It’s time for an update on this project…
I have the Skene dimmer wired in to the lights and bike. I found space for it to mount on the upper fairing to the outside of the battery. All of the wiring will tuck into that side of the fairing. It would have been less runs of wire to put it on the left side, but my Starcom1 and associated cabling is all stored on that side of the bike behind the left turn signal.
I have fitted the Bluesea waterproof switches to the OE Grip controller opening in the “A” panel. Power for those switches is being pulled from the OE heated grip circuit. This is not the main power feed for the Skene, only the switching portion – basically the trigger circuit of the relay. The on/off switch is just the trigger – the Skene controller pulls main power from the battery via a fused link.
The switch bank works as such – the outer is the main on / off switch. This gives me the option of turning off the LEDRider lights all together. It draws power from the OE heated grip circuit, which is not energized until after the bike is started. The second switch is a on/off/on switch. When connected to the Skene controller’s yellow wire, it allows each switch position to set the light brightness at a different level. The yellow wire comes in to the center, one pole connects to ground, the other to a positive 12+ source. The Skene controller uses that input to cycle to three different brightness levels. I have the brightness set at 40, 60, & 80% right now. When I key the bike’s high beams, I get 100% brightness on theLED’s – there is a high beam bypass wire on the controller for that. I may have to cut the minimum down some – I don’t want to blind oncoming traffic.
I did a quick ride around the neighborhood last night. Everything seems to be functioning as designed – which means I managed to not screw up the wiring… I did a quick video with my point & shoot camera; this first video is not very good because the camera kept focusing on the windshield edge. I’ll get another one done with it out from behind the windshield in the next couple of days. When the video starts, you’ll see OE low beams, with stock bulbs. Then high beams (blue light reflection on the inside of the windshield). I went back to low beams and turned on the LR4’s. The Skene controller initials sets the lights at 10% output fo r3 seconds as a means of preventing battery drain at startup. You will see three flashes and then they go to my 40% setting. I cycle up to 60% and 80%, and then hit the high beam, putting the LR4’s at 100%.It’s time for an update on this project…I have the Skene dimmer wired in to the lights and bike. I found space for it to mount on the upper fairing to the outside of the battery. All of the wiring will tuck into that side of the fairing. It would have been less runs of wire to put it on the left side, but my Starcom1 and associated cabling is all stored on that side of the bike behind the left turn signal.
I have fitted the Bluesea waterproof switches to the OE Grip controller opening in the “A” panel. Power for those switches is being pulled from the OE heated grip circuit. This is not the main power feed for the Skene, only the switching portion – basically the trigger circuit of the relay. The on/off switch is just the trigger – the Skene controller pulls main power from the battery via a fused link.
The switch bank works as such – the outer is the main on / off switch. This gives me the option of turning off the LEDRider lights all together. It draws power from the OE heated grip circuit, which is not energized until after the bike is started. The second switch is a on/off/on switch. When connected to the Skene controller’s yellow wire, it allows each switch position to set the light brightness at a different level. The yellow wire comes in to the center, one pole connects to ground, the other to a positive 12+ source. The Skene controller uses that input to cycle to three different brightness levels. I have the brightness set at 40, 60, & 80% right now. When I key the bike’s high beams, I get 100% brightness on theLED’s – there is a high beam bypass wire on the controller for that. I may have to cut the minimum down some – I don’t want to blind oncoming traffic.
I did a quick ride around the neighborhood last night. Everything seems to be functioning as designed – which means I managed to not screw up the wiring… I did a quick video with my point & shoot camera; this first video is not very good because the camera kept focusing on the windshield edge. I’ll get another one done with it out from behind the windshield in the next couple of days. When the video starts, you’ll see OE low beams, with stock bulbs. Then high beams (blue light reflection on the inside of the windshield). I went back to low beams and turned on the LR4’s. The Skene controller initials sets the lights at 10% output fo r3 seconds as a means of preventing battery drain at startup. You will see three flashes and then they go to my 40% setting. I cycle up to 60% and 80%, and then hit the high beam, putting the LR4’s at 100%