Motion Pro Syncpro

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Allen_C

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I have a nearly new Motion Pro Syncpro and am having an issue using it. This tool requires you to calibrate prior to syncing. Ideally, when you calibrate, the blue liquid will be about half way up the tubes. However, mine will only calibrate at about 75% up the tubes. So, when I go to sync, the blue liquid goes all the way up to the top and under the top plastic case. I cannot see where the relative settings are.

Has anyone successfully used this tool or is the vacuum created by this engine to great for this tool? Their website indicates a 400cc engine will calibrate at the lower end of the tubes and a 1,000cc engine will be around the middle.

Any insight?

 
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I picked up additional fluid from MotionPro and was able to overfill the reservoirs. By reducing the "air chamber" volume in the reservoir it had the effect reducing the level the fluid will rise during the TBS. If you can imagine taking this concept to its extreme; no air in the reservoir, the fluid would probably not move at all considering the low vacuum the FJR operates.

But you want some insight? Sell it and get a Morgan Carbtune. I still had problems with air bubbles forming in the tubes and seemed I always had to fuss with the fluid.

 
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I have a nearly new Motion Pro Syncpro and am having an issue using it. This tool requires you to calibrate prior to syncing. Ideally, when you calibrate, the blue liquid will be about half way up the tubes. However, mine will only calibrate at about 75% up the tubes. So, when I go to sync, the blue liquid goes all the way up to the top and under the top plastic case. I cannot see where the relative settings are.
Has anyone successfully used this tool or is the vacuum created by this engine to great for this tool? Their website indicates a 400cc engine will calibrate at the lower end of the tubes and a 1,000cc engine will be around the middle.

Any insight?
Ironically, I just received mine in the mail yesterday and did a sync today.

I am taking a guess here but methinks you didn't insert the little brass restrictors in the tubes?

 
I have a nearly new Motion Pro Syncpro and am having an issue using it. This tool requires you to calibrate prior to syncing. Ideally, when you calibrate, the blue liquid will be about half way up the tubes. However, mine will only calibrate at about 75% up the tubes. So, when I go to sync, the blue liquid goes all the way up to the top and under the top plastic case. I cannot see where the relative settings are.Has anyone successfully used this tool or is the vacuum created by this engine to great for this tool? Their website indicates a 400cc engine will calibrate at the lower end of the tubes and a 1,000cc engine will be around the middle.

Any insight?
Ironically, I just received mine in the mail yesterday and did a sync today.

I am taking a guess here but methinks you didn't insert the little brass restrictors in the tubes?
You are correct! I forgot about those...since I did not see them in the package! However, I remember seeing them in their video. They mentioned they were to even out the readout/fluctuations, not to reduce the overall levels.

Adding fluid makes sense, based on how the tool operates.

 
This is one of the reasons I quit using it after 1 attempt and switched to vacuum gauges. I have 3 extras if you want them.

 
This is one of the reasons I quit using it after 1 attempt and switched to vacuum gauges. I have 3 extras if you want them.
Are these individual dial gauges? How do you use them, just check #1 then set the other the to the same, one at a time?

 
I use 4 gauges, all at the same time, with a restriction in a rubber hose similar to a MotionPro. Read the dial, adjust IAW instructions. Simple, no fluid to get sucked in or evaporate. Below is what I have 3 of and similar to what I use except I use the back connection kind instead of the bottom connection one(s) pictured. As I said- yours if you want them.

DSCN4741_zps1aefhxqp.jpg


 
I use 4 gauges, all at the same time, with a restriction in a rubber hose similar to a MotionPro. Read the dial, adjust IAW instructions. Simple, no fluid to get sucked in or evaporate. Below is what I have 3 of and similar to what I use except I use the back connection kind instead of the bottom connection one(s) pictured. As I said- yours if you want them.[img=[URL="https://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y107/rbentnail/Misc/DSCN4741_zps1aefhxqp.jpg%5D"]https://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y107/rbentnail/Misc/DSCN4741_zps1aefhxqp.jpg][/URL]
PMd you

 
Currently a 4 pot sync with room to expand to 6 pot if I ever need to.

- 1-1/4" x 2" Aluminum bar stock, drilled and tapped

- Liquid filled gauges

- Barbed nipples each have a section of a "red spray can straw" RTVed inside as a restricter.

- Calibration is checked before use same as with a mercury gauge, off 1 TB/Carb split to each gauge to make sure they each read the same value.

- No gauge bounce/flutter like the classic carb sync. No worries about loosing mercury or fluid when lending it out.

61Uy3b0l.jpg


A 2 pot one I use when helping out people at their place VS my garage.

iMrxoZjl.jpg


 
The Motion Pro tool works just fine. Please don't obsess over getting them all "identical", it is not necessary. Just make sure they are all close, and that there isn't one that is substantially different to the others.

Having said all that, the Morgan Carbtune is a much better tool, and right now the exchange rate is making it quite cheap. When I bought my Motion Pro it was only $40 ... the current price makes the Carbtune a better buy by far.

 
The Motion Pro tool works just fine. Please don't obsess over getting them all "identical", it is not necessary. Just make sure they are all close, and that there isn't one that is substantially different to the others.
Having said all that, the Morgan Carbtune is a much better tool, and right now the exchange rate is making it quite cheap. When I bought my Motion Pro it was only $40 ... the current price makes the Carbtune a better buy by far.
The first time I used the Motion Pro, I was able to calibrate and see all four levels around the mid point in the tubes. This second time the blue liquid went all the way up to the top and was not visible under the plastic casing.

 
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