Valve shims

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ScottMDMC

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Hi all,
I need to get into my 06 FJR and check my valve clearances. I am starting to get a ticking noise at start up. Before I tear into it I was curious what the size of the shims are, width wise. I have a set of shims from a drz400 and my buddy may still have his from his crf250. It would be awesome one of the sets were the correct size.
Thanks, Scott

 
Scott you will not get a "ticking noise" from valves that are out of adjustment. If anything, they get quieter right up to the point that the valves could burn. The idea that valves "tick" is a hangover from the old tappets, which did indeed tick and rattle when they needed adjusting. There was an issue with the early FJRs that cause a "ticking" on an exhaust valve, but it was not related to the valve to shim clearance.

Depending upon mileage, checking the valves is a reasonable thing to be doing, but you should investigate further where that noise is coming from.

Noise, especially at start-up, is often related to the Cam Chain Tensioner and will be loudest on the right side of the engine.

 
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Answering the OP's original question.

FJRs use shims 9.48mm diameter and typically between 1.75 - 1.90mm thickness, although there are always exceptions. Hot Cams is a popular kit, but there is a lot of waste with the large assortment of included sizes. Shims can also be ordered individually but the million $$$ question is what size are needed. Some have also visited their local dealer and purchased used shims of the correct size or in the case of frugal Yankee's, lapped shims to the correct thickness.
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--G

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Answering the OP's original question.
FJRs use shims 9.48mm diameter and typically between 1.75 - 1.90mm thickness, although there are always exceptions. Hot Cams is a popular kit, but there is a lot of waste with the large assortment of included sizes. Shims can also be ordered individually but the million $$$ question is what size are needed. Some have also visited their local dealer and purchased used shims of the correct size or in the case of frugal Yankee's, lapped shims to the correct thickness.
coolsmiley02.gif


 

--G
 

As they almost always need to go thinner, and you don't know what you need until the cams are out, lapping them is a good option.

 

Please lap the side with the number on so as not to cause endless grief to the next owner :D

 
As they almost always need to go thinner, and you don't know what you need until the cams are out, lapping them is a good option.

Please lap the side with the number on so as not to cause endless grief to the next owner
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Best practice is to always measure the shims with a decent micrometer whenever removing or installing shims. Then you know exactly what you have and if you are lapping the shims you will need to measure anyways to determine thickness. I developed a spreadsheet that calculates the correct shim thickness that helps you select the correct shim.

You do log your As Found and As Left readings for valve clearances and shim thickness for future reference I hope. One of the reasons I developed the spreadsheet was for record keeping.

The Owosso Tech Day Crew purchased a shim kit early on and we supplemented it with shims from Pro X that are available in .025 mm increments so we don't get into lapping shims.

Wearing the skin off the tip of my fingers lapping shims is not worth the $2 it costs for a shim. I prefer to save the skin on my fingers for hanging onto the shot glass.

 
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I does seem to be the right side of the engine. I will look into the cam chain tensioner. Do they typically go bad?

 
I does seem to be the right side of the engine. I will look into the cam chain tensioner. Do they typically go bad?
It's not uncommon. There are many posts, including at least one entire thread <Clicky here!> aboot it.

My '04 had a little rattle on the right side at startup. That was at around 75K miles. We replaced the CCT at one of the Owosso Tech Days and that rattle has not come back in 40,000 miles.

 
Another source of ticking sounds, especially after a cold engine start, is the fuel injectors. Coming from carbureted bikes, I was initially concerned with the ticking that was louder when the engine was cold (and therefore running richer = longer duration injector opening time).

With almost 100,000 miles on my 07 now, I've checked the valves 3 times and the have all been in tolerance each time so ticking wasn't related to valve clearances. After reading about CCT failures, I did change out to the new model CCT at some point in there even though I didn't have the rattling sound from the right side of the engine. Bike is still running just fine.

 
tru dat....should hear the Delphi injectors on my old Silverado when cold....sounds like skeletons screwing on a tin roof...in a hailstorm

 
Wow, I just looked at the possibility of replacing the cam tensioner. Is it possible to change that out without dropping the motor? I do need to get a slimmer longer screwdriver try checking the thing. I'll see what Ace has tomorrow.

 
Wow, I just looked at the possibility of replacing the cam tensioner. Is it possible to change that out without dropping the motor? I do need to get a slimmer longer screwdriver try checking the thing. I'll see what Ace has tomorrow.
Yes, it's actually quite easy. The bad news is that it will take you about 2 hours the first time you do it, and about 30 mins if you ever have to do it again :)

Read the thread and don't drop any fasteners inside the frame. Also, cutting down an 8mm wrench so that it clears the clutch cover makes the job a whole lot easier.

 
I don't think I'd buy the hot cams kit again. Buy shims from 1.50mm to 1.95mm in 0.025mm increments. It will cost you about $100 to buy 3 each of those online, but that's a nice supply to have sitting around to deal with the valve adjustments.

 
I got the bike all back together again last week. The cct wasnt horrible to replace, small hands help. The hardest part was getting that final cap bolt started. I dropped it in the frame about 4 times. It stopped the ticking sound, Very pleased.

I also hd to replace the stearing stem bearings this winter. Also not a horrible job. The lower race was not fun to get seated, but it went. I replaced them with the All Balls roller bearings. Very happy with them. My bike feels great again maybe better than it ever did.

 
That "Lessons Learned on the CCT" thread should be stickied for eternity. It's better than any service manual could ever be.

Glad you are back together.

 
I don't think I'd buy the hot cams kit again. Buy shims from 1.50mm to 1.95mm in 0.025mm increments. It will cost you about $100 to buy 3 each of those online, but that's a nice supply to have sitting around to deal with the valve adjustments.
Unfortunately, three of each size may not be enough. When I re-shimmed my 1st gen a while back I needed to adjust all eight intakes. I (would have) needed four 1.75 and four 1.725 shims if I were using .025mm increment shims. I would have had to use eight of the 1.75mm shims if I was using the standard 0.05mm increments.

I sanded the original shims down to the required sizes using a micrometer instead of waiting to get the correct sized shims.

 
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