No More Crush Washers?

Bought a Low mileage 2012 recently and decided it was time to get the engine and rear end oil changed. When I drained the engine oil I noticed that it had an aluminum washer instead of a crush washer. It was the same for the two bolts on the rear end. Drain bolt had the same washer and so did the filler bolt. Did Yamaha switch to these sometime between 2008 when I bought my last FJR and the 2012 model? Just curious if this is OEM.

GP

Nope. My 2014 still has crush washers. Maybe the PO put them on yours

They both serve the same purpose.....

Aluminum washers are a soft material which will work just fine.....

I prefer copper, although in sealing terms the aluminum ones are fine. The copper variety are simply easier to anneal.

I use either copper or alloy peel washers on my bikes.

The Stelvio came stock with alloy.

Think I know why they didn't use crush washers.......stopped into the local Yamaha dealer to buy 2 for changing the final drive oil. Thought, what the heck, might as well buy a couple extras while I'm here. Cashier rung them up - $20 for four!

its just rain said:

Think I know why they didn't use crush washers.......stopped into the local Yamaha dealer to buy 2 for changing the final drive oil. Thought, what the heck, might as well buy a couple extras while I'm here. Cashier rung them up - $20 for four!

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I just use an appropriate sized oil drain plug washer from an auto parts shop. The official yamaparts are way pricey.

This is what I used since my 1st oil change on oil drain/drive fill/drain:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C14QO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

An aluminum washer will work just fine. However, as far as I can tell, FJRs still come with a crush washer.

I'm still using my original crush washers. No leaks yet.

Well this thing just had 4,500 miles on it when I bought it. Probably hadn't had but one oil change. The oil I drained was pretty dark. The rear end oil was extremely black with very fine silver in it. Don't know how long it had been since the change. The guy I bought it from hadn't done anything to it except put sliders on it. He was the second owner and hadn't had it long before the wife made him sell it. I think maybe mine was the second service. Rear end might not have been serviced at all. Oh well, it's all good now. I think I'll run with the Aluminum washers for a while. They haven't been leaking. Thanks for all the comments.

GP

FJR crush washers are stupid expensive now. Once my stash of crush washers is exhausted, I'll switch to the aluminum washers my Tenere uses or something similar. Never any drips on it...or the FJR for that matter!

--G

I think aluminum crush washers void your warranty.....kinda like using snap-on torque wrenches on your plastic window screws.

Well this puppy is out of warranty. The previous owners never bought the yes within the first year. But thanks for the dry humor anyway odot.

GP

Twigg said:

I prefer copper, although in sealing terms the aluminum ones are fine. The copper variety are simply easier to anneal.

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I had to google "anneal".

I learn something from this board everyday.

It would be my guess you still had the original oil in the engine and rear end. Still low mileage and now its changed. Water over the dam at this point.

Dave

danh600 said:

Twigg said:

I prefer copper, although in sealing terms the aluminum ones are fine. The copper variety are simply easier to anneal.

Click to expand...

I had to google "anneal".

I learn something from this board everyday.

Click to expand...

I learned how to do it in High School, when we planished (google) copper.

Copper washers are expensive, and the drain plug type are the most expensive of all because they are bigger than, say, brake banjo washers.

Just heat the washer slowly with a propane torch. Get it nice and glowing, then quench it in a cup of cold water. Don't use your fingers for that last bit.

The washer will come out looking very "pink", rather than the dull brown thing you heated, and it will be very soft, perfect for sealing. There is no practical limit to the number of times you can do this.

I use Washer sealing (3963988cum)! I buy from Inland Kenworth here in Canada. About 3.50 ea. They are self sealing and I have been re using for the last 6 years without any problems. Sorry I wasn't able to post an image?

I understand that for the 2016 models Yamaha is eliminating a washer of any sort and calling for the non thread plug to be welded in place. This will entail all changes being made at a Yamaha Service Center at a cost of about $600... plus Yamaha fluids.