought I'd see what you guys think. If my battery is weak would it start ok, then die? Then after that be slow to turn over?

Specifics - I've had my 07 for over two years putting 20K on it with no real problems. I haven't been on a long trip in a few months on it, but I ride to work almost every day about 10-20 miles each way with the occasional short fun ride. I don't keep it on the battery tender since I stay on it. I realize that might not be long enough for optimal battery charge. I went for a longer ride Saturday and it started fine. I stopped for something after a few miles and it started fine. I stopped for gas a few miles later and it started fine again.

I rode a good hard ride for 40 mintues and stopped to take a picture for the moto-tag thread. I noticed I left the ignition on when I first got off (my excuse is that I was trying to make a quick shot), but that was really only for 10-15 seconds. I turned it off and finished the shot. A minute later I got on it and like the other times, it started right up. I gave it a little gas to take off slow since I was on gravel and it died. Very unusual. I tried to start it again and it didn't want to turn over like the battery was weak. I looked it over and saw that my trip odo had not reset so it didn't go dead like a disconnect or something like that. I tried again and it turned over weakly, but started.

I drove straight home (30 miles), turned it off in the garage and it started twice just fine with no hesitation. I put it on the battery tender for a day and rode it to work today without issue.

I think the battery is 2.5 years old.

I did have a similar issue a year and a half ago when we rode the Blue Ridge Parkway. It only did it once right on one of the overlooks, so I parked on hills for a day just in case I had to push start it. Never happened again so I forgot about it. I think at the time I blamed the key I had switched to for some reason, cause I switched back to my main key and it never happened again. Until this weekend.

I'm thinking the answer is to keep it on the battery tender more with the way I'm currently riding, but replace the battery before any long trip. It's time for a valve check soon so I'll let my Yamaha guy put a new battery in then.

Or does it sound like it could be something else? I'm not wanting to ignore potential warning signs.

Thanks for the advice,

Paul

Doesn't sound like a battery problem to me. If you can make repeated starts then you almost certainly have enough capacity in the battery.

As for the 'stall' on take off, this is not unusual with a warm engine with modern fuelling. These bikes are designed to run very lean when warmed up. This is not a problem when you are moving but can be a problem trying to pull away, particularly if you need a little bit extra, like in gravel.

Leaving the ignition switched on for a few minutes should not be a problem. There will be a current draw initially while the fuel pump pressures up the fuel rail but the pump will cut out after a few seconds and then current draw will be minimal.

Donal said:

...There will be a current draw initially while the fuel pump pressures up the fuel rail but the pump will cut out after a few seconds and then current draw will be minimal.

Click to expand...

You are right that a few minutes shouldn't matter, but there will be significant current draw, particularly if the headlights were left on (as is most likely in this scenario, when the kick-stand lowered would stop the motor but leave the headlights on).

I checked the current on my '14 with just the ignition on, it was about 4 amps after the fuel pump had stopped and with no headlights. I'd expect a Gen II to be similar or even a bit more (its front running/parking lights are tungsten, the Gen III's are LEDs).

Headlights on you're talking nearer 13 amps. Not saying 10-15 seconds would hurt (it wouldn't), but don't want people to think the current is insignificant.

buy a new battery and give the old one to your old lady for her vibrator.

I do not believe it is the battery either, but there is always a chance that it could be. The mcatrophy's thread is IMO excellent. Too many people rely on voltage and don't check current. Do you have a charger pig tail? The FJR battery position makes testing difficult. The pig tail allows you to check the battery voltage key off, key on, kill on/off and running. It can allow you to read it while moving too. Checking the regulator rectifier and alternator is another fun thing to check out. It's all laid out in the service manual and all you need is a multi-meter. Having not done it on an FJR I'm not sure how difficult it will be to get to the test points.

I have never worked on an FJR but know that on some bikes when the voltage drops below approx. 10.5 volts, the ignition won't fire AND/OR the fuel system won't deliver fuel. Just a thought.

Loose battery terminals have been know to cause similar symptoms.

That said, the battery on the FJR is way too small. I measured 3.5 Amp draw on my '05, ignition on, engine off. Add the low beams and that 12 Amp hour battery is not going to hold enough in reserve to start the engine for very long, especially if the battery is getting a bit weak.

Walmart will load test it for you. Charge it, take it in and they will let you know if it can hold the charge. What they can't do is sell you a replacement because their AGM batteries are too wide. The FJR has a special size (of course it does), and you'll get the best deal online.

I bought the Motobatt and have been happy with it.

How many total miles on the bike? I had 73K on my '07, year old battery, starter relay was good, wiring was good. Starter brushes were bad. Had to replace. Now starts like new.

You won't know if your battery is OK until you charge it and have it load tested. I will venture to say your 10-20 mile commutes are not long enough to fully recharge the battery, so I'd put it on the battery tender at least once a week.

RaYzerman19 said:

You won't know if your battery is OK until you charge it and have it load tested. I will venture to say your 10-20 mile commutes are not long enough to fully recharge the battery, so I'd put it on the battery tender at least once a week.

Click to expand...

I don't think 10-20 mile trips should be an issue. Many of my journeys have been 3 miles only, 10 to 15 minutes commuting in city traffic, much at tick-over. Often going for several weeks between longer runs. Never had a battery issue.

In my experience on my Gen II, my voltmeter generally would go down to around 10 volts during cranking, then within a few tens of seconds with the engine running at fast idle, the voltage would rise to around 14. At this voltage, the battery is pretty near fully charged.

Unless you have lots of extra load, or spend most of the time at tick-over, short journeys shouldn't be an issue. And I believe the battery is still being charged a bit at tick-over, the voltage always remained above the fully charged, disconnected, voltage of 12.8 or so.

simple things first...get a new batt. the OEM Yuasa in my '06 croaked in less than 3 years...terminals need to be shiny too...

As a battery ages, its ability to supply a load can decrease rapidly near the end of the battery life. As you found when you briefly left the ignition on with the bike stopped, the battery rapidly loses the ability to restart the bike. Pretty soon you will find just leaving a small load like a GPS can quickly deplete the battery.

I agree you need a new one...me too. I'll probably get a YUASA YT14B-BS which is normally shipped dry. With that type of battery it is important to add the electrolyte and give it time to absorb, then provide up to 12 hours of charging at 1.5 amps, before installing.

Thanks for the advice. I have not had any more trouble, but I went ahead and ordered a Yuasa battery this morning just to be sure when we're out of town and avoid the worry. Also if I have more trouble, that should eliminate the battery as a cause. I do have the charger pigtail and checked the battery with the crappy multimeter I've got. I can't tell exactly but I can tell it's between 12 and 13 where it's supposed to be. Since I'm at 26,400 on the odo, I'll have the battery ready for them to put in when I have the valve clearance checked.

I bought the Yuasa for $92.76 on Amazon, free shipping.

While you're at it, order a yuasa smartshot charger/maintainer for 30 bucks and keep that new battery in top shape.

My 08 is still on it's first battery! I keep it on a tender virtually all the time while at home. It did fail to start the bike once and I took it to my dealer and he did what he called a deep charge and that is all I have ever done! My luck may be running out though? I have 106,390 kms.

jmgrif said:

My 08 is still on it's first battery! I keep it on a tender virtually all the time while at home. It did fail to start the bike once and I took it to my dealer and he did what he called a deep charge and that is all I have ever done! My luck may be running out though? I have 106,390 kms.

Click to expand...

And my '07 is still on the factory battery and it has never once been on a battery tender. Never. IMHO battery tenders are way over rated and useless. BTW- my battery has yet to fail to start the bike.

Now that I've said it I'm sure it'll crap out any day now.

rbentnail said:

jmgrif said:

My 08 is still on it's first battery! I keep it on a tender virtually all the time while at home. It did fail to start the bike once and I took it to my dealer and he did what he called a deep charge and that is all I have ever done! My luck may be running out though? I have 106,390 kms.

Click to expand...

And my '07 is still on the factory battery and it has never once been on a battery tender. Never. IMHO battery tenders are way over rated and useless. BTW- my battery has yet to fail to start the bike.

Now that I've said it I'm sure it'll crap out any day now.

Click to expand...

That may be true in your specific instance ... Do you ride a lot ? Does the bike sit idle for weeks at a time ? Is your bike parked in a climate controlled area ?

I live in Chicago and with the cold, my battery tender is a godsend and honestly a necessity unless I want to replace my battery every few years .. My bike must sit in the cold from December through (about may) each year ... And I don't subscribe to the "start it weekly" thing ..

In any case, your statement about battery tenders being useless is likely correct for your specific circumstances ... For others it is pretty important ..

For the record, I hope to retire to North Carolina where my bike will see daily use and at that time, Ill leave the tender in Chicago and never look back ...

I bought a battery tender when I moved to PA. JSNS

MrZappo said:

That may be true in your specific instance ... Do you ride a lot ? Does the bike sit idle for weeks at a time ? Is your bike parked in a climate controlled area ?
I live in Chicago and with the cold, my battery tender is a godsend and honestly a necessity unless I want to replace my battery every few years .. My bike must sit in the cold from December through (about may) each year ... And I don't subscribe to the "start it weekly" thing ..

In any case, your statement about battery tenders being useless is likely correct for your specific circumstances ... For others it is pretty important ..

For the record, I hope to retire to North Carolina where my bike will see daily use and at that time, Ill leave the tender in Chicago and never look back ...

Click to expand...

Between March and October my bike rarely sits more than 3 days at a time. It's in a carport, sheltered from the elements and sun but exposed to ambient temps. As to 'ride a lot', more than some less than some, typically about 12k miles per yr. My riding tapers off through Oct & Nov, by Thanksgiving the bike is in an unheated shed for the winter. Never 'tendered', never started until all the maintenance I'm going to do is done. At least up 'til now the battery hasn't failed me. I expect it to croak any day now . I have a new Motobatt sitting on the shelf waiting to go in. I thought my OEM was dying a couple yrs back so I bought it. Maybe I should get a battery tender for it, eh?

I've said it before and I'll stick to it: IMHO batteries are such a crapshoot. You pays your money and you takes your chances. Sometimes it's good, sometimes it's great, sometimes you don't get nearly enough for what you paid. The sky is blue- that's just the way it is.