Farkling Parts

There's a thread title that will get your attention!!!!

Now that I've got the new bike, it's time to make it mine. I've been reading threads and watching videos for a couple days now. Plenty to learn - that's part of the fun.

I'll use this thread to document my progress and to ask for help. This is gonna take a while because my savings are tapped out just from buying the bike But it doesn't cost anything to research, so here goes....

I'll start with the electrical issues:

1. I'm looking at replacing my Centech fuse block with the FuzeblocK fz-1. I want this one because it includes the built in relay. For those that have this one, can I decide (on a circuit by circuit basis) which circuits are "ignition hot" and which ones are "always hot"? IOW - it looks like you just reposition the fuse to determine which way you want to run the circuit?

2. I want to run my Tom Tom gps power wire directly to the fuze block. The connector is a mini-USB. I now realize that the TOM TOM runs on 5 volts DC- if I plug that directly to the fuse block, bad things are probably going to happen. Does anybody make a shielded wire that has a Mini-USB on one side, some kind of step down x-former, and then open wires that can be screwed into the fuze block on the other? Otherwise, I'll have to run a 2nd 12-volt cigarette socket to the handle bars (looks like crap).

3. I want to get a waterproof light switch for some LED fork mounted lights that I haven't purchased yet. I would assume this switch would come with two wires already sealed into the switch. I can just use this to break the hot for the lights, and then run that to an "ignition hot" circuit on the fuzeblock. Any thoughts for this?

4. I'd like to mount my ampli-rider right next to the fuzeblock (under the rider seat). Again, put that on a "ignition hot" circuit. For Input/output cables - I'd like to run 1/8 audio cables with 90 degree male on one end (the ampli-rider end), and straight female on the other. I'd like to run these under or along side the gas tank to the handlebars. Tie wrap them where the throttle wires go. Then I can just plug in my MP3 player and my ear buds to the female connectors. I need a real high quality cable that can take some heat. Thoughts? Suggestions?

5. I need to be able to charge the phone and MP3 player while I'm touring (think - camping, no electricity). I could use the factory 12V socket for that, but IIRC, that socket is only hot when the key is in the on position? Kind of sucks if you want to charge the phone over night. Thoughts?

Again, I'd appreciate any help you can offer.

I'd suggest really LOUD pants. LOUD pants save lives.

1. Yes.

2. See #5

3. Not sure about your assumptions or question exactly. Some light manufactures include a switch...would probably be water resistant if a motorcycle specific application.

4. I wouldn't think heat is going to be a problem. However, I found when I installed my FZ-1 I used that raceway to run many power wires. You really want to run an audio cable down the same route?

5. I have a "powered" tank bag that has all manner of power source including 1 split cigarette lighter, one of those ports converted to a dual-USB charger, and one that could even go to a coupler with 4 USB ports + another cigarette plug that's big, ugly, and utilitarian. Also an SAE pigtail, barrier strip, and even other stuff. he point of a powered tank bag is it can become a Rube Goldberg area for low-power gadgets including cell, GPS, Sena charging, work lamp, etc. I actually use a tupperware container inside it to try and mitigate the potential rats nest.

The ability to assign "constant on" and "switched on" for each individual circuit is the Fuzeblock's best feature, IMHO. My experience with GPS units is limited to Garmins. Two of the nuvis that I use on bikes have the mini connector for power in, but running 5V in via an A to usb mini cable resulted in the GPS going into "USB mode". I even shorted the data leads to make it a "charge only" style cable, no luck. I ended up having to use the Garmin power cable plugged into a 12V receptacle, YMMV with the Tom Tom. For charging a phone (or other 5V accessory) and powering a nuvi, I made this bracket with a 12V tap and two 5V taps



going to a switched circuit on the Fuzeblock. I kept it switched because some 5V taps can run a battery down over time. With my phone in a RAM mount and plugged in while the bike's going, it stays charged. For a light switch, I use this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022ZV1KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 that FredW was kind enough to post here. It's worked well, but might require a bracket.

I wouldn't put your lights on a switch. I would wire them through a Skene controller. If you get the right model you can wire in a button to activate a flash sequence. When you are coming up on that cage you think is gonna do something weird you hit that button and your LEDs go hyper drawing all kinds of attention.

Pants, questions for you which might help.

• Do you run with a tank-bag? And would you be removing the GPS at various times i.e. lunch breaks or overnights? This might steer you when wiring up the electronics. FredW I believe has a good example of being able to easily disconnect the electronics and walk away with everything when needed.
  
  
• Do you want your fork lights dim-able or made to come on with your high-beams? Might alleviate the need for a switch.
  
  
• Any thoughts of some kind of comm system in the near future? Either for your passenger or to another rider? This might negate the need for the Amplirider altogether. But to offer one hopefully helpful input, even though I did away with the Mix-It when I got the new Zumo with B/T, I'm still using wired ear-buds. These plug into a regular extension cable running along the side and under the tank. Nothing special or insulating, just a regular extension picked up at Radio Shack, but has been under there now for a few years and never had a problem.

Wish you luck and will be following along here.

Pants, this just works better and is in the same price range as the light you are going to put on the forks.

Price: $170.00

LR4 features listed below:
4x Cree XML U2 LEDs
Custom Engineered Mirrored Reflector for a Focused Beam
3500+ Lumens
2.2 Amps @ 12v
12-36 Volts DC Input
Thermal Protection
Heavy duty mounting hardware is included at no cost. These lights are well built, with an extremely solid feel; and amazing performance.

Price: $55.00

WynPro Anti-Vibe Light Brackets

WynPro Anti-Vibe light brackets for a 2014ES with stock mirrors.

Price: $67.00 shipped

Skene Design

Intelligent Lighting Controller, Model: IQ-175 , Vehicle: 2014 Yamaha FJR1300

You will have another $20.00 in mics stuff to get this all hooked up but it works and looks awesome. And you don't need a water proof switch or a dimmer switch. Skene's does that for you.

Okay Pants, I'm done with my sales pitch.

hppants said:

2. I want to run my Tom Tom gps power wire directly to the fuze block. The connector is a mini-USB. I now realize that the TOM TOM runs on 5 volts DC- if I plug that directly to the fuse block, bad things are probably going to happen. Does anybody make a shielded wire that has a Mini-USB on one side, some kind of step down x-former, and then open wires that can be screwed into the fuze block on the other? Otherwise, I'll have to run a 2nd 12-volt cigarette socket to the handle bars (looks like crap).

Click to expand...

Powerlet custom made a 5 volt converter line (from 12 volts to 5 volts with a mini USB plug). I use this for the GPS and have it fused and hardwired (Posi-tapped) into the front

running lights. I wanted it switched so the GPS goes on and off with the ignition/running

lights. It was about $30 back in 2011.

Pants, this is my answer to your windshield question you asked over the phone. That is a factory Gen3 shield laid on top of the Cee Bailey Sport Shield. I really think you need to ride mine to see since you are a lot taller than me, but this thing works better than it looks like it should.

Well I almost completely agree with Niehart:

if you buy the Skene 175A controller you can wire it through a three position switch so that you can change the brightness of the LR4 to three pre programmed (by you) settings. I did mine that way and it works great, the quick two flashes of the highbeams initiates a random blinking sequence out of the LR4's that really gets the cagers attention. I tried it out last weekend and once initiated it caused several idiots to stop from pulling out in front of me!

The Antivibraton mounts are really good, especially when paired with a set of FZ1 mirrors, I can actually see behind me on both sides now. No more frocking elbows!

Your TomTom must be an older one than mine, mine runs on 12volts DC and has a waterproof plug that attaches into the mounting cradle. The 5v power supply must be contained within the mounting cradle. My Micro or Mini USB is only used to connect up to my computer to update or download maps/routes from Tyre. It also charges through the USB when attached to the computer.

Subscribed...this will be fun to watch!

FZ-1 is a great addition for powering goodies, you'll like it!

--G

bigjohnsd said:

Your TomTom must be an older one than mine, mine runs on 12volts DC and has a waterproof plug that attaches into the mounting cradle. The 5v power supply must be contained within the mounting cradle. My Micro or Mini USB is only used to connect up to my computer to update or download maps/routes from Tyre. It also charges through the USB when attached to the computer.

Click to expand...

All of the Riders since the original have used a mounting cradle (with built-in 12v converter), so I suspect 'pants must be using one of the non-motorcycle specific TomTom units, BJ.

wheatonFJR said:

I'd suggest really LOUD pants. LOUD pants save lives.

Click to expand...

Bet these'd work.

Must have missed a thread, Pants. You were looking last I saw, now you're farkling. Congrats on a quick and successful search.

bigjohnsd said:

Your TomTom must be an older one than mine, mine runs on 12volts DC and has a waterproof plug that attaches into the mounting cradle. The 5v power supply must be contained within the mounting cradle. My Micro or Mini USB is only used to connect up to my computer to update or download maps/routes from Tyre. It also charges through the USB when attached to the computer.

Click to expand...

All Tomtoms run on 5 volts.

They all rely on a regulator built into the powered cradle (there is an unpowered cradle available, some units were sold with this).

Using the cradle, the unit is totally weather-proof. If you power it from the mini-USB socket, then the flap that covers it will be open, that will let in the mixture of fog, smog, diesel fumes and - most importantly - water, that we laughingly call "air".

Why not use the cradle?

Wow - thanks for the feedback - this is really appreciated.

If loud Pants saved lives, imagine what he could do if he knew how to ride that thing?

Follow up on Post #1:

1A - If I understand your response, the only function of the light controller is to allow me to dim the aux. lights at night? If so, that is not an issue for me.

1B - I'm planning to mount the aux lights on the forks. I'm a firm believer in the "triangle of light" theory.

1C - for my gen I, I drilled a hole in my Panel "D" and used a bulkhead style toggle switch with a grommet. Looked ok, but I can't bring myself to drilling a brand new bike. I need a completely sealed switch that has the wires hanging out that I can "glue" or otherwise attach to the clutch m/c reservoir. Suggestions welcome!!

1D - my T/T GPS is a "made for car" device - I bought it with a quart sized Ziploc bag. 1/6th the cost, works just as good. Townsend, is this the cable you are referring to:

https://www.powerlet.com/product/battery-harness-to-mini-usb-charging-cable/624

($55.00?????)

1E - I use a tank bag but discovered that over the years, the clear coat on my Gen I tank was scuffed from the magnetic bag flaps. I was thinking about attaching something thin (felt, microcloth, etc) to the flaps for this bike. Thin enough not to affect the strength of the magnets. Thoughts?

1F - Thanks for the advice on audio cables. There seems to be a nice "trough" of space between the tank and the side plastic on both sides to run cables and wiring.

1G - Intercomm is out of the budget for now. WAY down the line - maybe. But not now.

And now for some new questions:

2A - Can anyone confirm that the Givi SR-357 rack will work with the MONOLOC boxes (as opposed to Mono-KEY)?

2B - I'd like to hear thoughts on frame slides for the gen III. Anything that requires a fairing "cut" is out. But otherwise, installation (remove plastic or not), cost, looks (add a pic), ??????

2C - Is this the wire I need to "tap" into (using connectors, not cutting the wire) to supply a trigger for my relay?

hppants said:

... Is this the wire I need to "tap" into (using connectors, not cutting the wire) to supply a trigger for my relay?...

Click to expand...

It's the blue wire (has a red tracer before the connector), which supplies the tail and number-plate lights.

Re the Powerlet, mine has the same rectangular "converter" but with NO coil wire and NO fuse.

I used a posi-tap brand fuse holder at my power distribution block.

At the GPS end, there is a short(maybe 4") extension (male and female ends). The short piece is zip tied

permanently to the Ram mount ( https://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-HOL-GA44U ). My GPS is an automotive unit.

The converter and longer line has the mini end on it. I have that securred running up on the RS of the frame head and connects to the short(4") piece. I didn't order it that way BUT it worked out so that short piece can be unplugged from the main line should I want to remove the entire unit.

Note. The stock, coiled line is made of much thinner wire. I had to send it back and havethe use the next size thicker so I could work with it, soldier, etc. Been on there about 4 years now..

For 1C; if there's still a mirror mount on the clutch perch, it'd be a good place to bend up a smal bracket. Bolt it to the perch, bend and drill a hole for a toggle switch. On my old 04, I used a larger bolt for that perch bracket. Then drilled the center out and tapped it (I believe an M5) and used that smaller bolt to secure a plate there



I have a couple of those plates made up but no "threaded plugs".

Congratulations!!! I missed the took delivery thread or post.

The very first farkle on any of my bikes is always a.... PDM60

This is the stepping stone to all your upcoming (powered) farkles. Good luck and enjoy!!