HELP! 2007 will not start

I have had this bike(not mine) in the garage for several months. The owner had the plastics repainted(Garauld did an awesome job!). I put the tank back on yesterday before the rest of the panels to get it running and do the engine oil and a TBS. I did a valve clearance check and had to remove the exhaust valve cam to replace the #4 cylinder shim. I wire tied the cam chain to the sprocket on both cams to ensure it went back in the same spot. Turned the ignition on and tried firing. It sounded like it popped ever so slightly(like a cylinder firing) then nothing. It shows a code 14 and the engine light stays on. I know the manual says that it should be able to start even with a faulty input pressure sensor. I have gone over every connector on the bike. The fuel rail is pressurized and I am smelling fuel when turning it over. It is not doing the fast starter thing(I am familiar with it as my '07 has done it), but i still tried WOT and it made no difference.

Any suggestions?

BTW I tried posting this last night and the power went out!

I know you say you wire tied the cam chain but, after reassembly, did you physically check the timing marks on the cam and crankshaft sprockets? Regardless of tie/wire securing, the chain can still jump. DAMHIK.

Error Code 14 is the Intake Air Pressure Sensor. You can test it / view the sensor output with Diag d:03

The IAP sensor is mounted on the fuel rail. It has a vacuum hose connection to sample the pressure (vacuum) and an electrical connector. If you hook up a hose to the sensor you could watch the diag while you pull a vacuum on the tube.

All that said, this error code should not prevent the bike from starting.

rbentnail said:

I know you say you wire tied the cam chain but, after reassembly, did you physically check the timing marks on the cam and crankshaft sprockets? Regardless of tie/wire securing, the chain can still jump. DAMHIK.

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OK. I won't ask. I didn't check and was thinking about that. Would you get an error code if it was out of position, though?

Carefully examine around the timing cover to ensure wires aren't pinched in the cover.

The FJR should never be so rich you can smell gas, flooding is still an option. Use diAG to fire the coils just to be sure that they do, you did have to mess with the plugs and plug caps. Scroll through the diAG checks just to be sure it all looks good.

With the tank lifted inspect for disconnected connectors.

Passing all the previous suggestions in previous posts, consider that you may have to pull the timing cover and valve cover to check mechanical timing.

Intech said:

OK. I won't ask. I didn't check and was thinking about that. Would you get an error code if it was out of position, though?

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No. In fact the crank sprocket can skip several teeth leading to the crushing of 12 of 16 valves, split the cylinder head, snap 2 valve stems in half and you still don't get an error code. DAMHIK.

Is the cylinder identification cylinder plugged in? Top of valve cover, right side. It would have been unplugged for the valve check, but you're not getting a code..... I'd be curious on the verification rbentnail mentions too.

Edit - Just saw your reply. It's a PITA to go back remove valve cover again, but.... make a brief assumption it's OK (sounds so far like compression OK, no bent valves).... if everything's plugged in, MAP sensor didn't come apart, crankshaft pickup wire (right side cover) is not accidentally pinched, etc. and it still won't go, try again the WOT trick. IF still no go, pull the right side cover and the valve cover just to be sure. Check also trigger wheel on crank is not loose, but I'd seriously doubt you'd have turned that counterclockwise.....

PS - Never done it, but might be possible to lift right end of valve cover without taking it off, can gunsight timing marks with a good flashlight.

RaYzerman19 said:

Is the cylinder identification cylinder plugged in? Top of valve cover, right side. It would have been unplugged for the valve check, but you're not getting a code..... I'd be curious on the verification rbentnail mentions too.

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Well it wasn't when I first tried, but then thought of it and plugged it in. Guess I am going back into the engine. Damn! All it really will cost me is a coolant charge and time, though.

Possibly the ignition switch? I understand it's possible for one its connections to be made while the other is not. This can give rise to the engine cranking but not firing. Don't know if it might induce an error code.

This would be something of a coincidence, but coincidences can happen (particularly if the loom has been disturbed).

Might still be flooded...... valve cover last resort.... pull the plugs and see if wet, dry them with heat....... WOT again.

mcatrophy said:

Possibly the ignition switch? I understand it's possible for one its connections to be made while the other is not. This can give rise to the engine cranking but not firing. Don't know if it might induce an error code.
This would be something of a coincidence, but coincidences can happen (particularly if the loom has been disturbed).

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Well everything in the front end was disturbed to some degree taking all the plastics off. I went through all the connectors. The only oterh thing would be a random broken wire. Still only coding 14 which should not keep it from firing.

RaYzerman19 said:

Might still be flooded...... valve cover last resort.... pull the plugs and see if wet, dry them with heat....... WOT again.

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thanks Ray. I will try that. It is on hold for now. Football time. Can't wait to get it all together though. The new color is striking!

I think you're flooded Bob. Seriously, before you take anything apart, give it some serious tries...Like minutes; even if you have to connect it to a battery.

The guy in post #5 also felt that there was still a good chance that's it's flooded.

Right, but it's BOB. You gotta give him directions and draw him a Crayon picture.

I don't know if this helps, but does disconnecting the battery then reset the ECU so that it doesn't think it's flooded? But I agree before going to all that work, try to get it going first. I am pretty sure BOB wouldn't have got the valve timing off..... and even if it's off one tooth, it still should run.

Fat crayons.

Thanks Ray! As for AJ and Mike... Thanks for all your constructive help!

BTW compression is still good as I can barely turn the rear wheel in 5th gear.

RaYzerman19 said:

I don't know if this helps, but does disconnecting the battery then reset the ECU so that it doesn't think it's flooded?

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The bike can't think it's flooded. If it is, it just is. There's no measurement for it.

Really flooded can take several minutes of WOT cranking, not necessarily just a few seconds.

Only crank a few seconds at a time, though, and let the starter sit and cool before trying again.

Hey, Roberto...Did you get it started??