Lever Install Problem

Pulled the clutch lever and associated parts for cleaning and lubing. I have everything lined up correctly, pin where it's supposed to be, going into the hole in the bushing, etc. but no matter how hard I push or angle, the lever will not quite go I. Far enough to line up with the mount. Under no circumstance will it line up close enough to put the main pin/screw back in. I'm ready to throw the offending parts in the trash. Tips?

Did you move the adjustment wheel? Try backing that down a bit. I recall that it always looks like it won't go but with a little love and determination it really will.

If I recall, you may have to actually compress the cylinder pin slightly. Almost like there is always a bit of hydraulic "preload" on the clutch.

I think the problem is that I'm stupid. I will apply more light, your suggestion, and perhaps a modicum of patience. Thank you.

You cannot be any dumber than I am, and I was able to do it. That rules out the "stupid" part. I remember that every time I do this job, it looks like it won't go back. I never remember exactly what I do to make it work, but it always does. I really think a bit of compression on the hydraulic cylinder is what does it.

I know you checked, but the last time this happened to me (not on an FJR) the little push rod wasn't seating fully in the hole in the bushing. It felt like it was and looked like it was, but it wasn't.

Rod was seated, but only because I read of having to check that. In my zeal to defunk and prepare everything for a proper lube (major funk) and reassembly, I'd bumped the adjuster. I think extra light made it easier to determine when I was lined up, since pressure against the lever can make lineup a moving target. Did that, the brake lever and pedal. Pondering what to remove to be able to pack the shifter rod now. Thanks gents.

Good to hear you got it going. I'm to the point that I need all the extra light I can get and a magnifying glass

Bill Lumberg said:

...Pondering what to remove to be able to pack the shifter rod now. Thanks gents.

Click to expand...

The rod end bearings aren't the problem with the shifter, it is the pivot bolt for the whole shift assembly, pointed to in the bottom picture.

First you need to remove this:



Then you need to lube the indicated bolt which screws into the back of the foot peg assembly shown above. You will have to take out the pinch bolt and remove the shift linkage at the engine (upper left bolt and short shift arm).

Note the arrow pointing to a washer. This is a 'wave washer' which provides lateral thrust to keep the shifter linkage from having play. The FSM states some light torque value for the shifter bolt but it is often enough to completely flatten the wave washer and that will cause the shifter to slightly bind up and cause it not to return to center after shifting. Not returning completely will prevent shifting into gear without wiggling the shifter with your toe. This pivot is almost always the cause for shifting problems and will need periodic lubing along with the brake linkage pivot. The brake pivot needs maintenance frequently enough that some of the handy people on this Forum have drilled and installed a Zerk fitting.



The linkages will flip around as you work on the assembly, then it looks like it all has gone horribly wrong and won't go back together when you are done. TAKE PICTURES. In the end it isn't that hard, be observant, take notes if necessary.

Edit to add: The sift pivot bolt torque is 22 ft-lbs. Even though it is a shoulder bolt, it is possible for it to over tighten on the wave washer.

And the above post is another of many examples as to why this site is the best!

Ionbeam

Thanks for takin' the time to post that up. Youdabest.

Gary

darksider #44

Ionbeam - many thanks for this detailed post.

Lubing the shifter assy is on my radar now.