drilling small holes in the clutch basket?

to improve oil flow on clutch inner plates....and forget borings clutch soak

It just isn't that big of a problem!! A few people have needed a clutch clean and soak. Very few have needed more than one. My clutch is working very well after many miles.

I wouldn't consider messing with something that really doesn't need to be fixed. (Unless, of course, you are an expert automotive engineer with specific experience with hydrodynamics related to oil flow and intimate knowledge of the workings and requirements of mechanical wet clutches.)

Its Friday!!!

my last clutch soak last less than 2000 km I'm tired of it.I don't understand why Yamaha design a wet clutch with a closed outer basket that don't permit oil to flow inside

Have you tried adjusting the clutch lever? When you adjust the lever you should nitice the distance it takes to engage the piston. Have you blead the lines to see if that improves it?

Good luck,

Dave

yes clutch circuit is bleeded and the lever is position #1.usually when I feel gears are more harder to switch is time for a new clutch soak.

If I find a used clutch basket on ebay I will try to drill some holes on it..

Drilling holes in the basket will weaken the structural integrity of the part.

I would rather deal with a clutch cleaning and oiling (no real need to soak anything) than risk a clutch that fragments and destroys the engine.

Besides, there are already plenty of holes in the sides of the basket to get the plates oil. The problem is there is not much oil up there where the clutch is.

an aftermarket clutch basket more "open" isn't available?

1) It isn't really a problem for the vast majority of FJR users.

2) You are not likely to find an aftermarket solution for this.

3) Why do you ask the question if you are not listening to the replies you have received?

4) Buy a used clutch basket, drill your holes and report back to the forum about the level of success. Perhaps it will become the newest FJR modification for everyone to use.

(Thinking that the Trooper exhaust mod, Barbarian Jumper mod, coolant change "blowjob", and various ways of butchering the airbox are similar solutions to FJR "problems") Good luck!

To "improve" the oil flow into the clutch you would have to redesign the engine's oiling system. It simply doesn't throw much oil into the clutch.

Switch to a full synthetic oil. Once I did it made a noticeable difference in shifting and I can tell when it needs a change when the shifting changes. On major services that need an oil swap as part of the job, I can tell if a mechanic failed to use full synthetic before getting out of their parking lot.

wfooshee said:

To "improve" the oil flow into the clutch you would have to redesign the engine's oiling system. It simply doesn't throw much oil into the clutch.

Click to expand...

yes because if you look at the clutch basket only the two outer plates (the more near to you) are lubrificated by the crankshat splashing, the rest of the plates are covered by the basket itself...impossible for oil to be delivered on them

Bounce said:

Switch to a full synthetic oil. Once I did it made a noticeable difference in shifting and I can tell when it needs a change when the shifting changes. On major services that need an oil swap as part of the job, I can tell if a mechanic failed to use full synthetic before getting out of their parking lot.

Click to expand...

I'm using Bardahl XTC C60 don't know if is FULL synthetic or only synthetic...

When I got my 07 it made a big clunk going into 1st on cold start, it was actually so bad that I could not start the bike with the clutch lever pulled in and in gear when it was cold out.

I took it in for service within the first couple of thousand mile's, I read here on the form about the clutch soak and told the dealer about it. The dealer said I or this forum didn't know what we were talking about! They finally soaked the plates but It took a week to get the service rep to tell them to soak the plates and another week to get the gasket.

All has been good since, I have been using Shell Rorella T6 since new and now have 92,000 plus miles.

I only tell you the story as I have never heard anyone having to soak the clutch plates more than once. Maybe try a different oil? Can't hurt.

I found that when I switched to Rotella T6 Synthetic lubricant that it made shifting much quieter and smoother. I resolve the 1st gear clunk by disengaging and engaging the clutch several times during the 1 - 2 minutes it takes to back out of my garage and make a final check of turn signals, mirrors, jacket zippers and helmet strap. Cycling the clutch several times ( 5 - 6 times ) normally results in a quiet Netrual to 1st gear shift. When temperatures are close to 40 F or 5 Centigrade I will cycle the clutch a few more times.

First gear clunk solution when cold is to start the bike in first with the clutch lever pulled in. No clunk, release lever and go. I believe the numbers work backwards on the lever. you may want to have it in #5 which is why I mentioned to check the engagement on both ends to make sure. I am not sitting on my bike right now so I can't give you a definite answer.

Dave

starting the bike in first gear is not a solution.Any other switching to other gears suffers of completely not disengaging..that's why sometimes u must rebuilt FJR transimssion...gear dog ecc ecc

My friend has a 05 and he did this job the last month.He didn't noticed any improvement!Waste of time..Perhaps the centrifugal power throws again the oil out through these holes.

I vote do it.

I don't see what it could hurt.

Just make sure you don't upset the balance. [friday]Balancing beads probably won't help here.[/friday]