FJR AE Extended Warranty - YES vs Zurich vs Both

I bought my 2009 AE (automatic clutch) with 15K Miles. I bought it from a dealer who is 2000 miles distant. The dealer also sold me a Zurich two-year extended warranty (highest level of coverage) for $600. But the dealer did not tell me that the bike already has a Factory YES warranty that expires about 14 months from today (about six months before the end of the Zurich warranty).

Due to an error in book keeping by the dealer I have an option to cancel the Zurich warranty and get part of my money back (about $450).

My question is whether to keep the Zurich warranty (as dual coverage with the factory warranty) or cancel Zurich and and just rely on the factory warranty. Given to the somewhat extensive mods to my bike, and the problems discussed below, does anybody have any experience with whether the Zurich people would be more likely to approve a repair than Yamaha? I'm thinking engine, transmission, final drive, electrical, etc.

The mods to my bike include a MC Cruise Cruise Control, a Power Commander V and a Muzzy full pipe and muffler. The catalytic converter has been removed. I'm nervous that any engine failure would be disapproved by Yamaha due to the exhaust and PC V mods.

My bike currently has problems. I have installed a 10 ga bypass wire harness between the R/R and the battery which has corrected a one volt drop in the factory harness. The clutch grabs when cold, and there is some slippage when shifting while accelerating hard. I have an additional 0.8 volt drop through the ignition switch (measuring only 13.3 at the positive side of the switched fuses). According to dealer records, my bike has had the ignition switch mod and the spider (ground) sub-harness mod.

A local Yamaha dealer has told me that any aftermarket part will void the Yamaha warranty on any part of the bike that could have been damaged by the modification. As an example, we discussed the voltage drop in the main wiring harness. The dealer said it would cost about $300 to diagnose the problem, and about $1500 total to install a new main sub-harness. Yamaha could pay for all of this after inspection of hte parts. However, if they discover any electrical modifications to the bike, I would be responsible for the total amount of the repair. This means that, at a minimum, I would have to remove the cruise control and my 10 ga bypass before I could take the bike to them for diagnosis, either for the current problem or any possible future problems.

The Zurich customer service rep said that they will void the warranty if a Zurich inspector deems that an aftermarket part has contributed to a component failure. But after a lengthy discussion it seems that Zurich will put more thought into the failure and whether the aftermarket part really contributed to it.

I am capable of working on the bike myself. I have pulled all tupperware except the nose. I have cleaned and greased as many connectors as I could find. I replaced plugs, and I will probably do the 16K suspension lube myself. I am happy with the 10 ga wire mod. I think I need another new ignition switch. Neither warranty will cover the clutch, which may need a soak and/or new plates.

My question in this post is *not* how to solve my current problems, it is whether the Zurich warranty has advantages that may make it worth $450 to keep it.

Also, if I work on the bike myself, will that void either warranty?

Thanks!!

Jeff

Jeff,

Welcome to the FJRForum. With what you have done already to the bike, and your demonstrated mechanical capabilities, get your money back from that Zurich sinkhole. You were taken by that dealer, paying that kind of money for just another 6 months coverage that probably was voided when you made these mods. Take the refunded money and buy, from another dealer, the official paperback Yamaha shop manual and study it. Ask a lot of questions on this FJRForum, wear some flameproof underwear from some of the comments, do your studying, and get to know your bike. You are in connection with one of the best 'living' knowledge base there is short of having a certified Yamaha tech for a son in law. You have a good strong machine that just needs a few adjustments to bring it back up to snuff.

Brodie

Looking at the rate at which you are going after any suspected problems, you should have all this done well before the YES runs out. It should be smooth sailing once you get through this wiring question. Keep us posted on your progress.

The clutch: The grabby at slow speeds doesn't worry me as much as the slipping at max throttle. Don't recall reading about this type of clutch issue much around here. However, it's easy enough to fix. FJR clutches are normally rather bulletproof and typically last just about forever. Yours may have enjoyed a little abuse.

Since the bike has obvious horsepower mods, looks like the former owner was a little throttle happy. Did you check the air box for mods? Another typical HP trick, and I'm guessing that maybe the former owner modded that as well. Just my opinion. Not to worry, the motor should be fine.

I don't think a clutch soak will solve your problems. [EDIT: SEE MCATROPHE'S COMMENTS BELOW] First off, I'd flush the hydraulic fluid, easy enough to do. This needs to be done every couple years anyway. Clutch engagement in the middle of the range of lever travel as it should be? [EDIT: NO CLUTCH LEVER OOPS] Next, I would check those clutch disks carefully: worn out or maybe warped? Plenty of info on this forum about clutches and the process involved. I assume you've changed the motor oil and did not put in anything deemed too slippery for motorcycle clutches that might cause slippage. Ha... remembering back, I had a dirt bike that had a grabby clutch, wouldn't disengage very well. Found out that the outer teeth of the disks had chewed into the clutch basket creating little ridges in the mating surfaces. The disks would then get stuck in the ridges and couldn't slide in and out freely when the pressure plate was engaged. Fixed the clutch basket with a popsicle stick and sandpaper and a lot of elbow grease. Dropped in a new clutch pack, slapped it back together, and it worked like a charm. Not the best way to fix it, but the price was right for this backyard mechanic and it worked like new.

But concerning your clutch, if you're not sure how to check all the plates, you can certainly take 'em out and haul them down to the nearest trusted Yammie shop for inspection. Shouldn't cost much if anything at all. Also remember they can be bought online cheaper than most shops will sell them.

However, I'm thinking that your electrical concerns might be the bigger of the two problems, and certainly has the capacity to be the costlier.

Welcome to the forum. Make sure you post up exactly what you do. Feedback helps us all.

Gary

darksider #44

Gary, the OP does state his bike is an AE model so lever travel will obviously not be applicable. Your other comments still apply of course.

Just saying.

Personally, I would dump the Zurich warranty - I don't think they are promising much. Next, I would return the wiring harness to original state (bypass, cruise and other electrical farkles)and get the dealer to deal with it under YES. If they can't or wont do anything for you, I would find another dealer or re-install the bypass and check out the ignition switch myself. Neither will deal with the clutch as a wear item so do that one yourself - start with a fluid change and be prepared to replace the fibre disks. Slipping at high load is a pretty classic symptom for wrong oil, worn disks or weak spring.

As far as your other mods (exhaust etc.), they might give you some flak about modified systems causing an engine problem. It is an unlikely event and either warranty provider could refuse on the basis of the modification. Although the PCV and the cruise shouldn't be any issue, if you have an engine/fueling problem remove the PCV before you get the dealer to do anything (they don't have to know it was there). Only remove the cruise if you are dealing with an electrical problem.

YummYam said:

Gary, the OP does state his bike is an AE model so lever travel will obviously not be applicable. Your other comments still apply of course.
Just saying.

Click to expand...

Thanks Steve,

Once I got busy writing, I forgot about that. OOPS. I'll correct that now. He probably hasn't even seen it yet. I'm wondering, because of the way the AE is designed, I'm wondering if heavy fisted owners can beat that clutch to death more so than a standard clutch. You can start of in second or third gear with them things, am I right?

Gary

StarLord said:

...The clutch grabs when cold, and there is some slippage when shifting while accelerating hard...

Click to expand...

The clutch grabbing is not unknown. Can be caused either by needing a hydraulic fluid change and/or bleed, or by the clutch plates needing an oil soak. Bleeding can be a bit of a pain, but there are ways to ease the factory method. Soaking is relatively easy (look here).

As for the slipping, unless your screen shows an error code (SH__32 ??? can't remember the number), I suspect what you are experiencing is the result of a full throttle up-change. What happens is the clutch dis-engages, the gear-box changes to the next higher gear, then the engine speed is far too high for the new gear. The ECU will slip the clutch while the engine speed comes down to the right speed (it will retard the ignition in an attempt to reduce power while this is happening).

So, for a second or maybe three, you get clutch slipping and reduced power.

If this is what you are experiencing, it is correct behaviour. You can prevent this slipping, and get a faster smoother change, by momentarily dipping the throttle when you flick your shifter paddle.

Of course, not an issue at all with my 2014 .

garyahouse said:

... I'm wondering if heavy fisted owners can beat that clutch to death more so than a standard clutch. You can start of in second or third gear with them things, am I right?
Gary

Click to expand...

You can start off in fifth if you want, and yes, the clutch will slip for a long time, you won't move off very quickly!

Both my '06 and my '10 had a great deal of low speed, clutch-slipping commuting. I did soak the clutches on both because of grabbing, in neither case was there any sign of wear.

Unless you were deliberately trying to abuse it for long periods of time, I can't see that as being an issue.

I always defer to the wisdom of the forum. I put a lot of weight on the collective experience found here. My thanks to Mcatrophe for weighing in on this thread. My opinions expressed above are indeed just that... opinions. Good luck with your AE.

Gary

Yes and definitely so.

Warranties? Either factory/manufacturer's or none. 3rd party warranties often aren't honored by other dealers in town and even more often by anyone out of town. That locks you into 1 dealer on a bike that could have you on the other side of the country.