Audiovox install

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xlauto

xlauto

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I am having a difficult time getting my newly installed Audiovox CCS-100 to engage on my 2008. 

With the ignition on and the CC on, the LED light in the actuator lights up when I hit Set, Resume and depress the brake lever so it appears that all electrical has been hooked up correctly. When I start the bike the LED light flashes and as I increase the RPM, the light flashes more continuous. The DIP switches are set 1&7 'on, 2-6 'off'. I also tried with the DIP switch 4 'on' as different people posting seem to have different ideas. I contacted Audiovox but the tech wouldn't provide me with any information because I am putting it on a bike but he did say 1&7 on, 2-6 off. I read somewhere (can't find it now) that a jumper wire in the actuator needs to be removed. Is this correct as no one has said this in their install instructions that I have read.

I hooked up the vacuum to three ports. (no check valves and without using my homemade canister until I get this working).
I was unsure whether I needed a relay for the purple wire that connects to the rear brake light so I just grounded this wire (straight to the battery) but it doesn't make a difference.

The throttle chain is just taught at idle so there is no play and the actuator cable is wound around the engine compartment so there are no kinks. I installed the actuator on top of the engine in front of the coolant tube.

Each time I set something up differently, I went for a test ride at various speeds (30-70 mph) but to no avail. 

I have an AE with the electronic clutch. Does this make a difference? If so, what is the difference in installation? If the AE does not have different installation procedures, does anyone have any insight on my problem.

HELP! Getting frustrated!
 
Last question first, no problem getting mine to engage on my '10 AS (the UK YCC-S).

Are you using any real speed input or just the coil connection? If just the coil, switches 1 and 4 should be on, all the others off.

I don't like your vacuum arrangement, can't tell you whether that would affect engagement, but I think you do really need check valves. My installation used a reservoir (as supplied as an extra with the Audiovox kit), no problems.

For what it's worth, I wrote up my installation here.

 
I am having a difficult time getting my newly installed Audiovox CCS-100 to engage...The DIP switches are set 1&7 'on, 2-6 'off'. I also tried with the DIP switch 4 'on' ...1&7 on, 2-6 off. I read somewhere (can't find it now) that a jumper wire in the actuator needs to be removed...I hooked up the vacuum to three ports. (no check valves and without using my homemade canister until I get this working). I was unsure whether I needed a relay for the purple wire that connects to the rear brake light so I just grounded this wire (straight to the battery) but it doesn't make a difference...
Click to expand...
There is a jumper, it will look like a small black plastic rectangular block, it needs to be pulled off and rotated 90 degrees so it only sits on just one pin. This tells the servo the vehicle has a manual transmission. The jumper is typically near the diagnostic LED.

As mcatrophy says, switch 4 should be ON, it will effect driveability but won't effect engage/disengage. Setting switch 4 to ON tells the servo that you have a light weight, high horsepower vehicle.

Switch 7 should be OFF, the coils are fired by the ECU and not breaker points. When switch 7 is OFF the servo looks for a relatively clean switched signal, when switch is ON the servo uses filtering for very dirty breaker point signals. For some reason the AVCC does not like the Gen II with switch 7 ON. This won't effect initial cruse engagement but it will prevent the cruise control from dropping out unexpectedly and then not wanting to engage again.

Simply for diagnostics you can ground the purple wire but it would be best to ground it to the battery and not the chassis (as you say you have done). Most Gen II AVCC installs need a relay for the brake circuit. This will effect the engaging of the AVCC.

As soon as your install works you really need use check valves and a vacuum reservoir. If you are going to be riding your FJR in the mean time you should cap the throttle body sync ports and don't leave them connected together via vacuum lines.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Okay, I have changed the DIP switch setting as indicated above to 1&4 'on', remaining switches 'off'. For some reason the jumper (little black box) in the actuator wasn't there so I guess that was not the problem. The two pins are exposed which is located right beside the LED light.

I have installed the check valves, a three port check valve for the homemade canister and one of the vacuum draws and a two port check valve for the other vacuum draw. I am only working off of two vacuum draws now. I pulled one of the draws off and checked vacuum pressure. At idle I am drawing about 44 kPa of vacuum pressure. When I shut the bike off, the pressure stays constant so I am not losing pressure in the system.

I am still not having any luck. It will not engage.

I am leaving the purple wire attached to the battery ground for now until I can get the CC engaging.

 
Does anyone have anything else to add?

I guess my next step will be to purchase another actuator. I see Murphy sells the actuator on its own for $80. Does anyone else sell the actuator on it's own?

 
Have you tested vacuum to the actuator itself to verify there is not a hole in the diaphram? You may have, it just wasn't clear to me. On my AVCC install I only used one vacuum source and it worked fine for 7 years... if you want to simplify your install and eliminate another potential source of vacuum leak/check valve issue........

 
Last edited by a moderator:

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