Comfort Question

Hi, Frank, new member. I've already posted in the new members section. I've got a question and really hope you guys and gals can help with an answer. I currently have a Suzuki DL650, I truly love the bike. But I want something more street oriented. I'm 52, and a conservative rider. My dealer has two FJR 1300 one 2012 and another 2015; both brand new. My question is this; The seating position on both were uncomfortable when compared to my bike. I strongly prefer the upright sitting position. These bike produced a pain in my upper shoulder. I've read the articles on the yoda position and waiting till it grows on me. However, I stopped by the BMW shop the other day and sat on a RT1200. It was completely comfortable. I then researched the forward lean angle on a motorcycle ergonomics site and it showed that the BMW had zero lean forward angle and the FJR1300 had a 2-3 inch lean angle. My question; is there a way either through bar risers or something to get the FJR1300 to the zero lean angle of the BMW? I really don't want to spend all that money on a BMW, especially when the FJR1300 2012 is going for a good price.

1200RT is an awesome machine...every time I sit on one, I instantly feel like it's "home".

That being said, there are many ways to bring the bars back on an FJR. You're somewhat limited by brake / clutch line length but a quick Google search will yield Heli, MV and MotorCycleLarry [MCL] for starters. There's several threads concerning each type and the pros & cons of each.

Moving to a FJR from a Wee will take some adjustment...not bad, just different. I'm on FJR #3 and wouldn't be without one, it's simply a spectacular motorcycle!

Good luck!

--G

Had an RT and now a FJR. Did nothing to the RT's handlebars; installed Helibars on the FJR. The seating position is now neutral. Yamaha builds in a maintenance loop for the wiring and the Helibars come with an extension for the brake line. The Helibars do limit the size of the tankbag you can use

I had a 2012 VStrom DL650 for 2 years, and loved it for the most part. The main (and only real) problem I had was wind protection and stability - especially riding in Eastern Oregon or in the dread Columbia River Gorge. I have since owned a 2008 FJR with Heli Bar risers, and I now own a 2014 FJR1300 ES.

My thoughts... first, yes, the VStrom is bolt upright... on that bike, although it was comfortable seating and riding attitude-wise right out of the box, the wind and noise was a bit much, partially due to it being so tall and exposed with the upright standard seating position. I had a similar problem with wind management on the 2008 FJR, which took a number of trials to correct - I ended up with a Rifle windscreen, which was BFUGLY, but effective.

On the 2014 ES,I have decided to modify my thinking rather than the bike. The only modification I have on the bike, besides grip puppies, is the MRA X-Creen, clamp on version. Otherwise, I am practicing Yoda position - which - for me - most of the time has a very slight forward lean. It does take some practice, and it definitely requires core strengthening - in the abdomen and upper thighs. I find that it is not only more comfortable, it is actually invigorating to ride in this position...remembering to maintain "butterfly arms", and also lifting slightly vertically off the pegs - using thigh muscles, every few miles - are very important to Yoda position...

Hope this helps...

--John

+1 to the comments of escapefjrtist: "a quick Google search will yield Heli, MV and MotorCycleLarry [MCL] for starters." If you search this forum you'll also find posts about these products. All will work very well to produce the neutral position and are approx $300 each. I have a MCL on one FJR and a MV Motorrad on the other - I like both equally. There is no need to extend cable or hoses with these options. Note that simple one inch risers are more economical but will not bring the bars back enough for a neutral position (these blocks usually raise the bars 1" and bring them back 1/2").

First thought to your dilemma. Keep the Wee along with the FJR. I have a 09 Wee and will have it for a long time Best all around bike for Colorado there is. Next. I Just traded my 2003 ST1300 of 12 years in on a 2014 FJR. I had to rise the bars with the MV Motorad Technik riser plate and installed a C Bailey shield. Still looking for a way to lower the foot pegs a bit, but because of my OLD Knees. Both bikes compliment each other wonderfully.

If considering a BMW and an FJR research maintenance costs and overall cost-of-ownership.

I put 100k on a VStrom 650 before the FJR. I put risers on the FJR which helped me get upright a little, although stock I was fine.

Biggest difference for me though is the angle of the legs from seat to pegs. Strom pegs had my feet directly below my knees. FJR has my toes back from my knees with a pretty significant knee bend. I put fwd pegs on to give the knees a break. 5'9" 30in inseam.

I'd ride the bike before commiting. Also consider the 1k Strom, 1k Versys, FJ-09. They'll keep you upright, relaxed knee bend, and provide more power.

good luck

One person's experience:

The R1200RT is a much more comfortable bike, from seating position, to ergonomics and wind management. The suspension is better, the engine is weaker (than a gen III FJR). But that comes with a much poorer warranty, much poorer factory support, much higher price, and a virtual guarantee that you will spend much more in unscheduled maintenance than you would with an FJR1300. Combine that with a virtually nonexistent service network in a lot of areas, and it makes traveling a little stressful. Depending upon the part you need, it's a tossup whether you'll have to wait for it to come from Germany or not. If you're well off and retired, and your wallet and schedule can accommodate extending a trip, flatbed transport sometimes across a state to the nearest BMW dealer, I'd buy the R1200RT. If you are more concerned with reliability, warranty, factory/warranty responsiveness, engine power, far more reasonably priced parts and accessories (the same blessed farkle often costs twice as much or more for a BMW), get the Yamaha. Switching to an FJR brought me marked wrist pain and upper back pain. My other bikes never did and still don't do this. Once I installed a heli bridge, symptoms diminished. Once I cranked the bars all the way back, symptoms are almost gone. I've been pleased with moving from an RT to an FJR1300, but only after getting excellent advice on aftermarket adjustments on this board from too many to list individually. I absolutely loved my RT, but I can tell you that I don't regret purchasing the FJR1300. It needs a significantly improved fairing and factory windscreen. For a sport tourer, it's like they forgot to install the fairing or shield before it left the factory. Other than that, excellent.

fstubbsjr said:

Hi, Frank, new member. I've already posted in the new members section. I've got a question and really hope you guys and gals can help with an answer. I currently have a Suzuki DL650, I truly love the bike. But I want something more street oriented. I'm 52, and a conservative rider. My dealer has two FJR 1300 one 2012 and another 2015; both brand new. My question is this; The seating position on both were uncomfortable when compared to my bike. I strongly prefer the upright sitting position. These bike produced a pain in my upper shoulder. I've read the articles on the yoda position and waiting till it grows on me. However, I stopped by the BMW shop the other day and sat on a RT1200. It was completely comfortable. I then researched the forward lean angle on a motorcycle ergonomics site and it showed that the BMW had zero lean forward angle and the FJR1300 had a 2-3 inch lean angle. My question; is there a way either through bar risers or something to get the FJR1300 to the zero lean angle of the BMW? I really don't want to spend all that money on a BMW, especially when the FJR1300 2012 is going for a good price.

Click to expand...

+1 to the comments of escapefjrtist: "a quick Google search will yield Heli, MV and MotorCycleLarry [MCL] for starters." If you search this forum you'll also find posts about these products. All will work very well to produce the neutral position and are approx $300 each. I have a MCL on one FJR and a MV Motorrad on the other - I like both equally. There is no need to extend cable or hoses with these options. Note that simple one inch risers are more economical but will not bring the bars back enough for a neutral position (these blocks usually raise the bars 1" and bring them back 1/2").

Click to expand...

I put the 1" block risers on mine and while I'm about the same size as 07FJRVegas, I prefer a less than neutral seating position. Just a few degrees less than vertical is best for me because of lower back problems. I'm not quite there with just the blocks but I've got a Corbin coming that will put my lean where I want it and both feet firmly on the ground when stopped. To each his own though.

I installed Gen Mar bar risers on my 06 , worked great

I installed a MV riser plate to put me at a zero lean angle. I used the tools on the motorcycle egro's site were you can plug in not only your height and inseam but it also allows you to add a riser with height and pull back to find your personal sweet spot. After the simple install of the MV plate I found it to be perfect for me at 6'-1". The new position was better for me on the wrist and shoulders.

escapefjrtist said:

1200RT is an awesome machine...every time I sit on one, I instantly feel like it's "home".
That being said, there are many ways to bring the bars back on an FJR. You're somewhat limited by brake / clutch line length but a quick Google search will yield Heli, MV and MotorCycleLarry [MCL] for starters. There's several threads concerning each type and the pros & cons of each.

Moving to a FJR from a Wee will take some adjustment...not bad, just different. I'm on FJR #3 and wouldn't be without one, it's simply a spectacular motorcycle!

Good luck!

--G

Click to expand...

Don't cha mean #4 Mr. 2015 FJR

I'm on the opposite side of you, I'd rather have the slight lean forward as I get a more sportier feeling. Not that I have a RT1200, but when I drove the more upright K1600 GTL, I just felt like a straight-up "stiff".

So if you wanna consider the BMW line, forget the measly opposing 2 bangers... the 6 cylinder will absolutely amaze you. That being said, the upright ride of the aforementioned GTL; may be right up your alley.

You can spend more on maintenance^^^, but, if you do your own as I do and most all of my Beemer friends.... it's the same. Just don't buy the BMW filters etc., Purolator or Fram will do just fine. The 3-Year Mfgr warranty is nice also, but go with the 6-banger! sweeeeeet

Unscheduled maintenance/repairs (maintenance outside tires, oil, adjustment/lube) averaged 900 a year for me. Doing it myself wouldn't have saved much.