Pivot Maintenance - FJR Stand?

Hello,

I'm doing all the pivot maintenance (lubing Swingarm, U-joint, shaft splines, relay arm bearings etc.) and need to remove the center stand to get the relay arm (boomerang) off.

I can't lift the bike from above because my garage has dry walled ceiling so I can't throw straps over the rafters etc.

What else can be used to lift the bike under the motor so that I can remove the center stand?

I have the rear wheel removed, shock removed and final drive. I'm not going to be putting the OEM shock back in after all this work. I'm looking at putting in an OHLINS YA052.

You could fabricate a pipe stand. There's a link around here somewhere...

Edit: This may give you sufficient information on how to fabricate one from threaded pipe sections

I made a similar one from some scrap square tubing and bits of angle iron.

bluesdog said:

You could fabricate a pipe stand. There's a link around here somewhere...

Click to expand...

Yep. Here.

I used a 7" ladder as a derrick to hold the ass up with some ratchet straps.

People are going to give me a hard time for this, but when I had to do mine, I used the floor jack with the wood support to lift the bike initially. Next, I opened my garage door up, then unplugged the opener. On the garage door itself, the hardware that links adjoining door panels is stamped steel and had a natural place to slip a nylon strap through. I then used this as a point from which to lever the back tire of the FJR off the ground.

I would note that the garage door that I have is solid wood and very heavy (several hundred pounds based on the spring tension required to set the door to be neutral), there's no way I would do this on a plastic garage door. You might also look at the various bits of steel that hang the door itself, as you may be able to slip a strap in at one of the support points. (Focus on letting the angle iron hold the weight at an angle that pulls down on the angle iron, not laterally)

If all else fails, I have hung precarious amounts of weight from self tapping eye bolts in the 3/8"-1/2" range screwed into ceiling joists. If you're ultra paranoid, put two of them into the ceiling into the same joist, maybe 6" apart. If one fails, the bike will drop about 3".

I like the ladder idea!

audiowize said:

If all else fails, I have hung precarious amounts of weight from self tapping eye bolts in the 3/8"-1/2" range screwed into ceiling joists. If you're ultra paranoid, put two of them into the ceiling into the same joist, maybe 6" apart. If one fails, the bike will drop about 3".

Click to expand...

I've done that too! Works very well! And doesn't screw up the drywall.

not a great pic, but you get the idea... a ladder like that is handy for lots of things and a good investment.

Clever

I made something similar to the pipe stand out of 2x4s and 2x12s. The cross beam is right vertical over the lift points and I'm using cinch straps to hold it up so that I can remove the center stand.

Thanks for all the ideas.

I just just used a few Dremel bits on my 07, works a treat.

what did you dremel off, the bolt in the relay arm?

Just that part of the exhaust bracket that causes the interference.

You will also need to cut a few threads off from that bolt.



Makes servicing real easy, no need to ever sling the bike.

I know of a few bikes around with the mod done, never been any problems.

One member did weld in a small gusset to strengthen the exhaust hanger.

Will be doing the mod on my Gen3 soon, a mate has a bike lifter and a better tool to grind away the metal.

I serviced the linkages when I first bought the 14, no factory lube at all, and just now a year after, was very surprised how dry the bearings got.

A lot to do for one lousy bolt, you can clean and lube all bar pivot without slinging the bike.

Nice idea because I was ready to drop the exhaust system. I already have it up on the sling, but I still can't get the center stand off because two of the bolts that hold the center stand on are behind the exhaust pipes. I found some forum threads that suggested cutting the center stand bolts and getting shorter ones and insert from the opposite side. Still a lot of work just to finally get to the upper relay arm bolt.

If the Gen 1 setup is similar to the Gen 2, you can remove the two exhaust header bracket bolts just ahead of the center stand bracket.

Note there's a small wire bracket on the left side tucked under there that holds a drain hose. Part of that wire is sticking out in such a manner as to restrict movement of the left exhaust header. This loop of wire can be safely bent out of the way, allowing the exhaust header to be 'sprung' down sufficiently to access the forward center stand bracket bolt.

Once you bend that stupid bit of wire out of the way, you can use a bit of stout wood to spring the exhaust header.

When you replace the bolts for the center stand bracket, reverse those two so the nut is on the outside. You may use shorter bolts so they don't touch the header pipe.

That 'dremel' mod is an excellent one, and I'll be doing that to my feej next time.

Hi Bluesdog,

Thanks for the info! I did remove the hanger bolts and was wondering why I couldn't force the exhaust down. I didn't know the wire holding the vent hoses was preventing the exhaust from being sprung down. That will be a lot easier than sawing off the bolts. Once I get the center stand off, I will do the Queensland Ken Dremel mod so that I don't have to fool with this again! Dang, what a pain in the arse!

Regards to you both!

It's not my mod, but a gent who was on the Aussie Forum a long time ago.

I had all the gear ready to sling the bike from the car port, but a gent on this Forum just had his bike topple over on him.

I bought a motorcycle/ATV lift from Harbor Freight this weekend. They had a Memorial Day sale going and the lift was originally $150 but on sale for $80. With the 20% coupon, I walked out the door with it for $64. Not bad considering I was laying on the floor and was using the center stand and a floor jack. I wasn't going to service the center stand until I finished the pivot points etc. but quickly realized that in order to get the Relay Arm out, I'd have to take out the center stand because of the bolt issue. Wish I'd seen this post earlier...

The issue I have now is that one of the center stand bolts stripped (probably from previous owner or shop). Unfortunately I stripped it more and there's just no room to get any vise grips on it. The 3 other bolts were difficult to get loose and made a snapping noise when they finally moved. I'm going to replace all the bolts just to be safe. Does anyone know if they have to be Yamaha specific bolts or can I pick some up at an auto parts store of for that matter Home Depot/Lowes?

RzrBak said:

Does anyone know if they have to be Yamaha specific bolts or can I pick some up at an auto parts store of for that matter Home Depot/Lowes?

Click to expand...

You will want Class 10.9 Metric bolts. The grade will be marked on the head of the bolt if they are genuine. The Imperial equivalent is Grade 8, marked with six radial lines.

Home Depot or Lowes may have the correct size.

Twigg said:

RzrBak said:

Does anyone know if they have to be Yamaha specific bolts or can I pick some up at an auto parts store of for that matter Home Depot/Lowes?

Click to expand...

You will want Class 10.9 Metric bolts. The grade will be marked on the head of the bolt if they are genuine. The Imperial equivalent is Grade 8, marked with six radial lines.

Home Depot or Lowes may have the correct size.

Click to expand...

Great, thanks for the info.