Need help with Aux Light install problems.

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fjrpro

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I installed Ledrider LR4 Cree lights and the IQ-175 Skene intelligent controller and a simple on/off switch on my 06 ABS. I wired everything up when I had bike all apart. With just Battery power everything worked great. Of course since bike was not started bright light function was not checked. Ok with bike running the flights flicker real bad and I have no Bright light output lights go dim -OFF. I had mounted the IQ-175 near the coils....MAYBE EMF? Causing flickering. I will try moving it from that location. My question is ....has anyone had similar issues with these lights or controller? I used the Yellow wire on RH light bulb socket for the bright function tap. Is this not the Correct wire? No meter or wire print to double check. Any and all help is much appreciated. Go Denver!!!

 
I have the same controller - mine is wired through a power distribution block. There is no switch on mine it is on a switched circuit on the block. I am wondering about the ground connection that you used.

 
The Skene contains a trigger function so an extra on/off switch isn't needed. Make sure you fuse the hot to battery/12V source. I'd double check all the wiring and hook it up per the Skene wiring diagram. As for location, I installed mine with double-stick foam tape on the back side of the glove box on my previous GEN II.

I've got Skene's running with LR4s on the FJR and Tenere and they've been perfect.

Good luck!

--G

 
Thanks guys for ideas, I took a quick look after the game and I moved controller away from the coils. Boom.....Problem number one flickering solved. But still no aux lights when factory bar high berm switch moved to bright position. All wires were double checked and I made all connections with aircraft grade water proof splice butt connectors. I have a wired boat fuse block and Bosch relay installed. This supply's the power and it's even powering all my goodies with no issues for 6 years. I did ground the IQ 175 to the battery. The switch is used to give me three options for lights brightness per Skene instructions. With out the switch, you have bright 100% and user selected amount. I can't seem to locate my shop manual and I loaned out my meter but I assumed the Yellow wire on headlight socket was bright leg/tap. Could it be the green wire?

 
I recently helped a friend install a similar set up to what you describe, skene controller with a fuse block and 4 LR4 lights. The only way we could finally get it to work was to drop the idea of using a switch for the three brightness options. We ended up with just running the skene and the hi beam trigger so he has 2 brightness levels. I'm still not sure if the problem was in the skene wiring diagram or if he and I are just both imbeciles.

 
Chuck be set to add me to that list then lol. I'm thinking maybe because there is a additional circuit on the FJR ......like our lights don't come on until bike is started....this may be the cause of the issue. I am going to take out the switch control wire just to see if things do work as you described. Got to love Electrical troubleshooting.

 
What had me scratching my head was the wiring diagram we had for the Skene controller. For the life of me I couldn't understand what actually supplied power into the switch. Once we took the switch out of the circuit we got everything else to work. Coworker went back later and wired the switch into the power wire to act as a simple on/off switch so he can at least turn off his aux lights if he wants to. The controller is set for 40% power with the low beams and full power triggered off the high beam. Works fine like that and he's content.

 
I have this exact set up on my '09 (LR4's with Skeene controller and three way switch).

I will go look at what I used for the high beam by-pass trigger wire at the headlight.

I have mine set up with a master on/off switch - so I can shut them completely off if needed; then I have a three position switch to give me the 3 programmable brightness / power levels. That switch is wired on one side to a 12v + source, a 12v -neg/ground source on the other pole. The first position gives me 10% power (can run at that setting all the time, day or night, and not blind oncoming or followed traffic), second is set for 30%, the third is set to 60%, and then when I hit the bike high beam, I get 100%.

My Skeene is mounted on the outboard side of the battery, in the fairing.

Sounds like you have the wrong high beam wire tapped as your trigger - I'll take a look and post later tonight.

Wayne

Edit: found my post on these, here is the text - I started with the Skene programmed for 40%, 60%, & 80%, but have changed that. I remember now - the Skene IS the relay - you're on / off switch should not go through a relay. The main feed to the controller can, if you want to ensure power is cut with ignition.

Hope this helps...

It’s time for an update on this project…

I have the Skene dimmer wired in to the lights and bike. I found space for it to mount on the upper fairing to the outside of the battery. All of the wiring will tuck into that side of the fairing. It would have been less runs of wire to put it on the left side, but my Starcom1 and associated cabling is all stored on that side of the bike behind the left turn signal.

I have fitted the Bluesea waterproof switches to the OE Grip controller opening in the “A” panel. Power for those switches is being pulled from the OE heated grip circuit. This is not the main power feed for the Skene, only the switching portion – basically the trigger circuit of the relay. The on/off switch is just the trigger – the Skene controller pulls main power from the battery via a fused link.

The switch bank works as such – the outer is the main on / off switch. This gives me the option of turning off the LEDRider lights all together. It draws power from the OE heated grip circuit, which is not energized until after the bike is started. The second switch is a on/off/on switch. When connected to the Skene controller’s yellow wire, it allows each switch position to set the light brightness at a different level. The yellow wire comes in to the center, one pole connects to ground, the other to a positive 12+ source. The Skene controller uses that input to cycle to three different brightness levels. I have the brightness set at 40, 60, & 80% right now. When I key the bike’s high beams, I get 100% brightness on theLED’s – there is a high beam bypass wire on the controller for that. I may have to cut the minimum down some – I don’t want to blind oncoming traffic.

I did a quick ride around the neighborhood last night. Everything seems to be functioning as designed – which means I managed to not screw up the wiring… I did a quick video with my point & shoot camera; this first video is not very good because the camera kept focusing on the windshield edge. I’ll get another one done with it out from behind the windshield in the next couple of days. When the video starts, you’ll see OE low beams, with stock bulbs. Then high beams (blue light reflection on the inside of the windshield). I went back to low beams and turned on the LR4’s. The Skene controller initials sets the lights at 10% output fo r3 seconds as a means of preventing battery drain at startup. You will see three flashes and then they go to my 40% setting. I cycle up to 60% and 80%, and then hit the high beam, putting the LR4’s at 100%.It’s time for an update on this project…I have the Skene dimmer wired in to the lights and bike. I found space for it to mount on the upper fairing to the outside of the battery. All of the wiring will tuck into that side of the fairing. It would have been less runs of wire to put it on the left side, but my Starcom1 and associated cabling is all stored on that side of the bike behind the left turn signal.

I have fitted the Bluesea waterproof switches to the OE Grip controller opening in the “A” panel. Power for those switches is being pulled from the OE heated grip circuit. This is not the main power feed for the Skene, only the switching portion – basically the trigger circuit of the relay. The on/off switch is just the trigger – the Skene controller pulls main power from the battery via a fused link.

The switch bank works as such – the outer is the main on / off switch. This gives me the option of turning off the LEDRider lights all together. It draws power from the OE heated grip circuit, which is not energized until after the bike is started. The second switch is a on/off/on switch. When connected to the Skene controller’s yellow wire, it allows each switch position to set the light brightness at a different level. The yellow wire comes in to the center, one pole connects to ground, the other to a positive 12+ source. The Skene controller uses that input to cycle to three different brightness levels. I have the brightness set at 40, 60, & 80% right now. When I key the bike’s high beams, I get 100% brightness on theLED’s – there is a high beam bypass wire on the controller for that. I may have to cut the minimum down some – I don’t want to blind oncoming traffic.

I did a quick ride around the neighborhood last night. Everything seems to be functioning as designed – which means I managed to not screw up the wiring… I did a quick video with my point & shoot camera; this first video is not very good because the camera kept focusing on the windshield edge. I’ll get another one done with it out from behind the windshield in the next couple of days. When the video starts, you’ll see OE low beams, with stock bulbs. Then high beams (blue light reflection on the inside of the windshield). I went back to low beams and turned on the LR4’s. The Skene controller initials sets the lights at 10% output fo r3 seconds as a means of preventing battery drain at startup. You will see three flashes and then they go to my 40% setting. I cycle up to 60% and 80%, and then hit the high beam, putting the LR4’s at 100%
.

 
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Much appreciate all this help. Really has me stumped as to why my setup....simple as it is, is not working.

 
Chuck be set to add me to that list then lol. I'm thinking maybe because there is a additional circuit on the FJR ......like our lights don't come on until bike is started....this may be the cause of the issue. I am going to take out the switch control wire just to see if things do work as you described. Got to love Electrical troubleshooting.
BINGO ! The headlights do not come on until the bike is running. If you want the lights to be on with the engine off, you need to start the bike and then kill the engine with the kill switch while leaving the ignition switch on.

 
Harold yes tried that function. I get no aux lights when I do that and switch to high beam.

 
For another data point, I also installed the three-postion toggle on my Tenere for different light levels + 100% high beam trigger. No issues with function.

On the FJR, I didn't install the toggle so I just taped up the yellow wire on the Skene. If memory serves, I used the bike yellow wire to Skene white for the high beam trigger. Since I installed the FJRs controller on the left side, I used the glove box soleniod for the Skene (red) switched power.

Did you separate the LR4 ground(s) to blue Skene wires per the diagram?

--G

 
Did not have a chance to try a few things today, but yes blue wires are connected to neg feeds from aux lights. The only ground is black wires from the IQ-175 and that was connected to batt ground. Tomorrow I will try a few things. A) try new ground position. B) disconnect toggle switch ...yellow wire on IQ and see if brights work. C) finally I will temporally run a separate power wire direct from the batt ...fused and rule out that the relay and my fuse power block are not causing any issues. I have not posted in a long time....on the forum but as always the help and ideas provided are the reason I always read and visit. Many thanks. Steve

 
Ok problem solved!! Somehow the Controller would not get out of fog light mode. Emailed Skene the manufacture and after many try's IT WORKS...sorry I'm excited. If you find yourself having same issue, follow the verbiage in the instructions for getting out of Fog light mode. Very happy with my set up and with 15% discount on the Led-riders Lr4's it's a home run!! Thank you to all who helped me work this thorough.

 
Glad you got it sorted out!

Enjoy the Skene/LR4 combo. They do a great job at night filling in low beams or reaching down the road on high.

--G

 
Ok problem solved!! Somehow the Controller would not get out of fog light mode. Emailed Skene the manufacture and after many try's IT WORKS...sorry I'm excited. If you find yourself having same issue, follow the verbiage in the instructions for getting out of Fog light mode. Very happy with my set up and with 15% discount on the Led-riders Lr4's it's a home run!! Thank you to all who helped me work this thorough.
I think I have a similar problem. LR4 work fine with headlight on normal. They go to 100% when I hit the flash to pass but turn off when I hit hi beams. I have tried disabling the Fog light mode (hi beam switch on/ start bike/ ground yellow 2x before 5 seconds). I have tried this a dozen times without any luck. I have high beam tied into the (bike) yellow wire and for the trigger wire I am using the blue headlight wire to so that the LED doesn't fire until after the bike starts.

Any suggestions???

 
I don't see an edit function but above it should reference that I used the GREEN headlight wire for a trigger wire...and there was the problem.

Obviously the Skene does not like the Green headlight wire for trigger. High beams go on and the low beam turn off so the unit thinks its off. I don't know where my brain was. I knew I needed to tap in the hi beam and I just thought "headlights go on with the bike so that is a good switched trigger"'

I moved the trigger wire to the glovebox power everything works fine.

 
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