Are OEM brake pads beveled?

I was giving my brakes a good cleaning today and after I had everything ready to be reinstalled, I noticed that the leading edge of the front brake pads was flat. On my 2008 R1, the OEM pads had a slight bevel on them to make it easier to slip the pads over the disc when installing the caliper. I noticed that the pads in my 2008 FJR don't have this bevel. They are Nissin pads, so are they OEM? I wonder why the FJR pads don't have this handy bevel.

Mad German said:

I was giving my brakes a good cleaning today and after I had everything ready to be reinstalled, I noticed that the leading edge of the front brake pads was flat. On my 2008 R1, the OEM pads had a slight bevel on them to make it easier to slip the pads over the disc when installing the caliper. I noticed that the pads in my 2008 FJR don't have this bevel. They are Nissin pads, so are they OEM? I wonder why the FJR pads don't have this handy bevel.

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No bevel. OEM brakes are Nissan. Push the pistons back in the caliper, it will go in. If you are worried about marking the wheel, stick some tape on the rim.

Usually easier to install the caliper without the pads, then fit the pads when everything is buttoned up...........

There is a hose clamp above the calipers held by a small bolt (8 mm socket). I see a few who do not remove this bolt. If you do, you gain a little more hose slack, the calipers can be removed and installed significantly easier. Before you remove the calipers, I twist them a bit on the rotors to push the pads/pistons in a bit...........

^^^

Me too! Removing the hose clamp makes a big difference in getting the caliper back on without chewing up the rim.

I use the same technique Ray describes to push the pads back but I don't know if it is really a good idea or not. Always afraid of warping rotor or scoring the surface of the pads (although the latter shouldn't hurt anything). It is easier than finding a suitable wood or plastic lever to move the pistons after removing the caliper. I guess it hasn't hurt anything yet - original rotors still OK after 9 years and many miles. (Should check them for thickness some day)

U guys don't use a flathead screwdriver or a small wrench to open your calipers?

It's better with photo .

So to change the front brake pads, you are two solutions:

The first without removing the caliper, if the pistons are not dirty.
Push the pistons of each wafer, either with the finger or with a screwdriver by putting it on the attachment of the wafer.



Then remove the two retaining pins (item 2 on picture) with an Allen key.
Beware the pads will drag themselves.



You can remove noise components (I think it's called that), that lie just above the pads.



Once removed.



Clean the support rods. I have cleaned fine sandpaper and WD40.
The Dirty Version.



Then hand over the new pads, the pad to the disc, anti noise component and the holding rod.
I just shook my hand.
Do the same for the other bracket.
Do not be surprised by the different size of pistons on the caliper to the right is the one that makes the front / rear coupling.

IMPORTANT:
After all reassembled, actuate several times the lever and the brake pedal before driving.

Second solution by removing the caliper pistons to clean.
Remove the bolts (item 1 on the picture), 12. Key to remove the bracket to tilt towards you. You have to play around with because it is not easy to get out.



Removing the pads without pushing the pistons by the first method.
Clean pistons. push the hand or with the help of an old plate.
Then I put the new pads, and handed the bracket in place. A bit of a chore to be submitted with the pads, I think without putting the pads is a little simpler.

IMPORTANT:
After all reassembled repeatedly actuate the lever and the brake pedal before driving.

Thank you for the replies everyone. I appreciate it very much. By the way, what is the purpose of those little brass pad "springs"? Years ago, when I had my 2001 R1, the shop checked my pads once while it was in for service. However, they forgot to put those little brass springs back in. I rode the bike like that for about 20,000 miles before I noticed they were gone.

Are those little things really that important, or are they more of "eh, if you have them, fine. If not, fine too." kind of part?

First off, they are not brass, and are a spring steel material. They act to keep the pads from chattering or rattling.. and don't lose one, they are not cheap ($27-ish)! I also recommend anyone going to pry on the pads from that side of the caliper be careful not to bend those springs.

in French, the spring are called anti noise plate.
They help keep the pads in place, their leave minimal room to move, and absorb some of the noise of friction by limiting vibrations (in the bracket)

RaYzerman19 said:

First off, they are not brass, and are a spring steel material. They act to keep the pads from chattering or rattling.. and don't lose one, they are not cheap ($27-ish)! I also recommend anyone going to pry on the pads from that side of the caliper be careful not to bend those springs.

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Interesting to note that the FSM says to replace brake pads and springs as a set. I'm on my third set of front brake pads with the original springs. Not saying its a good idea but they aren't exactly wear items. Maybe they get brittle with heat cycling after some time...?

I'd think they'd have to get a lot hotter than normal brake temperatures to affect the metal properties.... I've never replaced those springs on any bike I've had, nor have I seen any noticeable change in those springs on the FJR.........

idem, I just clean it at least once a year, but normaly once befor and once after winter, and salt road...

I noticed that when I had my 2001 R1, the brake drag was MUCH less with them removed. I ride for about 15,000 miles without them, with no negative effects. The calipers on my track bike had no provisions to even mount these types of springs. I was just curious just how effective they really are and if they really make a difference.

Thanks again for the replies. You guys are a true treasure trove of knowledge! I'm glad to be a part of this forum.

Those springs were replaced by the garage when I had my overheating brake event, luckily for me Yamaha picked up the tab.

Normally I'd never change them unless they showed signs of deteriation, I don't consider them vital to the brake's operation.

mcatrophy said:

I don't consider them vital to the brake's operation.

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I agree. I don't think they are vital to the proper operation of the braking system either. Yes, they might suppress a rattle or two, but I'd never hear it between my helmet, earplugs, motor sound, etc. I guess that's why I never missed them for about 15,000 miles when I rode without them on my R1, haha.