Pair Removal Cap/Plug suggestions and Sparkplug removal questions

I am heading out in 24 hours for a 9 day jaunt. Decided to install my wynpro block off plates, and new spark plugs.

Two problems -

1. Immediately stripped the head on the first screw of #1 when trying to remove the existing port for the pair removal. I have everything all of the extraneous hoses removed except those ports. So- I decided the fast fix is to cap those buggers instead of messing with the screw.

I have seen one alternative of taking the short hoses and reinstalling on those ports then plugging them. Anyone have any idea of a great part # that my local places might have to do this (or the best solution for simply capping the those ports directy?

2 - My plugs haven't been changed in 32k miles. (Pictures to come, I know, I know). How hard should it be to remove the rubber boots. I've already torn one..

HelzBelz said:

I am heading out in 24 hours for a 9 day jaunt. Decided to install my wynpro block off plates, and new spark plugs.
Two problems -

1. Immediately stripped the head on the first screw of #1 when trying to remove the existing port for the pair removal. I have everything all of the extraneous hoses removed except those ports. So- I decided the fast fix is to cap those buggers instead of messing with the screw.

I have seen one alternative of taking the short hoses and reinstalling on those ports then plugging them. Anyone have any idea of a great part # that my local places might have to do this (or the best solution for simply capping the those ports directy?

2 - My plugs haven't been changed in 32k miles. (Pictures to come, I know, I know). How hard should it be to remove the rubber boots. I've already torn one..

Click to expand...

Can't offer any advice on plugs for your ports but....

When you try to pull the boots on your plugs start by rotating the boots (clockwise/anti-clockwise) just a bit to start with and then increasing.

Then try lifting while continuing to rotate. Best to try lifting by getting something flat under the lip and prying up.

Good luck.

Blanking off caps from most Auto supplies.

One of Rare Spares Water Cap - 5/8" Pair, WC58B
Four, aka 2 packets of Rare Spares Water Cap - 1/2" Pair, WC12B

For future reference - before you replace the boots on the plugs, smear a thin layer of silicone dielectric grease on the rubber cover where it contacts the engine. Also on the rubber where it goes over the plug. MUCH easier to remove for the next change.

Never, ever attempt to do any maintenance on any vehicle within 2 weeks of a planned trip. Either you won't have time to get the parts to fix it with or you'll just muck it up more from being in the anxious mode. Murphy is watching you....

You'd think I'd know that. But you know how it goes.. I got a scratch that needs an itchin..and the only cure is more trips to the store.

I really want to see my sparkplugs after 32k miles, don't you all?

HelzBelz said:

...I really want to see my sparkplugs after 32k miles, don't you all?

Click to expand...

I'd expect the plugs to essentially look like new without a magnifying glass or microscope to see the electrode erosion. I would expect your gas mileage and engine smoothness to go up by an entire 0% Hopefully there won't be carbon built up on the end of the threads causing an issue unscrewing the plug (highly unlikely on a FJR engine).

Just to add a note: Yesterday I noticed a small spot of oil under my front wheel! Well I just helped a friend use a home made Seal Mate cut from a water bottle to fix his weeping fork seal! But I'm lucky that another friend had an Original Seal Mate that he had laying around and he kindly loaned it to me. What the @#$@$@, upon trying to insert to clean the crud, sploosh! Fork oil came gushing out? I had the forks refurbished with Race Tech valves and springs, 3 years ago? Looks like I left it at least one year too long? No riding for the next little while!

jmgrif said:

...What the @#$@$@, upon trying to insert to clean the crud, sploosh! Fork oil came gushing out?...

Click to expand...

I wonder if that would have happened if the front wheel was in the air and the forks fully extended... It's not normal for this to happen even with the forks slightly compressed.

The bike was on the centre stand but the tire was resting on the ground? Same procedure we used on my friends bike with the exception of the "Real" Seal Mate? I was hoping to make it to the end of riding around here before refreshing both front and rear suspensions! Now I only have half the job to do come late fall.

I hope you have a set of synchronizers for that bike. After reading several articles about pair removal several have said it does alter the sync and should be done after the removal of said system.

I hadn't heard that. Where were those articles? I likes ta read.

Give those rubber caps a squirt of red high-temp silicone before you slip them on, enough to seal the PAIR adapter. There have been a few reports on the forum of cracking rubber caps.

I stripped the PAIR system and used the WynPro block-off plates, no worries then. Perhaps you can install them at your next 8K plug change!

--G

read at the end of webby's starting post at end of all the pretty pics his comments about the sync after the removal.

linky

well. my 9 day jaunt turned into a 5 day trip due to a blown left fork seal that no amount of digging with homemade fork seal cleaners would fix. I did ride her approx 1000 miles on 1.2 forks...

But on the good side of things:

- the 32000 mile old spark plugs are now 34000 miles old -

- My make shift pair removal fix (plugged those 4 hoses with a large bolt sealed with RTV on the threads seemed to work well. I averaged 49.8 MPG during my whole trip (on the whole, for 1830 miles!!!)

- I tested the limits of my fuel light. 61 miles on "reserve", before my bike would stutter on launch (probably at shifting points, If I think about this logically) from a light (right in front of a gas station, luckily) And I squeezed in 6.1 gallons. So at .5 you are pretty much dying, inertia will stop feeding the engine..

I am not sure what to blame that mileage on, I've never gotten more than 45 or 6 for short "un-spirited" sections. I saw 49.9 and 50 for large portions of this trip. The only changes I made was back to my stock screen (from my V-stream), Pair removal, and Ethanol fuel exclusively unfortunately.

HelzBelz said:

...a 5 day trip due to a blown left fork seal that no amount of digging with homemade fork seal cleaners would fix...61 miles on "reserve", before my bike would stutter on launch...from a light...And I squeezed in 6.1 gallons. So at .5 you are pretty much dying...

Click to expand...

The Gen 3 only has damping in one fork.

You should have been able to drain your tank down to .1 gallons with no performance difference. No idea why your bike would not run normally with just 6.1 gallons consumed.

Hope you enjoyed your ride, even if it was a bit shorter than planned.