Inexpensive accurate voltage meter set up

I had been researching the best way to do a volt meter for my '08. After poking around quite a bit, I realized that there are cheap volt meters but they are not waterproof and there are voltmeters that someone waterproofed and now sells for $50 .. Either way, most needed to be mounted in a sloppy way or cut into the plastic. I didn't like either option ...

After thinking a bit, I realized that I don't care as much about voltage when I am riding around locally nearly as much as I do when out on a long ride away from home or in remote areas.

And when on a "ride" I always have my tank bag so I conjured up the following that works very well for me and was only about $10 ... Plus a few bucks for added cords I used to make the whole thing multi purpose.

Started with one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1CW7FY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

Got a piece of acrylic plastic and cut it to fit the top sheath of my tank bag. Cut a hole for the volt meter and stuck some extra items to the back ...

1) A splitter to allow for more connections as I need it.

2) A battery tender USB converter to charge my phone in the tank bag

3) A spare coax connector for my heated vest as a backup if the one under my seat fails.

4) A fuse for obvious reasons.



How it looks from the top ready to be added to the tank bag



Installed in the tank bag with the USB phone power hanging.



Finished and in the bag ready for use.



SAE connector to connector to connect to bike power any way necessary. I have a powerlet that I use to charge the bike with a battery tender that doubles as a power outlet when the bike is in use. I have a short powerlet to SAE cable that I use to connect to this.



On the bike.



I leave the powerlet connector always on the bike and I disconnect the SAE connector when I bring the tank bag in with me at night ... This meter amazed me in that it is as accurate as my $250 fluke multimeter (within a few tenths of a volt) for under $10 ...

It is waterproof as it is under the tank bag plastic and very visible. The meter also has a violet colored backlight so it is easily visible at night. The backlight can be turned off as well ...

I can still fit a small map under there as well if I need to ...

Now this took some time so if time is money, this is not cheaper than a datel or something ... But, it is cheap, accurate, non permanent and easy to see. And it gave me something to do on a Saturday afternoon ...

Very nice, MrZappo!

Interesting fuse location, though. You do have an additional fuze on your pigtail close to the battery, yes?

Yes. That fuse you see in the picture is small and just to protect the meter. Maybe not really needed.

The powerlet outlet on the bike is fused as well (at a higher ampreage).

So the entire thing is fused as appropriate.

Nice setup, any reason not to move the meter further up or down to give more room for stuff in there like a map, directions, picture of a hottie?

MrZappo said:

Yes. That fuse you see in the picture is small and just to protect the meter.

Click to expand...

I get your logic and it's totally correct. Although I did have to chuckle at spending $2 to protect $8.

Where did you find the SAE pigtail?

wingshot said:

Where did you find the SAE pigtail?

Click to expand...

This what you are looking at?https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002S1MEAS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=D7B1WOCVIYKY&coliid=I3UML1YAJ7WH2F&psc=1

I just plug one of these into my battery tender connection, $16 at my local Honda dealer.

NightShine said:

Very nice, MrZappo!
Interesting fuse location, though. You do have an additional fuze on your pigtail close to the battery, yes?

Click to expand...

dozzent matter where you put the fuse....the $500 electronic gizmo will always blow to protect the fuse...

lnewlf said:

...dozzent matter where you put the fuse....the $500 electronic gizmo will always blow to protect the fuse...

Click to expand...

True.

The fuse is there to protect the wire feeding the gizmo from carrying too much current. Get a short circuit to chassis before the fuse, you risk setting your bike on fire.

Put the fuse as close as you sensibly can to the battery.

gixxerjasen said:

Nice setup, any reason not to move the meter further up or down to give more room for stuff in there like a map, directions, picture of a hottie?

MrZappo said:

Yes. That fuse you see in the picture is small and just to protect the meter.

Click to expand...

I get your logic and it's totally correct. Although I did have to chuckle at spending $2 to protect $8.

Click to expand...

Well, yes there is that ... Actually I had it laying around from some other project some other time ... So free ..

And of course if something is worth doing simple, it is worth making it overly complex (Us engineers you know) ... Plus I probably had a beer left ... Have to expand the project time ...

I found all the SAE stuff on amazon ...

And, there is no reason you cant put it anywhere on the panel ... I put it up a little higher to keep it away from the opening in case of any water .. I didn't go up high as I figured I might put a map up high ... But your point is well taken as it might be better to keep it up high so other things could be easily inserted and removed without having to push them up and over it ...

Another Saturday project I guess ...

I apologize for sending you back out to the garage with the power tools and all the beer to fiddle on version 2.0.

FYI, that plexi looks like a prime location for a backlight for printed paper maps.

This is the classic invention of a problem so you can come up with a solution. I was seriously addicted to that terrible condition when I had sailboats. Now, not so much.

FJRRYDER said:

This is the classic invention of a problem so you can come up with a solution. I was seriously addicted to that terrible condition when I had sailboats. Now, not so much.

Click to expand...

What problem was "invented" ? The obscure notion that one might want to know the voltage output on the bike on a long trip while running a lot of accessories ? Maybe the need to make sure that with heated gear and other accessories one does not drift into the zone where the battery is discharging thus rendering the bike dead and the rider scurrying off through the Canadian wilderness to be dinner for a happy grizzly ?

Please clarify ;-)