another stripped oil pan bolt

Here's to wishing I had read a few more posts before tightening my oil pan plug. First oil change, never worked on a motorcycle before... I figured if I can completely remove the front end of a Tacoma and strip the motor back to the front crank seal and get it back together using only a Haynes manual, I could handle working on my shiney new 07 FJR... Guess I'll be looking for a heli-coil in the morning.

The fjrtech article on hassle-free oil change might need a note about this hazard

#$#@$@#

jeremybhm said:

Here's to wishing I had read a few more posts before tightening my oil pan plug. First oil change, never worked on a motorcycle before... I figured if I can completely remove the front end of a Tacoma and strip the motor back to the front crank seal and get it back together using only a Haynes manual, I could handle working on my shiney new 07 FJR... Guess I'll be looking for a heli-coil in the morning.
The fjrtech article on hassle-free oil change might need a note about this hazard

#$#@$@#

Click to expand...

Cmon man don't blame the messenger. Only a hazard to probably less than you can count on both hands over the last 5 years on the site. Sh## happens, sorry about the trouble.

Pretty sure that the torque specified is a dry torque, in fact it is a dry torque unless it says otherwise. A bolt that has been lubricated from oil, anti-sieze, etc. should be torqued to 50% -75% of the dry torque figure. The exact percentage depends on the ahh, err, lubricity of the compound. For example loc-tite brands specify a torque coefficient for their anti-seize products.

[this is not directed at anyone in particular but dudes in general]

Back away from the torque wrench! :angry2:

Does anyone use a torque wrench to tighten the drain plug on their car? No!

Just grab a 17 millimeter box end wrench and tighten it down by hand. It won't come loose.

C'mon, guys, we're dudes here. Surely we can handle a common Sears and Roebuck combination wrench every bit as well as women can handle a waffle iron. [i defer to the women who do their own wrenching; more power to you]

It's overkill and it's unnecessary. And it occasionally causes problems like ripped threads.

I am properly chastised...

Napa guy told me a heli-coil would back into the oil pan without something behind it, so he gave me an oversized self-tapping bolt that seems to be hold fine. I dipped it in moly and screwed it in, backed it out, then cleaned it, ran some oil through it to clean out any shavings, and then filled it up with oil.

Luckily I made it through the rest of the 600 mile service without further damage. Now I'm just waiting on my carb tuner so I can do the TBS.

Never ever used torque wrench for an oil change. never had an issue. Friend of mine who has hands coming out of his ass(that is what he says and I agree ) tried to change oil on his track bike last year and striped a bolt just like you did. He was going to have someone do the coil. After searching around I found that we can buy a brand new oil pan for 70 shipped. 30 minutes later he had a brand new oil pan.

Just checked on Ron Ayers https://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?se...5JW-13417-00-00 it does not show the latest model but they can get it and if price on 04 any indication you can get a new pan for roughly 120 shipped. Don't know about you buy I would rather get a brand new at that price.

Good luck.

Torque wrench bad for oil change. It is a warning in my New Owner FAQs.

Don't use torque on the filter either, otherwise you will be jamming a screwdriver through the side of it.

FWIW --

Looks like I'm the odd-ball on this one...

I use a torque wrench for the filter cartridge and the drain bolt (and any other fasteners).

I use the torque specified in the manual.

I have never had a problem.

(I also check the calibration of my torque wrenches.)

FJRottie said:

Torque wrench bad for oil change. It is a warning in my New Owner FAQs.Don't use torque on the filter either, otherwise you will be jamming a screwdriver through the side of it.

Click to expand...

This is why I like the K&N oil filters. That 17mm nut on the end of the filter cures all this. And I've used a torque wrench on all my oil changes with no problems. But then I'm extra careful!

Tom

Yikes :bigeyedsmiley: Tourqe wrench on the filter scares me 'cause you know most guys don't calibrate those things. Seal contact to hand tight then 1/4 turn. seems like it's worked that way forever

:jester:

jeremybhm said:

I am properly chastised...
Napa guy told me a heli-coil would back into the oil pan without something behind it, so he gave me an oversized self-tapping bolt that seems to be hold fine. I dipped it in moly and screwed it in, backed it out, then cleaned it, ran some oil through it to clean out any shavings, and then filled it up with oil.

Luckily I made it through the rest of the 600 mile service without further damage. Now I'm just waiting on my carb tuner so I can do the TBS.

Click to expand...

Not necessarily your fault, though, new guy.

As many have reported, these bikes came delivered from the factory with very tight drain plugs. I speculated in a different thread that maybe some ham-fisted assembly line guy cranked the plugs down so tight than perhaps the soft aluminum threads got distressed and fatigued at that time, and they were thus doomed to fail.

Either way, I'd go along with the new pan idea. Peace of mind in the short and long run.

Just the opposite for me. I used a torque wrench on the first couple of oil changes but found that I was still leaking oil so now I use my "torque arm" and make it a little tighter than spec. Before anyone asks, I do use a new crush washer with every oil change.

For those who like to use a torque wrench on their oil drain plug, try 24 ft lbs. I have found that number to properly crush the washer and the bolt is plenty tight.

this is why I used a 3/8 inch drive socket set for most work - so I won't overtighten.

If you have the skills to tear a Tacoma down to nothing why are you using a torque wrench on an oil plug?

cause i'm a retard evidently :huh:

jeremybhm said:

cause i'm a retard evidently :huh:

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Not retarded, just unaware that Yamaha seems to require gorilla torque specs for all their fasteners. Just tighten by hand until you feel the crush washer flatten and then stop. I'll bet that's way below 31ft/lbs.

cougar8000 said:

Never ever used torque wrench for an oil change. never had an issue. Friend of mine who has hands coming out of his ass(that is what he says and I agree ) tried to change oil on his track bike last year and striped a bolt just like you did. He was going to have someone do the coil. After searching around I found that we can buy a brand new oil pan for 70 shipped. 30 minutes later he had a brand new oil pan.
Just checked on Ron Ayers https://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?se...5JW-13417-00-00 it does not show the latest model but they can get it and if price on 04 any indication you can get a new pan for roughly 120 shipped. Don't know about you buy I would rather get a brand new at that price.

Good luck.

Click to expand...

Now that IS fast shipping. Find some copper washers boyz, be the beez kneez for trouble (and leak) free ridin'.

The first time I changed out the oil in my 06 - the drain plug was in there so tight I think they welded it in at the factory.

No threads damaged for me (thankfully) but someone should have a word with Popeye in the Yammie Factory.

Bull said:

The first time I changed out the oil in my 06 - the drain plug was in there so tight I think they welded it in at the factory.
No threads damaged for me (thankfully) but someone should have a word with Popeye in the Yammie Factory.

Click to expand...

Agreed! I had to use a 1/2" breaker bar and almost felt as if I was going to pull the bike off the center stand. To the OP, I'm glad you got that squared away.