Rear brake caliper retaining bolts

These have never been removed on my '04. Are they likely to be frozen if I try to remove them?

Should I apply some penetrating oil and let it work overnight before making an attempt?

If your bike has been garaged and not out in the weather much, they are not likely to be difficult to remove. If it were me, I might put penetrating oil on if I were changing the pads, probably not if not. I strongly suspect that with a 6-point socket and a breaker bar they will loosen right up.

in my 2007, I had change the pads on january. Bolt had 8 years, and around 54100 milles. it's came just with conviction... and a good key.
it's a 13 bolt if I have a good memory, brakes net.
But if you yas time, you can used penetrating oil, it's always better.
don't forgot to put little grease on blot when you install the bolt (to avoid electrolysis between steel and aluminum)

If you have the time to put a little liquid wrench on the night before that will only help but should be necessary. Six Point closed end wrench and a hammer. Moderately tapping the wrench works wonders. It is also less likely to twist off of the head than a socket when you are really putting force to it. It should pop right out with a little love.

I agree with a little grease on the bolt to stop seizing.

Anti Seize vice grease when you reinstall.

Just curious, could assembly lube be used?

Bolts came out easily without penetrating oil. There was no obvious corrosion so I just used a six point socket, a short extension and ratchet, and a claw hammer. Whacked the ratchet handle with the hammer and each bolt broke loose easily.

There was a nice coating of grease on the bolts after 12+ years. The rubber boots obviously seal quite well. The factory techs do lube some components generously.

Both pads were worn equally. ~ 80% of pads remaining after 12+ years. I don't use the rear brake much and never aggressively. Poor riding technique I suppose. Good thing I don't have the system where the brake pedal activates 1/4 of the front brakes.

Is this type of caliper a lot cheaper than ones with pistons on both sides of the discs? All my cars use one piston calipers.

Hard not to get grease on the threads in the caliper since the greased bolt must be inserted through the threaded hole in the caliper.

Constant Mesh said:

..... Good thing I don't have the system where the brake pedal activates 1/4 of the front brakes....

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Makes no difference to the available braking using just the front brake lever, you can easily activate the ABS of the front brakes on a dry road with just the front lever. All the linking does is provide a little braking to the front when you apply a moderate amount of rear brake.

Constant Mesh said:

...Hard not to get grease on the threads in the caliper since the greased bolt must be inserted through the threaded hole in the caliper.

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Use a grease designed for brakes and the like, I use a copper loaded grease that is apparently impervious to heat melting.

yes copper grease for the rear of the pads, to avoid all noise, and silicone grease on the tread of the bolt (it's hydrophobic)

Not saying silicone grease is in any way wrong, but I use the copper-loaded grease on almost every thread I do up on the bike, including the brake bolts. It acts as anti-seize, prevents corrosion, doesn't attract dirt (although it is, itself, "dirty"), doesn't run anywhere.

due to salt water in the winter, I use a few years, a grease that is hydrophobic. I had 4 years ago the case where salt water had put off lithium grease that I had put on the brake bolts, and an electrolyse happened between the bracket and bolt. Since I was advised to use for all screws to the bottom of the bike (or car) from the silicone grease.

After for brake pads, I actually uses the copper grease (who resiste at high temperatur), and for the axes of lithium grease.
If the place where you drive has no period or lots of salt on the road, the use of silicone grease has no interest

gapiob said:

due to salt water in the winter, I use a few years, a grease that is hydrophobic. I had 4 years ago the case where salt water had put off lithium grease that I had put on the brake bolts, and an electrolyse happened between the bracket and bolt. Since I was advised to use for all screws to the bottom of the bike (or car) from the silicone grease.After for brake pads, I actually uses the copper grease (who resiste at high temperatur), and for the axes of lithium grease.

If the place where you drive has no period or lots of salt on the road, the use of silicone grease has no interest

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I ride through lots of salt in the winter, but I don't get significant corrosion. I'm not saying you are wrong, just my experience.

Yes, Y see you are from Derby, (I go Manchester this week end). So indeed salt is in your habit... you have the same wite road than us .

What surprised me when I had the problem was that the bike was nikel, there was no trace anywhere. And, on the 4 screws to remove the front calipers, just one was welded. And considering the price of the caliper (I was forced to change it), now I am very attentive to that.
Also I systematically dismantled once a year to clean them, I think now I'm afraid that his re-happens to me ... even if it is very rare after my mechanic

gapiob said:

Yes, Y see you are from Derby, (I go Manchester this week end). So indeed salt is in your habit... you have the same wite road than us .What surprised me when I had the problem was that the bike was nikel, there was no trace anywhere. And, on the 4 screws to remove the front calipers, just one was welded. And considering the price of the caliper (I was forced to change it), now I am very attentive to that.

Also I systematically dismantled once a year to clean them, I think now I'm afraid that his re-happens to me ... even if it is very rare after my mechanic

Click to expand...

I once had a front brake pad retaining bolt seize, it was the first time I had tried to remove it some three years after I had the bike. Now, like you, I "exercise" them occasionally, as I do the ABS wheel sensors, these are also prone to seizing.
Ps. Don't forget to ride on the left (monter sur la gauche) .

Yes, it's better to ride in left. Thanks for the remember. But, it'will be easy, I Will rentre a car!

Doing winter maintenance and I just stripped the threads in the rear caliper (just the lower mount).

There does not look to be any lateral pressure on the slider pin/bolt. I'm tempted to just JB weld it in there. As long as it can't back out I don't see an issue. The threads in the upper mount threads \are still perfect.

The only other solution I can see is to use a Helicoil or time sert.

Canadian FJR

If were me, I would definitely Helicoil over JB weld.

The Heli coil is easy enough to install and is stronger than what you had.

JB weld is good stuff but I wouldn't trust my life to it....

IMO, just fix it right the first time..