LED Rider LR-4 Floodlights - Which wire is Positive (+) and which is Negative (-) Blue or Brown

I've been taking advantage of the snowy weax today, I got my FZ1 fuse block installed, am finishing up wiring my Radar Detector and TomTom to the new FZ1.

Next on the list is to wire up my LED Rider LR-4 Floodlights but I can't figure out which wire is + and which is -. Anyone that has done this please post or PM me the answer.

Thanks

John

Found this looking quickly, if your installing dimmer... Hope it helps

Dimmer:

Blue wire taps into highbeam wire. We suggest a fuse there as a safety measure. No need for a switch there. What that will do is make the dimmer go to full power when you switch on the highbeams.

Black wire on dimmer goes to ground.

Grey wire on dimmer goes to light positive (red)

White wire on dimmer goes to light negative (black)

Yeah I saw that, but my lights have brown and blue vice red and black?

I bet on the come and used blue as the ground, brown as the positive.

Skene design diagram sort of suggested blue as ground.

Smoke test complete, lights come on low when key is on.

Tank off at the moment so I can't confirm high power function as lights don't come on unless bike is running.

Have all day tomorrow to finish.

Thanks for your help.

Yeah I wired mine backwards at first, but easily corrected switching at the fuzeblock was no big deal...

bigjohn, sounds like you figgered it out already, I had the same questions of Justin when I purchased the lights a while ago.

From Justin:

Brown wire is hot and the blue wire is earth, per IEC standards

Click to expand...

Question for you or another GEN III owner: Which relay / wire is used for the high beam trigger??

TIA

--G

escapefjrtist said:

bigjohn, sounds like you figgered it out already, I had the same questions of Justin when I purchased the lights a while ago.
From Justin:

Brown wire is hot and the blue wire is earth, per IEC standards

Click to expand...

Question for you or another GEN III owner: Which relay / wire is used for the high beam trigger??

TIA

--G

Click to expand...

With "two-wire" lights there are two ways to trigger them from the high beams.

First is through a standard relay. Use the high beam circuit to switch on the relay with the other two terminals connected to 12V +ve.

Second way is through a Skene Dimmer, or similar, which allows the lights to be on 100% with the high beams, and a selectable %age with the low beams.

Clearwater lights and some others have this function built into the light, which has three wires (one is the trigger). They are, however, seriously expensive.

Just use standard relay wiring, there are about a million diagrams just a google search away.

I'm using the Skene 175A for my controller with a three position switch to enable me to change the low beam driving light settings.

bigjohnsd said:

I'm using the Skene 175A for my controller with a t position switch to enable me to change the low beam DRI ing light settings.

Click to expand...

Skene 175 controller is what we're using too. Probably not going to install the toggle switch, might add it later.

Where are you tapping for the white high beam wire?

--G

The full wiring diagram (using his dimmer) is on Justin's web site:



Per the above, the Brown wire in the LED pigtail is the positive, the Blue wire is the ground.

My version of the above, includes a relay for ignition switching the lights, and 2A fuse protection for the high beam trigger wire

Fred, I studied that damn diagram twice and missed the "brown or Red" and "blue or black"!

Eventually I assumed there must be a " standard" based upon the Skene Design diagram, I guessed right!

escapefjrtist said:

bigjohnsd said:

I'm using the Skene 175A for my controller with a t position switch to enable me to change the low beam DRI ing light settings.

Click to expand...

Skene 175 controller is what we're using too. Probably not going to install the toggle switch, might add it later.

Where are you tapping for the white high beam wire?

--G

Click to expand...

I tapped into the yellow high beam lead going into the left headlamp using a red posi-tap. Had to untape the harness a bit but had just enough room to tape it back together when done.

bigjohnsd said:

escapefjrtist said:

bigjohnsd said:

I'm using the Skene 175A for my controller with a t position switch to enable me to change the low beam DRI ing light settings.

Click to expand...

Skene 175 controller is what we're using too. Probably not going to install the toggle switch, might add it later.

Where are you tapping for the white high beam wire?

--G

Click to expand...

I tapped into the yellow high beam lead going into the left headlamp using a red posi-tap. Had to untape the harness a bit but had just enough room to tape it back together when done.

Click to expand...

Thanks John, exactly what I was looking for.

--G

escapefjrtist said:

bigjohnsd said:

escapefjrtist said:

bigjohnsd said:

I'm using the Skene 175A for my controller with a t position switch to enable me to change the low beam DRI ing light settings.

Click to expand...

Skene 175 controller is what we're using too. Probably not going to install the toggle switch, might add it later.
Where are you tapping for the white high beam wire?

--G

Click to expand...

I tapped into the yellow high beam lead going into the left headlamp using a red posi-tap. Had to untape the harness a bit but had just enough room to tape it back together when done.

Click to expand...

Thanks John, exactly what I was looking for.
--G

Click to expand...

+1

Can't find them, a I am having a senior moment and can't recall the name of the guy who fabs the parts.........but what are people using for mounts for the LR4's? I want to mount them at the mirror mounts....

Nevermind...found it.

Most of use .....

Neverminded.

Im in the process of ordering a set of LD5 lamps from Justin.

Why not just use a regular on/off switch through a relay?

That's all that I do with my current PIAAs.

Canadian FJR

Canadian FJR said:

Im in the process of ordering a set of LD5 lamps from Justin.Why not just use a regular on/off switch through a relay?

That's all that I do with my current PIAAs.

Canadian FJR

Click to expand...

You could do that but many desire to run them at low power for da and night visibility and to have them come on at full power when the High Beams are on. In addition, the Skene Design controller, a Pulse Width Modulator device, enables you to decrease your power draw while running at lower levels and to wire the controller in such a way that when you blow your horn or flash your headlights the LED lights go through a rapid flashing sequence. That sequence has saved me from having someone pull out in front of me several times.

Canadian FJR said:

Im in the process of ordering a set of LD5 lamps from Justin.Why not just use a regular on/off switch through a relay?

That's all that I do with my current PIAAs.

Canadian FJR

Click to expand...

You can sure do that. Like bigjohn, I use a Skene controller and have the LR4s as a supplemental DRL. Normal running, the LR4s are set to 20%, high beam trigger gives me 100%. I do occasionally re-program the 20% setting to 30% or 40% when I do a lot of night riding. They're still not too terribly bright but fill in the low beam pattern very nicely. I did not install the Skene toggle switch option on the FJR, though did use it on the Tenere.

--G