wheel bearing replacement

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terryfarnham

terryfarnham

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Location
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Do not buy yamaha replacement bearings go to a supplier and take the 4 digit number off the wheel bearing.. Alot cheaper. The only way that seems to work pulling them is using a blind hole bearing puller kit The rear needs the 20mm attachment. I am using this tool and will post pictures as I proceed to do the job 1 of the bearings is a double row quite large over 20mm. It would take the slide hammer included to pull it and heating up the hub ( propane torch) would also be a good idea
not_i.gif
well here goes

 
My original wheel bearings are just fine at 110,000 miles. When it is time to replace them I'm putting OEM ones back in there.

I heard somewhere that some some aftermarket bearings that folks used in their steering stem didn't work out so good.

 
I think I could use front wheel bearings so I'm interested in what you're doing . I have had no issues with tapered stem bearings. All Balls I think.

 
I have had a few sets of all balls steering head bearings that went to hell way to early. The set in my wing is showing signs of early death with only 10k on them. I usually try to get good quality American or European made bearings. I don't think the stuff coming out of Asia has the quality it should. I've Chinese spindle bearings in mowers give up after one season but good American Timken bearings last for many years.

 
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I'd have to go back and look, Now that you mention it I remember installing Timken tapered bearings. Whether or not those came from All Balls is beyond me, or maybe I was warned off All Balls. I cannot remember.

-=MD

 
Don't forget to check the inner bearing on the rear... That one is highly neglected and poorly sealed.

If it takes a shit, yer in for a world of Hurt.

 
From Bike Bandit fitch.. #6.. That thing will ruin a tech weekend Just as Fitter, Ray, or Tripper Mike.

ya0409018036_zpsv9ume62n.gif


It went dry and welded itself to the carrier, took several hours to get it out and another hour with an improvised OD grinder to get the sleeve workable enough for mike to get home.

 
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the 2 regular caged bearings are 6304 and 6204 these I replaced. the needle bearing on the drive side was still good well lubed always grease axle before installing. hopefully the pictures tells all. remove hub drive side to replace that bearing just don't forget to install the spacer inside hub before driving in the bearing. Hopefully this helps some of us.

 
Bustanut joker said:
From Bike Bandit fitch.. #6.. That thing will ruin a tech weekend Just as Fitter, Ray, or Tripper Mike.
ya0409018036_zpsv9ume62n.gif
mmy

terryfarnham said:
the 2 regular caged bearings are 6304 and 6204 these I replaced. the needle bearing on the drive side was still good well lubed always grease axle before installing. hopefully the pictures tells all. remove hub drive side to replace that bearing just don't forget to install the spacer inside hub before driving in the bearing. Hopefully this helps some of us.
Click to expand...
that is number 6 on the chart that I did not have to replace but lubed it

It went dry and welded itself to the carrier, took several hours to get it out and another hour with an improvised OD grinder to get the sleeve workable enough for mike to get home.
Click to expand...
 
The OP is concerned with price ? Parts shark for OEM stuff, any additional cost is worth it. You know the part fits and is designed for the task....no question.

Rear wheel replacement is a bitch, that inner one is a mo fo. PVC pipe and a hammer. Heat the wheel first.

 
I just received a full set of replacement wheel bearings (stock Yamaha)- both front & rear. I was expecting two front and three rear.

Surprise, there are four bearings in the rear. One on the right, one in the middle and not one but two on the left.

Canadian FJR

 
Canadian FJR said:
I just received a full set of replacement wheel bearings (stock Yamaha)- both front & rear. I was expecting two front and three rear.
Surprise, there are four bearings in the rear. One on the right, one in the middle and not one but two on the left.

Canadian FJR
Click to expand...
Scott

Were your bearings shot or was it just a preventative maintenance thing? I replaced my front bearings earlier this year (130,000 mi) but still have the original rear bearings. When I checked them, they didn't feel notchy like the front ones. I was debating whether I should do the rear ones this winter or not.

 
RossKean said:
[...I replaced my front bearings earlier this year (130,000 mi) but still have the original rear bearings. When I checked them, they didn't feel notchy like the front ones. I was debating whether I should do the rear ones this winter or not.
Click to expand...
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 
Wheel bearings are a wear item, best to replace before failure. How do you get 130K on bearings ??? Goodness they must be dry and hot.......I know a Texas girl....

 
Hi Ross,

I have extra rims and wanted to ensure that they all have good bearings. I bought these to have on hand for the next tire tire change. If I don't need them then I will set them on the shelf for another day.

Canadian FJR

 
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