Ok from the looks of things this should be an easy fix. I recent realized my brake lights aren't getting brighter when I hit the front or rear brakes. I'm looking for the fuse for the brakes on my 2004 FJR. I recently added a trailer hitch to the bike and didn't have an issues with the brake lights after installation. I hear the click like electrical switch is at the back of the bike when brake pressure is applied. Both lights are not blown.
Brake Light issue
- Thread starter dayven99
- Start date
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mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
On a 2004, there is no brake relay, so your "click" is unexpected unless there's a relay to switch the brake circuit to your trailer.
The bike's brake-light fuse also feeds the horns, so one obvious test is to check the horns work, if they do then it isn't the fuse.
If the fuse is ok, I'd check the wiring where it's tapped off for the trailer relay/connector as the most likely problem.
One other thought, if the ground connection to the rear light cluster is faulty, the rear lights will work (getting their ground return through the brake filaments), but would go dim or out when the brakes are applied.
The bike's brake-light fuse also feeds the horns, so one obvious test is to check the horns work, if they do then it isn't the fuse.
If the fuse is ok, I'd check the wiring where it's tapped off for the trailer relay/connector as the most likely problem.
One other thought, if the ground connection to the rear light cluster is faulty, the rear lights will work (getting their ground return through the brake filaments), but would go dim or out when the brakes are applied.
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RossKean
Well-known member
Another possibility...
Any chance that the rear brake pivot is gummed up and the brake lights are ALREADY on? Could be adjustment for the front lever or the rear as well.
Any chance that the rear brake pivot is gummed up and the brake lights are ALREADY on? Could be adjustment for the front lever or the rear as well.
Could it be a load issue? Not enough to blow a fuse but enough that the combined lights are drawing enough that the OEM lights don't react as they do normally?
Another thing to test before leaving is, with the trailer attached, hit the bakes and the horn together. Have a spare fuse handy. If it passes the dumb-arse-cut-you-off test, then trying laying on the horn for 10 seconds (with the brakes still on)and see if that's enough to blow the fuse. I had that happen. A toot during testing was fine but a serious dumbass test must have been too much.
Do NOT step the fuse up to a higher amp rating for obvious reasons if it does blow.
Another thing to test before leaving is, with the trailer attached, hit the bakes and the horn together. Have a spare fuse handy. If it passes the dumb-arse-cut-you-off test, then trying laying on the horn for 10 seconds (with the brakes still on)and see if that's enough to blow the fuse. I had that happen. A toot during testing was fine but a serious dumbass test must have been too much.
Do NOT step the fuse up to a higher amp rating for obvious reasons if it does blow.
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Niehart
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