Bella Coola & Hyder

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

escapefjrtist

Searching for Dry Roads
Joined
Jun 19, 2005
Messages
10,907
Reaction score
2,212
Location
Snohomish, WA
After reading ride report after ride report and watching umpteen hundred you-tube videos, the thought of heading north into Canada and Alaska has forever been on my gotta-do-it-before-I-die bucket list. Panman and I drew first blood in 2011 and ended up with a clockwise loop to Hyder, Watson Lake and back to mile “0” of the Alaska highway. Epic trip and one we still talk (and laugh) about today!

Since that first trip to the way-north in 2011, I knew a return visit was inevitable. Living less than two hours from the border makes the journey into BC and Hyder a snap with no need to ride several days just to begin the adventure! All the more reason(?) to do it again.
smile.png


Having the right tool makes for a good trip too. With the 2011 adventure, my ‘06 FJR worked “OK” but after nearly dumping the thing TWICE in construction zones (and renewing rusty dirt-bike skills) something else was called for. I’ve wanted (needed) a GSA forever but the initial buy in and ongoing maintenance costs have always given me pause.

Enter the Super Tenere. From the initial PDP order process I knew I wanted one...and I'm a sucker for the PDP waiting for not one, but two FJRs. The process took some time, but my 2012 is one awesome machine and this trip confirmed it! Adding a Penske cured the too-soft shock with the added bonus of extra ride height to make it handle. Lightly farkled and adding some TKC70’s this machine did everything I wanted and more. After the initial question of (Is the bike going to work?) I approached the dirt sections with renewed confidence and put those rusty dirt bike skilz to good use. Getting a feel for things, I made good time while letting TC1 keep the show under control!

This journey includes a side trip to Bella Coola BC because, well, I wanted to say I’ve BTDT and to check out the reason I got a Tenere in the first place. Adding the Salmon Glacier into the mix and all told we ended up with almost 130 miles of dirt.

My partner in this crime was MCRider007. An experienced traveler up north (can you say Inuvik?) our similar riding styles makes traveling a pleasure and it takes more than a few days before we want to kill each other! Having a Tenere worked pretty well too!!

What started it all in 2011...Panman and me hamming for the camera in Dawson Creek.

AKHwy.jpg


Like lambs to the slaughter...fueled and ready to go!

DSCN2913_zps38ljocma.jpg


Leaving Hope and following Canada 1 up the Fraser River Canyon finds a few tunnels.

DSCN2916_zpsu9bpcpti.jpg


Who’s that following…

DSCN2921_zpsp2fvhxeb.jpg


Lots of big water.

DSCN2923_zps0cpmokn7.jpg


We were greeted by fire at the north end of the canyon. Going up we passed a couple large staging areas for the crews and air support, makes you thankful for these dedicated fire fighters. Although we heard helicopters flying and echoing through the canyon we didn't see any flames along the highway.

DSCN2937_zps7vut4ye8.jpg


British Columbia Circle Routes. Interesting reading and a lot of great riding possibilities. I imagine one could ride yourself silly and spend the entire summer season just checking these out.

DSCN2938_zpsbokpagqa.jpg


Tenere!

DSCN2941_zpskt1h9pdz.jpg


North end and coming out of the canyon. Cache Creek is just up the road.

DSCN2945_zpszcr2fyb8.jpg


DSCN2947_zps9jsknsqw.jpg


DSCN2949_zpsshixvycb.jpg


North of Cache Creek the greenery begins to surface again.

DSCN2951_zps4pasztur.jpg


…and more big country!

DSCN2957_zpsdeb0chx9.jpg


DSCN2959_zpsiuu5woed.jpg


DSCN2964_zpsxgqqx8zz.jpg


After 400 miles and a border crossing we called it a night. View from our room at Williams Lake.

DSCN2968_zpspcspq52v.jpg


Stand by...more to come.
rolleyes.gif


 
I've made the ride between the states and Alaska a dozen times; used to live in Fairbanks. I've ridden a R1200RT and R1200R on the previous rides. I now have a Super Tenere and plan on riding up north again next spring. I think the S10 is just about perfect for the ride to AK and on the roads of AK and the Yukon. Thanks for the ride report.

 
OK Escape, I'm not sure I like you. Just when I am super happy with my Vee Strom, now you have me thinking Tenere, again!
tonguesmiley.gif


Awesome start dude!

 
Heading west to Bella Coola with a glimpse of the coming road. Starting out narrow, we wind our way over the river, up a canyon and finally break out on the top.

DSCN2969_zpsvdo0ecnu.jpg


DSCN2971_zpsvjtyydlx.jpg


DSCN2973_zps3odggahe.jpg


The further we got from Williams Lake, houses were fewer and far between and civilization was thinning quick. Adding to that, we were traveling on Sunday, so traffic was almost nonexistent in both directions. Many times I wondered how long it would take for someone to come along if we had sliced a tire or had a mechanical issue. Crazy thoughts as we make our way west!
weirdsmiley.gif


Big ranching / equestrian operation.

DSCN2975_zpsg6pz11po.jpg


Water, and lots of it up here.

DSCN2976_zpsyevad3hr.jpg


Where we’re going, coast range in the far distance.

DSCN2979_zpsmnwgnpyq.jpg


Notice how the road is narrowing?

DSCN2980_zps3lz3l5r5.jpg


Hanceville Canyon. Imagine being a cattle rancher and pushing your herd through here in the winter, tough folks for sure.

DSCN2981_zpserhev5qe.jpg


DSCN2984_zpsxqujei3a.jpg


The vast emptiness and a ribbon of asphalt.

DSCN2986_zpsqporwkvq.jpg


As we were going through farmland my legs and boots were being constantly bombarded by what felt like small rocks. It turned out that grasshoppers were on the road and were jumping as we passed through them. Made for a yucky mess of boots and the ‘stich.

Hitchhiker who didn’t make it.

DSCN2987_zpswlo5pdev.jpg


Coast range, we're getting closer!

DSCN2989_zpserehcxon.jpg


Wassup with the centerline, lost that a few miles back...road’s getting skinnier!

DSCN2992_zpsdbqonb2p.jpg


DSCN2996_zpskz8v7qwt.jpg


DSCN3001_zps7ypfklqg.jpg


Stay tuned, more to come...

 
Come on George.....what is taking so long? I want to see what I missed cuz you made me ride in the back so I wouldn't get in the way of your Kodak moments.

 
Come on George.....what is taking so long? I want to see what I missed cuz you made me ride in the back so I wouldn't get in the way of your Kodak moments.
Oh come Steve, you done it all and as old as you are you probably slept thru half the ride anyhow!
smile.png


Now hurry up George, it's my bed time.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
As we continued westward, the towns kept getting smaller. Thankfully we fueled at about the mid-way point (remember this is Sunday) but it turned out that fuel was plentiful along the entire route. We also fueled at Anahim Lake, just for safety. Once we reached Bella Coola that wasn't the case (remember Sunday) as the only station was closed until Monday morning. Something to remember for future trips.

Peek-a-boo mountain and river view.

DSCN3003_zpsltp6llgp.jpg


First look at approximately 45 miles of dirt. Although the road was a little rough in spots, an FJR would have made it easily – today. The Tenere and new TKC70s made this dry ride a very easy one. Add moisture and the road would have been a sloppy slick ride!

DSCN3006_zpsnilama36.jpg


Tweedsmuir Provincial Park.

DSCN3007_zpsavgjxxey.jpg


DSCN3009_zpsbrdcz721.jpg


The direction we’re heading and the (now) ribbon of dirt skirting the hillsides. I gotta say, the road was in great condition and other than a few loose gravel corners, was as good as riding on asphalt. This look-out point is well within the park and approximately half way through the dirt portion.

DSCN3035_zpspvkfym4m.jpg


DSCN3036_zpsni75nbpf.jpg


Heckman Pass & “The Hill"

DSCN3016_zpsun2y1mca.jpg


Pictures don't do "The Hill" justice. No guard rails and switchbacks that double back on themselves all while dealing with up to 18% grades. The return trip coming up was much more fun and faster than going in! They say that trucks and tour buses traverse this road in the winter...can't imagine meeting one of those at a switchback.

DSCN3017_zpsx7dssacl.jpg


DSCN3018_zpsxsu4yhii.jpg


DSCN3019_zpsc5zwcanw.jpg


DSCN3020_zpscjpbthfs.jpg


Kettle Pond Trailhead. That's a big rock left over from retreating glaciers!

DSCN3021_zpsy2mwe4fs.jpg


DSCN3026_zpsp6dq7atn.jpg


...next up Bella Coola, stay tuned!

 
OK Escape, I'm not sure I like you. Just when I am super happy with my Vee Strom, now you have me thinking Tenere, again!
tonguesmiley.gif

Awesome start dude!
Thanks 'Bandit. Do yourself a favor and ride a Tenere...it won't hurt much!

Never been to Alaska. Thanks for the ride-along George.
Much more to come Gary. Putting this together has me ready to go back...now.

--G

 
Top