Keyed hot wire (under seat) on 2015 1300ES-

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Neonguy95

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Looking to mount a heated gear accessory plug near the pillion seat. Won't need it until after summer, but rather be safe than sorry.

Am I better to go all the way to the battery? Is there some where under the seat I can pick up safely?

She only runs gloves and a jacket, but normally on high if they are on.

Thanks for any help,

Rusty

 
I think most, including myself, run higher demand stuff like heated gear through a secondary fuse system such as a fuzeblock

It's safer that way, and allows you to easily add other things later, (and you will. Yes, yes you will!)

 
All manufactures size the wire right to the nats a$$ and there is very little room for adding extra load (amps)

I would probably use the blue wire under the left side panel that goes to the tail light as a trigger wire for a replay that is powered from the batter to power up any heated gear.

just my 2 cents worth

you are not going to find a wire that has enough amps left to add heated gear. it will work for a while once you replace the fuse but it is not a good idea to do that for the long haul

 
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Where or how do you ground your devices using your fuse block. Did you order or make a grounding block that feeds back to the battery?
I ran a 10 gauge + and a 10 gauge - from the battery to under the seat,

the + goes to the fuze block and the - has a larger terminal ring that all grounds go to with (1) bolt going through them all. so all grounds are in the same place with (1) bolt tied to a 10 gauge wire going to the battery

fuze block - GPS - GMRS - Whelin Tir3 - Powerlet - AdMore - radar all go to the same location for ground

 
Where or how do you ground your devices using your fuse block. Did you order or make a grounding block that feeds back to the battery?
I ran a 10 gauge + and a 10 gauge - from the battery to under the seat,

the + goes to the fuze block and the - has a larger terminal ring that all grounds go to with (1) bolt going through them all. so all grounds are in the same place with (1) bolt tied to a 10 gauge wire going to the battery

fuze block - GPS - GMRS - Whelin Tir3 - Powerlet - AdMore - radar all go to the same location for ground
Where did you mount the fuse block?

 
I think most, including myself, run higher demand stuff like heated gear through a secondary fuse system such as a fuzeblock
It's safer that way, and allows you to easily add other things later, (and you will. Yes, yes you will!)
this exactly - run beefy hot and ground wires directly from battery to fuzeblock. Mount under seat where the tools go. Don't worry, be happy.

 
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Grounding requirements depend somewhat on what you intend on powering with the power distribution block.

If all you are powering with your fuzeblock will be heated gear and the like, then you can just make a good ground connection anywhere on the frame. I just used the seat latch stud/nut for picking up a ground for powering our heated gear in my Frugal Yankee PDB.

OTOH, if you will also be powering sensitive electronic or audio devices, conventional wisdom is to run a dedicated large gauge ground wire all the way back to the battery. I say conventional wisdom because a long unshielded ground wire run through the engine area can actually pick up more ground noise than just grounding to the frame, which is a giant conductor itself.

Also, some electronic devices (many GPSes for example) are relatively insensitive to ground quality as they have a regulated power supply that is only used to charge the battery that the device runs on. That provides some isolation in that regard, but the audio output on any hardwired cables may pick up noise from the ground wire. Bluetooth audio should be relatively unaffected.

 
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I mounted it under the passenger's seat under the rubber holder. I will email you a picture of it

 
Agree that you should power these items directly from the battery....but....you can use your idea of a switched wire with a relay to ensure that the connectors for your accessories are not hot all of the time. If you want it hot all the time, great. But if you don't, get yourself an automotive 12v sealed relay (20 or 30 amp contact rating will be more than enough) and tap into the tail light wire to get switched voltage to drive the relay coil. With this setup, when you turn on the switch, your powerlets are hot and ready (connected to the battery b+ via the relay contacts) and when you turn the switch off, they go dead. So you have a couple of ways to go. If you use the relay, you don't need the fuse block but you should always fuse the B+ line going to your powerlet connections with a fuse rated at about 1.5 to 2 times the current you expect to draw with the accessory.

 
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