Torque values for passenger footrest bolts

Can someone tell me the torque values for the passenger footrest bolts? Specifically, I mean the two bolts just above the footrest that bolt into the frame.

Thanks.

On the Left side the upper bolts are 20 lbs and the lower are 47 lbs Right side 20 lbs

I have to say that it's fascinating to see the religiousness with which folks try to adhere to torque specs on fasteners. Thing is, ordinary fasteners could care less how much torque is applied. Enough to keep them from falling out, but not so much you pull the threads out of the material it's going into. In other words, they get tight. Since they are not squishing a gasket or a bearing or containing pressure, the correct torque is: "When they get tight enough, they are tight enough."

It's a plain old fastener, it's not doing anything special. I've always been amazed at the infatuation with torque specs for fasteners that just need to be tight enough not to fall out. You know when it's tight while you're twisting the wrench!

Do you need a torque spec for the screws holding a doorknob onto the door? The case screws on your PC? The hardware on your kitchen cabinets?

There'll be folks arguing with me, but seriously..... if you don't know it's tight while you're using the wrenches, then let someone else do the work.


Not to say I ignore torque values. When I split the case for my gearbox issues last fall, you can be sure i knew which bolt got how much torque and in what sequence as I put the bottom of the case back on. But for a plain fastener that holds a doodad onto another doodad, I couldn't care less what the torque spec is. It gets tight. A bigger bolt gets a bit tighter than a tiny one. End of concern.

Torque wrenches mitigate the havoc wreaked by ham-fisted shop monkeys.

<deleted> Turns out I really don't have anything worthwhile to add.

While I tend to run fast and loose with tightening many ordinary bolts, there is certainly a place for using torque wrenches even on common fasteners. This is especially true if you are not particularly experienced mechanically. An experienced wrench turner may know by feel what 20, 40, or 60 ft-lbs feels like. A less experienced one not so much.

Also, there is a reason that manufacturers all provide those long lists of torque specs in their factory service manuals; it's because that is the optimum tightness for that fastener (with a few exceptions in the case of Yamaha ) Not too loose, and not too tight. I am never opposed to, or offended by anyone using a torque wrench. It just means that they are being meticulous and want to be sure they are doing it up right.

OTOH, if you think you can estimate the torque "close enough", well it's you bike... knock yourself out.

To the OP, I think ahchiu was talking about the driver's foot peg bolts above, which have three different torque specs.

The 4 M8 passenger foot peg (and muffler support) bracket bolts' torque spec is 20 ft-lbs.

wfooshee said:

I have to say that it's fascinating to see the religiousness with which folks try to adhere to torque specs on fasteners. Thing is, ordinary fasteners could care less how much torque is applied. Enough to keep them from falling out, but not so much you pull the threads out of the material it's going into. In other words, they get tight. Since they are not squishing a gasket or a bearing or containing pressure, the correct torque is: "When they get tight enough, they are tight enough."
It's a plain old fastener, it's not doing anything special. I've always been amazed at the infatuation with torque specs for fasteners that just need to be tight enough not to fall out. You know when it's tight while you're twisting the wrench!

Do you need a torque spec for the screws holding a doorknob onto the door? The case screws on your PC? The hardware on your kitchen cabinets?

There'll be folks arguing with me, but seriously..... if you don't know it's tight while you're using the wrenches, then let someone else do the work.

Not to say I ignore torque values. When I split the case for my gearbox issues last fall, you can be sure i knew which bolt got how much torque and in what sequence as I put the bottom of the case back on. But for a plain fastener that holds a doodad onto another doodad, I couldn't care less what the torque spec is. It gets tight. A bigger bolt gets a bit tighter than a tiny one. End of concern.

Click to expand...

Years ago when I was a teenager, I stripped the threads on the oil pan plug of my '69 Ford. I didn't get the oversized plug to rethread squarely, and my car forever dripped oil for the remaining time I owned it.

I paid $15,000 for my new FJR three months ago. The bolts in question thread straight into the frame. Perhaps I don't have the dexterity you apparently have, and I might run the risk of putting too much pressure on a wrench and damaging the threads. Considering that such damage would not be easy to fix, combined with the sizable investment I have in my FJR, further combined with the simple fact that I long ago invested in a good torque wrench, I'm at a loss to understand why anyone suggest throwing caution to the wind and risk such needless damage.

I live in an exacting world. Therefore, I like to be exact.

mguerry said:

...I live in an exacting world. Therefore, I like to be exact.

Click to expand...

Which means your torque wrench is calibrated and 20 ft/lb is within the middle 2/3 of the torque range of your wrench where it is most accurate? And, the threads are dry (no lube, no Locktite, no anti-seize, no liquid)? Both the bolt and the threads are clean? If the bolt/thread isn't clean it will wildly vary the true clamping force. Your torque wrench is a positive clicker that isn't influenced by the way you hold the wrench to the bolt -- the handle end is in the same plane as the bolt head? Being exact and all, you would be better off measuring clamping force and not bolt torque. And this being Friday where the Forum isn't always serious, I'm just busting your chops

If you don't have a 'mechanic's touch' yet for bolts (hex, Allen, Torx) and screws (JIS, Phillips, slotted, plastic) then you need practice. Say, install a set of canyon cage guards, install a Givi rack mount, pull the faring off and install a power distribution block to add a rear brake light strobe, driving lights and power ports for a GPS and radar detector. You could also check the rear drive spline and make sure it has lube, it has been historically dry from the factory. Open the bags and ensure that the tiny torxs screws on the locks were locktited by the dealer and verify they are tight. See, we can help you develop 'the touch' so you only need a torque wrench for critical tasks. This is what the Forum does, we help people

It's not "throwing caution to the wind" when you're turning a wrench, the bolt or nut stops, and you give it a bit of a nudge after it stops. BOOM!, it's tight! Doesn't need to be measured.

Some people see the torque spec as an assurance that the bolt is "tight enough," i.e. won't fall out of its own accord in three weeks. Others see the torque spec as a limit for the installer to adhere to, so they don't pull the threads out of the material.

You know where the perfect balance is between loose enough to fall out vs tight enough to pull metal? About a 20th of a turn after the thing stops turning with the wrench. A little more if you have a washer.

Again, this doesn't apply if the fastener is squishing a gasket or bearing or something. There, you measure the torque to apply the correct clamping force.

But a plain fastener.... clamping force is irrelevant. You're looking for sufficient friction on the threads to hold the fastener. When the thing stops and gets a bit of a nudge further, it has that.

I'm a keyboard commando for eight or more hours a day and my built-in-torque-wrench isn't as calibrated as it should be. I'd rather spend a few extra minutes with a torque wrench then spend an afternoon fitting heli-coils.